Hi guys, I need some advice regarding my front driveshaft. First, my dealer is great and they have been totally supportive of my mods and using my Rubicon as it was designed - Off Road!

My jeep is a daily driver, but I wheel as much as possible. Rubicon Trail is planned in August.

I am on my 2nd front driveshaft in 8 months due to torn boots and the next suggestion from the dealer is to use shims to adjust so that it won't continue to need replacement. They have been doing everything under warranty, but I am getting tired of the frequent JKU stays at the dealer.

I am thinking about going with a Tom Woods replacement driveshaft to just get it right and skip the hassle with the constant repairs and worry about a catastrophic failure.

While I don't have money to burn..., time, worry and hassle are a resource drain as well.

I have researched this and it looks like a mixed bag with opinions... But I welcome your advice.

Thanks!

 

Cant go wrong with the "Wood". With gas at $4.00 a gallon you may as well buy it and be done. Imo lol

 

There are lots of good slip CV DL's out there.

Tom Woods is great, but you'll pay a premium for his name.

Decide what your priorities are. For example, if you buy local you can probably get discounted serivce (like u-joint replacements). Also, you'd save shipping each time.

It's up to you. I run RE drivelines and they work fine. But so do many others....

 

I like the aftermarket drive line because they have a smaller diameter, so they hit less often on stuff. You can go with just about anybody that know there stuff. Use good quality materials like Spicer U-Joints and replace the yokes to accommodate a 1310 U-Joint. You can even get them made at your local drive line shop and save some money, but you may need to take a length measurement before they will start on it. For me I called in the length on evening and pick it up the next day.

 

Do you have any details on this?

 

I think they want to lower the trans skid... Lowering anything seems to me that it will fix one thing and create another potential issue.

 

I miss having all the choices I did when I lived in San Diego for local shops.

 

Ahh. More than likely, that won't help. The skid usually contacts the driveshaft below the boot. It makes some gouges, but nothing real serious. It's the corner of the tranny pan that generally rips the boot, and with enough height/flex/shock travel/etc, you can even bash in the pan. (be sure to check it, or have them check). A narrower driveshaft is your best bet, though as long as you are not contacting the tranny, losing that big boot isn't that big of a deal. People are driving just fine with that slip joint uncovered.

 

what he said - i would recommend a good 1310 shaft with replacement yokes and spicer u-joints. for the most part, drive shafts are drive shafts but some of the more popular ones use cheap chinese joints that i have seen to fail time and time again. if you go with a company like this, be sure to at least upgrade to spicer joints. companies like coast come with both and for about $450.

as mentioned, this will not work as your shaft will continue hitting your tranny pan.

the problem is, continued hits to your tranny pan can cause it to start leaking.

 

Thanks for the feedback everyone!!