AEV geometry correction brackets w/ teraflex 2.5 lift
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JK Super Freak
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Cape Cod
AEV geometry correction brackets w/ teraflex 2.5 lift
So I came across these, http://www.quadratec.com/products/16502_4300.htm. Wondering if anyone has used them with the teraflex 2.5 coil lift. I'm thinking these would help save me from replacing my front drive shaft. 
JK Enthusiast
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AEV Brackets
You will need to measure the actual lift you have. AEV suggest you need 7" between chassis rail and coil perch. Some 2.5" lifts will offer this. I ran these brackets on an actial 2.5" lift with slightly over 6" of distance. My caster was a little high at 6 deg. I could have used longer upper control arms to fix this. I loved them, and the changes they made to the ride quality.
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JK Super Freak
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,531
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From: Cape Cod
You will need to measure the actual lift you have. AEV suggest you need 7" between chassis rail and coil perch. Some 2.5" lifts will offer this. I ran these brackets on an actial 2.5" lift with slightly over 6" of distance. My caster was a little high at 6 deg. I could have used longer upper control arms to fix this. I loved them, and the changes they made to the ride quality.
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So I came across these, http://www.quadratec.com/products/16502_4300.htm. Wondering if anyone has used them with the teraflex 2.5 coil lift. I'm thinking these would help save me from replacing my front drive shaft.
Thread Starter
JK Super Freak
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,531
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From: Cape Cod
JK Super Freak
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,127
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From: Delray Beach, FL
I am installing the AEV drop brackets next week because they change the geometry slightly so the pinion tilts up instead of down as the axle drops. I hear this will keep the factory shaft off the exhaust crossover, which I tested mine on a lift this week and it just touches at full droop. Adjustable arms won't fix this for me and I would rather have the full travel of my shocks than use straps.
Using brackets is more attractive to me when I can get 11" travel, use factory driveshafts (on a manual tranny), and use zero maintenance factory control arms than spending twice as much on arms that need maintenance and then likely an aftermarket driveshaft as well when the boot tears (on the exhaust) of a factory shaft.
Brackets and adjustable arms both have their place.
Last edited by Biginboca; Jul 21, 2011 at 04:08 PM.
JK Freak
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Miami, Fl
If you have shocks that are extended length like ome lt's or bilsteins then even with 2.5" lift the driveshaft can contact the exhaust crossover on a manual tranny or tranny pan and exhaust on an auto. If you want to know how I know its because I have the teraflex 2.5" coil lift and 11" travel bilstein shocks.
I am installing the AEV drop brackets next week because they change the geometry slightly so the pinion tilts up instead of down as the axle drops. I hear this will keep the factory shaft off the exhaust crossover, which I tested mine on a lift this week and it just touches at full droop. Adjustable arms won't fix this for me and I would rather have the full travel of my shocks than use straps.
Using brackets is more attractive to me when I can get 11" travel, use factory driveshafts (on a manual tranny), and use zero maintenance factory control arms than spending twice as much on arms that need maintenance and then likely an aftermarket driveshaft as well when the boot tears (on the exhaust) of a factory shaft.
Brackets and adjustable arms both have their place.
I am installing the AEV drop brackets next week because they change the geometry slightly so the pinion tilts up instead of down as the axle drops. I hear this will keep the factory shaft off the exhaust crossover, which I tested mine on a lift this week and it just touches at full droop. Adjustable arms won't fix this for me and I would rather have the full travel of my shocks than use straps.
Using brackets is more attractive to me when I can get 11" travel, use factory driveshafts (on a manual tranny), and use zero maintenance factory control arms than spending twice as much on arms that need maintenance and then likely an aftermarket driveshaft as well when the boot tears (on the exhaust) of a factory shaft.
Brackets and adjustable arms both have their place.
Thanks
Last edited by Tuto; Aug 23, 2011 at 02:49 PM.
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JK Enthusiast
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From: Tampa, Florida
I had them installed with my OME 2" Susension on my 2011 JK 2 Dr. Automatic Hard Top. Closer to 3 1/2" once installed. But the ride quality is so much better than when stock. If they will fit & meet your installation qualifications I highly recommend them.
JK Freak
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From: Miami, Fl
Thank you StuFarmer -
Here is some info on the AEV Geometry Correction Front Control Arm Brackets -
B. Installation with Non-AEV Suspension Kits
1. You’ll first need to get a measurement from your vehicle to determine whether or not you
should be using the drop brackets. Measure from the bottom of the frame to the top of
the spring seat as illustrated below.
2. NOTE: If your measurement is less than 7 inches we do not recommend these
brackets.
