I've been researching lifts and have decided to go with an AEV premium 3.5 lift and 35" tires on a 2010 JK Unlimited Rubicon. I have read the FAQs section and others who state the front driveshaft needs to be replaced because the boot will rub and eventually fail. When speaking with my installer (highly recommended company on this forum) they stated the Rubicon model would not require the driveshaft change unless serious off roading where it could catch/tear on trail debris (rocks, stumps, etc)
Any thoughts? Not sure which way to go on this one.

 

I have a Rubicon with 3" lift, auto trans, ruined my stock drive shaft. Shaft rubs the tranny pan when sway bar is disconnected. This is how the boot gets torn. Also CV joint boot torn with loss of grease. Drive shaft fail!

 

So as long as I don't disconnect the swaybars you should be able to run the factory ds until i can afford an upgrade?

 

If I don't disconnect the sway bar is it still a problem?
I'm sure it's cheaper to replace now rather than later but if I can manage it for a little while by not disconnecting the sway bar, maybe I can delay the $.
Thanks for the info

 

Sorry, I know that was a big factor...
auto transmission

Trails
Light trail use plus sand, mud, and water. Nothing too heavy at this time.

 

I'm running an 08 rubi with 4" rough country lift, and stock drive shaft. Just make sure ya put spacers between your frame and your skid plate, you only need spacers on the front bolts of the skid plate. You probably won't get into the skid plate without spacers, until ya break your sway bar loose. that was the only problem i had. It will leave a nasty little grove in the drive shaft when it hits. I have read there is a possibility the factory shaft can get into the transmission pan of an automatic, when the jeep is lifted. I have articulated in both directions with the tires crammed into the flares and the tire completely out of the wheel well. I haven't heard any contact nor have I had any signs of contact so far. But I've only crawled a few blacks. You may want to check with the real crawlers and see what they say. if your going to that extreme, there is a possibility you may need to change. Hope this helps
Scratch that statement about not getting into the tranny pan. I did hit the pan,and nocked the front retainer off the boot. but did not tear the boot. So I would have to say that "talk" I mentioned is fact. I'm going to leave the reainer off and secure the boot with tie wire. Where they crimped the retainer tight is where it hit the pan. Hope fully this tie wire will lay close enough to the shaft it will provide enough clearance. Sorry for the bad information there.

 

^your skidplate doesnt need spacers.... the DS hits the tranny pan.

 

That is what I understand the problem to be.
The driveshaft hits the transmission pan due to the new angle and the size/location of the driveshaft boot.
I just didn't know if the rubicon was somehow different in that respect.
Thanks

 

No, the rubicon is no different than the other models regarding the driveshafts.


There are 3 issues with the front driveshaft:

The edge of the crossmember/skid can contact the driveshaft. This makes sone neat scrape marks, but does not appear to cause the shaft to fail. Trim and/or lower the skid.

The big boot in the middle of the shaft can contact the corner of the tranny pan. This can tear the boot and cause the loss of grease. Not a huge deal, since all if covers is the slip joint where the two halves of the driveshaft slide in and out. Keep it greased and you can continue driving. (you could also pull the metal band off and replace it with a zip tie. The larger screw on the band can catch the tranny even if the boot does not). The big problem here isn't the shaft itself, but you can bash in the tranny pan and cause damage there.
-This is also not an issue with manuals, but, the front driveshaft on manuals can contact the exhaust and bash it in.

Due to the new driveshaft angles caused by the lift, the joint at the tcase end of the shaft will be 'pinched' and will eventually wear through that boot. Disconnecting, longer travel shocks, etc will speed this process. Make a habit of crawling underneath to check for grease spitting out of this joint. It is easy to see, as there will be a ring of grease splattered on the undercarriage above the joint. When it loses enough grease, the joint will dry out, start making noise, and finally seize. If you are on the freeway at the time, be sure to post pics for us. This joint is not repairable, so you will need to replace the entire driveshaft. (some have indicated that they had success with using a small needle adapter to keep it greased for a while).

 

After market drive shaft diameter is smaller then stock shaft. This is what keeps it from rubbing the transmission pan. I also have notched my trans skid plate/cross member with a grinder to give the shaft more room in this area.