Hey Guys

I installed the 1.5 TF spacer kit. I just used the 2" fronts and not the 1" back... it leveled the rig right up. I am getting new tires to day, because I notice a wobble on the tires even before the lift, but after it was way worse.

I did recenter the steering after.

I did NOT loosen all the CA bolts or anything else when i installed the lift, I just did the lower shock bolts and replaced the front sway bar links. I have read that I should have loosened everything up then retorque on the ground. I am wondering if because I didnt do this I am feeling that my steering is a bit loose, and getting a pull to the left.

I did have a full alignment done yesterday.

My questions are

1) Can I loosen all the bolts while still on the ground shake then retorque? Or should I lift, loosen then drop and retorque?
2) What bolts should I loosen?
3) what are the small little screws for that tie into the top of the sway bar links?
4) Should I lithium grease anything whle I am down there?

 

with the little lift you just installed up front, doing this really isn't necessary but, it would help to relieve any bind that you might have in your bushings. still, i seriously doubt that this is causing your loose steering. if anything and based on what you were saying about your tires, i have to wonder if maybe your ball joints are going bad.

i hope you did it yourself as with what you have now, you paid to have nothing done.

yes

control arm and track bar bolts. being that you just installed spacers up front, you only need to do this up front.

sorry, a pic might be helpful here

there's nothing to really grease and you don't want to add any grease to rubber bushings.

 

How can I tell if my ball joints are going bad???

Thanks for you feedback!

 

If you have a dial indicator, it will be the best way to measure ball joint play. But, there are things you can do to check it without one and, if they are really bad, you won't need one.

Here what you do:
1. From the axle, use a good floor jack to lift one of your tire off the ground. If you don't have a good floor jack, set your axle on a jack stand to hold it up securely in place.
2. From the side, place a long pry bar under the tire and have someone lift it up and down while you watch the lower ball joint for axial (up and down) movement. Any movement more than 0.050" is too much and would indicate that your ball joint is bad. Of course, if you can see this movement with your eyes, it's definitely bad.
3. Next, grab the tire at the 12 and 6 o'clock position and try to rock it back and forth while you have someone watch the upper joint for any movement. Any radial (side-to-side) movement more than 0.060" is too much. Again, if you can see the movement with your eyes and without any dial indicator, it's probably bad as well.

Radial (side-to-side) movement in the upper ball joint should not exceed 0.060" (1.5mm).

Axial (up and down) movement in the lower ball joint should not exceed 0.050" (1.25mm).

 

My gut is that it is not the ball joints, the tires I have are brutal. We were barely able to statically balance them, but dynamically they would not even get close. I am hoping after I get the new tires on, I will get a better idea of where the flighty steering is coming in. Before the crapy tires were put on (1 month ago) and the lift I had zero issues with steering or a bumpy ride.

When I had my alignment done, the guy moved the caster to Manufacturers Spec? Should this be the case with a 2" boost?

 

did the guy mention exactly how he was able to move your caster? because, this is not something you should be able to do unless you have adjustable upper or lower control arms or, had cam bolts installed and i sure hope he didn't install a set of those. more positive caster should help eliminate "flightyness" (not the same as "loose" steering) but, to do this with cam bolts would require that the holes in your lower control arm mounts at the axle be made into slots. while this does work to a degree, cam bolts are notorious for coming loose and allowing your axle to shift around.

 

My Bad he actually just adjsuted the toe back to spec... didnt touch the caster.

 

but, your toe shouldn't have changed at all. unlike the old TJ's, the tie rod is connected to the knuckles and the drag link is not attached to it. in other words, lifting your jeep will have no effect on your toe. maybe you don't have enough or any toe in now

also, as mentioned, adding a touch more positive caster will help eliminate flightyness. adjustable lower control arms will help you to do this.

 

Are you talking about the Zerk fitting for grease?

Looks like a brass screw

 

Yes that was what I was talking about. My caster was 3.7 and 3.5. Good? Bad?