Here is some info on the AEV Geometry Correction Front Control Arm Brackets -
Improve front impact ride quality (expansion joints, ledges) – By reducing the operating angle of the front control arms, the suspension is allowed to work in a more natural state. This means that when hitting a bump, the force applied to the control arms is directed up into the springs instead of back directly into the frame. In effect an AEV 3.5” lifted JK “thinks” its lifted only 1.25”.
Change the instant center to increase Anti-Dive for improved braking performance – By increasing the anti-dive geometry of the suspension, you’ll notice the front of the vehicle will barely drop under hard braking when the drop brackets are utilized. They also increase force on the front wheels, increasing traction for better straight line braking. Further, they reduce the shifting weight and inertia under braking in curves, so handling is greatly improved.
Decrease the operating angle range of the front driveshaft – This one is often overlooked. Aftermarket double cardan joints do not have the torque rating (1850lb/ft for the 1310 double cardan, 2150 lb/ft for the OE CV Joint) and they can’t run as smoothly, so it's advantageous for most JKs to keep the stock CV units. The Front Control Arm Brackets rotate the pinion up as the axle drops to eliminate torn boots on the CV for long life in a lifted application.
Eliminate the need for adjustable control arms or cam bolts for caster correction - We’ve been touting the benefits of using the stock control arms for a long time because of the quality of the pre-loaded rubber OE Bushings that the factory uses, and because that quality has yet to be rivaled in any aftermarket bushing. These new brackets allow for the proper caster ranges to be achieved without the need for custom control arms.
The new Geometery Correction Front Control Arm Brackets are now standard in all AEV JK Nth Degree Suspensions and are also available as an upgrade to all older AEV Suspensions. They can also be used on other manufacturer’s kits, however the springs must fall into an acceptable height range for the correct caster to be achieved.
Change the instant center to increase Anti-Dive for improved braking performance – By increasing the anti-dive geometry of the suspension, you’ll notice the front of the vehicle will barely drop under hard braking when the drop brackets are utilized. They also increase force on the front wheels, increasing traction for better straight line braking. Further, they reduce the shifting weight and inertia under braking in curves, so handling is greatly improved.
Decrease the operating angle range of the front driveshaft – This one is often overlooked. Aftermarket double cardan joints do not have the torque rating (1850lb/ft for the 1310 double cardan, 2150 lb/ft for the OE CV Joint) and they can’t run as smoothly, so it's advantageous for most JKs to keep the stock CV units. The Front Control Arm Brackets rotate the pinion up as the axle drops to eliminate torn boots on the CV for long life in a lifted application.
Eliminate the need for adjustable control arms or cam bolts for caster correction - We’ve been touting the benefits of using the stock control arms for a long time because of the quality of the pre-loaded rubber OE Bushings that the factory uses, and because that quality has yet to be rivaled in any aftermarket bushing. These new brackets allow for the proper caster ranges to be achieved without the need for custom control arms.
The new Geometery Correction Front Control Arm Brackets are now standard in all AEV JK Nth Degree Suspensions and are also available as an upgrade to all older AEV Suspensions. They can also be used on other manufacturer’s kits, however the springs must fall into an acceptable height range for the correct caster to be achieved.
B. Installation with Non-AEV Suspension Kits
1. You’ll first need to get a measurement from your vehicle to determine whether or not you
should be using the drop brackets. Measure from the bottom of the frame to the top of
the spring seat as illustrated below.
2. NOTE: If your measurement is less than 7 inches we do not recommend these
brackets.
Last edited by Tuto; Aug 23, 2011 at 03:11 PM.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,127
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From: Delray Beach, FL
Yes, I installed them about a month ago and I am very happy I did. Handling is very much improved, but also my front driveshaft gained the clearance I needed to stay off my exhaust crossover. I am now running about 3.5" lift up front with stock driveshaft and over 11" travel shocks. With this set up I have no more clearance issues on the exhaust crossover, my driveshaft is about 1/2" off the exhaust crossover at full droop with both front wheels off the ground. With wheels on the ground I have tried to get articulation so the driveshaft hits the crossover and I can't get closer than about 1.5"!
The price for this was less than half of what adjustable LCA's would run. The only drawback is the 2' clearance lost where the brackets mount behind the front tires. For me it's a non issue but I know that clearance loss may bother others.
The price for this was less than half of what adjustable LCA's would run. The only drawback is the 2' clearance lost where the brackets mount behind the front tires. For me it's a non issue but I know that clearance loss may bother others.
Last edited by Biginboca; Aug 23, 2011 at 04:46 PM.