i have a couple of questions...
i am running 35s on a rough country 3.5in right now and was wondering how hard it would be to switch the axles...
if i end up getting a rubicon dana 44 what is the max tire size i can run on that safely? i cant find it but i know its on here some where...
thanks cameron

 

It is a direct bolt on swap. Same size and all the same brackets, so just remove your 30 and bolt it up.

Except for the center section on the 44, the housings are identical. Same length, same tube diameter, same tube thickness, same C's, they even use the same 32sp outer shafts.
The 44 gears are a big improvement, and the 44 ujoints are bigger, and the inner shafts are 30sp vs 27sp on the d30.

Assuming you do the same housing upgrades on the 44 as you would have done on the 30, you should be fine up to 37's or so. Just depends on how you use it, and how lucky you get. (remember that people are bending and shattering these factory housings on bone stock rigs).

 

I'm sorry I can't give you the answer you want and I'm not sure there is one single right answer. I'm running 37in Toyos in my stock D30 with 5:13 gears.....however...When I was wheeling in Moab back in April, I popped up a ledge and when I came down I stripped the little teeth on the gears.

Actually I was about to install a Rubi D44 today but the weather didn't agree. But the guy I bought the 44 from was running 42in tires. Now when I cracked open the pumpkin, I found a couple chipped teeth and stress cracks in just about every other tooth. So I'm replacing those with 5:38 Yukon gears as I will eventually move up to 40s. And I think that's the largest I'll go on D44s.

It all depends on how you drive and wheel.

Goodluck

 

Pretty much what he said above ^^^ really all depends on situations and how you drive.

 

thanks a lot that really helps
im just thinking whether i want to pull the trigger on a prorock 44
or just to get a used rubi 44 and sleeve and gusset and maybe a truss

 

I was debating the exact same thing.....until I stumbled upon the used rubi 44 that was (1) within driving distance (2) decent value and (3) had reinforcement.

The D44 had.....
truss & gussets,
tube seals,
chromoly shafts with stock shafts as trail spares
Arb cover
5:13s.....which unfortunately I had to replace but allowed me to upgrade
Teraflex draglink flip kit
Rock Krawler tie rod
Currie upper flex joints
And what sealed the deal for me....complete PSC Extreme Hydraulic Steering system

There are plenty of used D44s on the forums although you gotta get them quickly....they go fast. I think the used axles over the PR44 is just a better value.....especially with what I got.

 

this is very helpful thanks

 

What about drive shafts?

 

The answer you PM....yes the D44 are bigger and have larger, and therefore stronger components. Doesn't mean they won't break but all you can do is prepare. And again, its how you drive / wheel.

As for driveshafts....the axles will be a straight swap. Unless the previous owner went with an aftermarket driveshaft then the yoke will be different than the stock flange. The stock axles have a Flange.....rubi's, X's and saharas have the same flange so the driveshafts will work. If its an aftermarket yoke, then its most likely a 1310 or a bigger 1350 yoke. Most likely you'll run into 1310. If you need to change the yoke, its simple.....just disconnect the driveshaft and remove the pinion bolt. Slide the old yoke/flange off then install new one and reverse the process.

 

I wouldn't run over stock tires with a stock D44 axle. But I am one of the guys that snapped his front axle on a mild trail with stock tires and a 2.5" lift. Go big the first time and never look back!