Axles - What is the best approach to replacement?
I've got a 2007 4dr jeep with 37's, 5.13, and stock 30 front & 44 rear housings. I broke my front left ujoint and axle while in Moab.
I'm now faced with the decision of simply upgrading the axle shafts and u-joints to a stronger aftermarket product and putting more pressure on the ring and pinion. OR do I upgrade the entire housing, shafts, ujoints, and gears?
Either way I look at it I will be spending some cash. The less expensive route (only upgrading the axle shafts and ujoints) is the more wallet friendly route, but what products would be best? Superior? Ox? CTM? Any ideas? For the more expensive route, do you jump to Prorock 44? Teraflex? or wait till a rubicon swap comes available? Any thoughts?
Luckily the wifey has granted me around $5k to work with. She was in the jeep when the snap occurred and it scared the %^&* out of her... Now she is willing to drop some money so it doesn't happen again.
Any opinions, thoughts, suggestions, or personal stories would be appreciated.
I'm now faced with the decision of simply upgrading the axle shafts and u-joints to a stronger aftermarket product and putting more pressure on the ring and pinion. OR do I upgrade the entire housing, shafts, ujoints, and gears?

Either way I look at it I will be spending some cash. The less expensive route (only upgrading the axle shafts and ujoints) is the more wallet friendly route, but what products would be best? Superior? Ox? CTM? Any ideas? For the more expensive route, do you jump to Prorock 44? Teraflex? or wait till a rubicon swap comes available? Any thoughts?
Luckily the wifey has granted me around $5k to work with. She was in the jeep when the snap occurred and it scared the %^&* out of her... Now she is willing to drop some money so it doesn't happen again.
Any opinions, thoughts, suggestions, or personal stories would be appreciated.
I've got a 2007 4dr jeep with 37's, 5.13, and stock 30 front & 44 rear housings. I broke my front left ujoint and axle while in Moab.
I'm now faced with the decision of simply upgrading the axle shafts and u-joints to a stronger aftermarket product and putting more pressure on the ring and pinion. OR do I upgrade the entire housing, shafts, ujoints, and gears?
Either way I look at it I will be spending some cash. The less expensive route (only upgrading the axle shafts and ujoints) is the more wallet friendly route, but what products would be best? Superior? Ox? CTM? Any ideas? For the more expensive route, do you jump to Prorock 44? Teraflex? or wait till a rubicon swap comes available? Any thoughts?
Luckily the wifey has granted me around $5k to work with. She was in the jeep when the snap occurred and it scared the %^&* out of her... Now she is willing to drop some money so it doesn't happen again.
Any opinions, thoughts, suggestions, or personal stories would be appreciated.
I'm now faced with the decision of simply upgrading the axle shafts and u-joints to a stronger aftermarket product and putting more pressure on the ring and pinion. OR do I upgrade the entire housing, shafts, ujoints, and gears?

Either way I look at it I will be spending some cash. The less expensive route (only upgrading the axle shafts and ujoints) is the more wallet friendly route, but what products would be best? Superior? Ox? CTM? Any ideas? For the more expensive route, do you jump to Prorock 44? Teraflex? or wait till a rubicon swap comes available? Any thoughts?
Luckily the wifey has granted me around $5k to work with. She was in the jeep when the snap occurred and it scared the %^&* out of her... Now she is willing to drop some money so it doesn't happen again.
Any opinions, thoughts, suggestions, or personal stories would be appreciated.

....
I'm not saying that a d44 is not stronger than the d30, the housing is of course, but the axle shafts and ujoints are the same. Is it worth it to only get a stronger housing, but still have the same strength shafts? Please correct me if this is wrong...
I have read a number of stories on this forum detailing axle shafts and ujoints snapping, but that goes for both d30's and d44's. I also have noticed only a few rare stories of d30 housings breaking.
I'm not saying that a d44 is not stronger than the d30, the housing is of course, but the axle shafts and ujoints are the same. Is it worth it to only get a stronger housing, but still have the same strength shafts? Please correct me if this is wrong...
I'm not saying that a d44 is not stronger than the d30, the housing is of course, but the axle shafts and ujoints are the same. Is it worth it to only get a stronger housing, but still have the same strength shafts? Please correct me if this is wrong...
Last edited by CrazyShadow; May 10, 2011 at 08:42 PM.
Reference this link to a previous conversation. Note the difference in diameters of the u-joints, R&P, and outers. Easy to explain, however a picture is worth a thousand words.
~Crewrest
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...or-a-d30-w-37s
~Crewrest
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...or-a-d30-w-37s
If the housing is the same, why can you not put 5.38's in a 30, but you can in a 44?
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...or-a-d30-w-37s
You'll notice the housing is larger on the 44 if compared to the 30. Obviously there is an advantage to having a stronger housing/pumpkin.
The shafts and ujoints are nearly identical between the 44 and 30. Very slight variation. I only point this out to see what you gain in strength besides housing and pumpkin? I would be curious to know the difference in strength gain from the shafts and ujoint if any. Does anyone have any exact measurements or dimensions?

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...or-a-d30-w-37s
You'll notice the housing is larger on the 44 if compared to the 30. Obviously there is an advantage to having a stronger housing/pumpkin.
The shafts and ujoints are nearly identical between the 44 and 30. Very slight variation. I only point this out to see what you gain in strength besides housing and pumpkin? I would be curious to know the difference in strength gain from the shafts and ujoint if any. Does anyone have any exact measurements or dimensions?
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The pumpkin itself on the D44 is a lot larger to hold the larger (stronger) gears, HOWEVER, the axle TUBES are the same length/thickness as the D30 and uses the same "C's" at the ends... that is what everyone is referring to as them being "the same." If you want to beef up the axle housing you can get the Teraflex sleeve kit and "C" gussets that doubles the tube thickness and reinforces the "C's", thus strengthening the whole package.
As far as axles go.... the D44 has (I believe) a 31 spline shaft which is slightly bigger and stronger than the D30's 27 spline shaft.
As far as axles go.... the D44 has (I believe) a 31 spline shaft which is slightly bigger and stronger than the D30's 27 spline shaft.
The pumpkin itself on the D44 is a lot larger to hold the larger (stronger) gears, HOWEVER, the axle TUBES are the same length/thickness as the D30 and uses the same "C's" at the ends... that is what everyone is referring to as them being "the same." If you want to beef up the axle housing you can get the Teraflex sleeve kit and "C" gussets that doubles the tube thickness and reinforces the "C's", thus strengthening the whole package.
As far as axles go.... the D44 has (I believe) a 31 spline shaft which is slightly bigger and stronger than the D30's 27 spline shaft.
As far as axles go.... the D44 has (I believe) a 31 spline shaft which is slightly bigger and stronger than the D30's 27 spline shaft.
No matter what you do, if you're going to run large tires and a lift, you need to beef up your shafts and ujoints.
The more research I do, the more attractive staying with d30's housing is on a cost basis analysis.
I appreciate your input. You seem to know your
Jeepairforce...How long were you able to run your 37s before you broke? I brought up a very similar question the other day and am asking myself the same questions. Especially since everyone is charging out the a** for their used rubi 44s



