Relocate or beef up front end to avoid rock carnage. What did you do?
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 382
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From: San Francisco, CA
Relocate or beef up front end to avoid rock carnage. What did you do?
**Front end discussion only**
Solid front diff is still very new to me, I am used to have a full skid plate in front that covers all of the major components.
The major components that I can see with solid axle which are prone to the carnage and can leave you stranded on the trail:
1. Front trackbar.
Can it be relocated? If so is it really out of the harm's way?
Can it be protected by some skid plates?
Install beef up bar. Will a good beef up bar like TF really take the direct hit from the rock on the trail?
2. Steering bar.
Relocate it. There are couple of options to do that. Is this the only and best way to protect it?
3. Sway bar
This is not really a big deal, I think, even if I bent my sway bar I should still be able to drive back home (maybe just not as fast
4. Diff itself
This one easy to fix - install beefy diff cover or skid plate.
5. Front arms.
There are skid plates for the arms.
However, arms seem to be well build with good thick metal, do you really need any protection on it?
Anything else from the drivetrain I am forgetting about (oil pan is a whole different conversation and there are few skids available) ?
Solid front diff is still very new to me, I am used to have a full skid plate in front that covers all of the major components.
The major components that I can see with solid axle which are prone to the carnage and can leave you stranded on the trail:
1. Front trackbar.
Can it be relocated? If so is it really out of the harm's way?
Can it be protected by some skid plates?
Install beef up bar. Will a good beef up bar like TF really take the direct hit from the rock on the trail?
2. Steering bar.
Relocate it. There are couple of options to do that. Is this the only and best way to protect it?
3. Sway bar
This is not really a big deal, I think, even if I bent my sway bar I should still be able to drive back home (maybe just not as fast
4. Diff itself
This one easy to fix - install beefy diff cover or skid plate.
5. Front arms.
There are skid plates for the arms.
However, arms seem to be well build with good thick metal, do you really need any protection on it?
Anything else from the drivetrain I am forgetting about (oil pan is a whole different conversation and there are few skids available) ?
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 382
Likes: 0
From: San Francisco, CA
Reid high steer knuckles and a drag link flip will raise both the tie rod and drag link. Make a new bracket and move the steering stabilizer to the top of the tie bar.
Sway bar (get quick disconnects) and track bars should be out of harms way.
Pick one of several diff covers anything should be better then the factory. Watch the video of the arb cover it is impressive.
Lower control arms will get scraped if you play in the rocks, the skids will help the mounts from getting too chewed up.
Relocate or skid the evap canister and look at a skid for the oil pan.
Make sure your brake lines are secure but allow for full flex.
Sway bar (get quick disconnects) and track bars should be out of harms way.
Pick one of several diff covers anything should be better then the factory. Watch the video of the arb cover it is impressive.
Lower control arms will get scraped if you play in the rocks, the skids will help the mounts from getting too chewed up.
Relocate or skid the evap canister and look at a skid for the oil pan.
Make sure your brake lines are secure but allow for full flex.
Can you elaborate on your first sentence "Reid high steer knuckles and a drag link flip will raise both the tie rod and drag link. Make a new bracket and move the steering stabilizer to the top of the tie bar."
JK Freak
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 548
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From: las vegas, nv.
off road only tie rod. it's straight and 1.5" above stock.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...ter-Tube-Seals
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...ter-Tube-Seals
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 382
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From: San Francisco, CA
Would getting beefier track bar help? Who can attend to the good track bar that was truly tested on the rocks?
JK Jedi Master
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JK Freak
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Deadwood, sd
My Solution
Ok, great thread with some great suggestions. I took on this challenge a few months back and here was my solution. With the exception of going the PR44 route I beefed up my front D44 as much as I could. I added Reid knuckles, TF drag link flip and frame brace, TF Monster Trackbar, Currie Tie rod, TF C-Gussets, EVO Magnum 44 inner sleeves, Dynatrac ball joints, ARB Diff cover, RCV axles, and the PSC extreme hydro assist setup. I think it is as bullett proof as I could get without going to a PR44 or D60 setup. When my current stuff breaks, I will go PR44.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 382
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From: San Francisco, CA
Ok, great thread with some great suggestions. I took on this challenge a few months back and here was my solution. With the exception of going the PR44 route I beefed up my front D44 as much as I could. I added Reid knuckles, TF drag link flip and frame brace, TF Monster Trackbar, Currie Tie rod, TF C-Gussets, EVO Magnum 44 inner sleeves, Dynatrac ball joints, ARB Diff cover, RCV axles, and the PSC extreme hydro assist setup. I think it is as bullett proof as I could get without going to a PR44 or D60 setup. When my current stuff breaks, I will go PR44.