AEV Snorkel - any tips before i install?
Make sure the printer you use to print off your template is calibrated correctly. Compare it to all your parts, cuz when mine printed, it printed too small...
Also, TAKE YOUR TIME. If you rush it, you'll F it up. Your actions should be thought out and deliberate if you want it to look good.
After I cut mine, I taped it up later and painted the exposed area for a more finished look and to protect it from rusting.
Also, TAKE YOUR TIME. If you rush it, you'll F it up. Your actions should be thought out and deliberate if you want it to look good.
After I cut mine, I taped it up later and painted the exposed area for a more finished look and to protect it from rusting.
Measure twice before cutting and make sure you have enough cutting disks prior to starting. I cut mine using a 2" hole saw and a dremel with the cutting disks. I went through one of the fiber reinforced cutting disks and 4 of the standard stone cutting disks.
You'll be cutting through two layers of hood sheetmetal. The first layer is easy--I used a cut-off disk (after making the initial 2" holes). The inner layer is tougher to access. I tried the cut-off disk and it was a pain. I tried a reciprocating saw and it would not fit. Then I tried my air nibbler. What an easy job! If you don't own one, beg or borrow one and it will be a lot easier. Be certain to place a tarp over the exposed engine bay to catch metal shavings/cuttings--there will be plenty.
Also, the instructions have you fill the holes in the bottom of the stock air box with sealer. You need to do this or it will be exposed to water entry, of course. However, DON'T do it when the instructions say to! Install the air box first because those holes let you peer through to the engine bay and align it quickly and easily. Otherwise, you'll be trying for quite a lot longer than necessary to get it lined up and pushed into place. Once you get it properly seated, put that sealer over those openings.
If you'd like to retain a CAI, but have the snorkel there when needed, RIPP offers a new product. There are good reasons to do this: The snorkel robs about 30HP according to dyno tests (of a supercharged JK).
http://www.rippmods.com/JEEP_Wrangler_KIT_2007_2011_RIPP_Cold_Air_Kit_for_ p/0711jkcai-snrk.htm
Good luck!
Also, the instructions have you fill the holes in the bottom of the stock air box with sealer. You need to do this or it will be exposed to water entry, of course. However, DON'T do it when the instructions say to! Install the air box first because those holes let you peer through to the engine bay and align it quickly and easily. Otherwise, you'll be trying for quite a lot longer than necessary to get it lined up and pushed into place. Once you get it properly seated, put that sealer over those openings.
If you'd like to retain a CAI, but have the snorkel there when needed, RIPP offers a new product. There are good reasons to do this: The snorkel robs about 30HP according to dyno tests (of a supercharged JK).
http://www.rippmods.com/JEEP_Wrangler_KIT_2007_2011_RIPP_Cold_Air_Kit_for_ p/0711jkcai-snrk.htm
Good luck!
Also, as I understand it, the AEV snorkel is incompatible with other CAI kits, but you don't really need those anymore after installing your snorkel because it does a better job of delivering cold air to the engine.
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If you are going to use a hole saw, use a variable speed drill with a clutch -type chuck that will slip if it binds up which will prevent the pilot bit from breaking and sending a 600rpm hole saw down the side of your Jeep

But with the hole saw, take your time, go nice and slow. Like he said, if you go to fast you will break your pilot bit which will REALLY piss you off, trust me. Go slow with it, once it starts a little bit of a groove you can pick up the pace a bit and cut through.
My scar.
My brand new pilot bit that was used for about 10 seconds







