Spare tire roof rack **LOW BUDGET**
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
From: kitchener
Spare tire roof rack **LOW BUDGET**
Well after spending hours trying to find info in regards to a basic roof rack that will basically be used to store a spare tire on a very low budget I have come to no avail-- google has failed me.
Is there anyone out there that might have a possible lead or even a link as to where I can purchase one for under 300 dollars? Any help in finding this product would be awesome and appreciated.
thanks
Oh yeah, its a 2011 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited rubicon.
Is there anyone out there that might have a possible lead or even a link as to where I can purchase one for under 300 dollars? Any help in finding this product would be awesome and appreciated.
thanks
Oh yeah, its a 2011 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited rubicon.
JK Freak
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 565
Likes: 2
From: Dublin, CA
Here is text... I don't know how to send link with my iPhone... Use search and type in "warrior roof rack permanent mount" and that should pull it up for you with pics.
Let me know if you have any other questions.... Will be glad to help!!
I have been asked by a couple forum members to give a write-up on my roof rack. I searched and searched for a roof rack that "looked good" while still served it's purpose and I couldn't find one that I thought still looked cool and would serve a purpose so I decided to build my own. I must give credit to another forum member (forgot whom it was) as I saw something similiar on a pic of his jeep and that is what inspired me.
I will try to do this from memory, so here it goes:
Materials Needed:
Warrior Roof Rack
2-Ford Explorer 4-door roof track mounts (got mine for $25 at junk yard)
4-Pieces of metal strips from Lowes (approx. 2" x 24"x 1/8" thick)
Drill
Silicone
Bolts, Washers and Nuts
I measured the distance between the two longitudinal bars on the bottom of the warrior rack, I think they were like 36" apart or something. I then measured entire width of roof rack, did the calculations to ensure I put the roof rack in the center of the top. After lining this up I placed the rack as far back as I could (more on this reasoning later) so the ends of the Explorer roof tracks were basically by the edge line of the back of the hard top.
I placed the unmounted tracks where I measured them to be then I put the warrior rack on top of them, the size of the longitudinal bars of the Explorer tracks was the perfect width for the bottom bars of the warrior rack to rest perfectly on. At this point I picked my locations to drill my holes. What I was trying to find (and did) was locations where I only had to drill through the longitudinal bars of the warrior rack. Another thing that I "lucked out on" and I would advise you do is measure to make sure one of the holes you are going to drill lines up on the inside of the hard top (right around the middle of the hard top there is an "depressed area" area about 2.5" wide and about 28" long (from memory probably not exact). I thought of this area of a great place to put one on my metal "cross members" so I made sure one of the holes I drilled through the top came through this "depressed area".
After drilling holes, 4 on each side I placed the bolts through the holes and through the roof and got underneath the top to do next step. I took the pieces of metal, made sure that they are long enough to reach both holes and I marked locations to drill holes in these metal sheets. My thinking was that these will act like HUGE washers and when I am pulling UP on the top it will spread the force throughout the entire top and not just a concentrated area around the bolt. I did this at front, back and 2 middle locations (one of the middle being the depressed area mentioned before). Now everything was in place I removed the bolts and siliconed the crap out of the holes and put the bolts back through (from top, through warrior roof rack, through explorer track racks, through hard top, through metal "cross members") and put a large washer and bolt on the bottom. Did this at all locations, tightened everything up, Re-bedlined the interior of my top....and I was done.
Took me about 6-8 hours over the period of two days. I have had it on for about 8 months, took a 5000+ mile roadtrip with over 250 lbs strapped up there. I have been offroading with it on, and it has seen PLENTY of rain.
The only issue I have is that on the road trip with front freedom panels off and rear (with roof rack) still on I could hear a loud whistle (wind noise from around the front of the roof rack from going about 60 mph). With front freedom panels on I cannot hear it AT ALL...even with the radio off. I have had no leaks to date (knock on wood) and when I remove my top I actually remove it by lifting from the roof rack.
I now carry my spare tire (35") up there, with a shovel, axe and gas can and stillhave no issues.[/QUOTE][/QUOTE]
Let me know if you have any other questions.... Will be glad to help!!
I have been asked by a couple forum members to give a write-up on my roof rack. I searched and searched for a roof rack that "looked good" while still served it's purpose and I couldn't find one that I thought still looked cool and would serve a purpose so I decided to build my own. I must give credit to another forum member (forgot whom it was) as I saw something similiar on a pic of his jeep and that is what inspired me.
I will try to do this from memory, so here it goes:
Materials Needed:
Warrior Roof Rack
2-Ford Explorer 4-door roof track mounts (got mine for $25 at junk yard)
4-Pieces of metal strips from Lowes (approx. 2" x 24"x 1/8" thick)
Drill
Silicone
Bolts, Washers and Nuts
I measured the distance between the two longitudinal bars on the bottom of the warrior rack, I think they were like 36" apart or something. I then measured entire width of roof rack, did the calculations to ensure I put the roof rack in the center of the top. After lining this up I placed the rack as far back as I could (more on this reasoning later) so the ends of the Explorer roof tracks were basically by the edge line of the back of the hard top.
I placed the unmounted tracks where I measured them to be then I put the warrior rack on top of them, the size of the longitudinal bars of the Explorer tracks was the perfect width for the bottom bars of the warrior rack to rest perfectly on. At this point I picked my locations to drill my holes. What I was trying to find (and did) was locations where I only had to drill through the longitudinal bars of the warrior rack. Another thing that I "lucked out on" and I would advise you do is measure to make sure one of the holes you are going to drill lines up on the inside of the hard top (right around the middle of the hard top there is an "depressed area" area about 2.5" wide and about 28" long (from memory probably not exact). I thought of this area of a great place to put one on my metal "cross members" so I made sure one of the holes I drilled through the top came through this "depressed area".
After drilling holes, 4 on each side I placed the bolts through the holes and through the roof and got underneath the top to do next step. I took the pieces of metal, made sure that they are long enough to reach both holes and I marked locations to drill holes in these metal sheets. My thinking was that these will act like HUGE washers and when I am pulling UP on the top it will spread the force throughout the entire top and not just a concentrated area around the bolt. I did this at front, back and 2 middle locations (one of the middle being the depressed area mentioned before). Now everything was in place I removed the bolts and siliconed the crap out of the holes and put the bolts back through (from top, through warrior roof rack, through explorer track racks, through hard top, through metal "cross members") and put a large washer and bolt on the bottom. Did this at all locations, tightened everything up, Re-bedlined the interior of my top....and I was done.
Took me about 6-8 hours over the period of two days. I have had it on for about 8 months, took a 5000+ mile roadtrip with over 250 lbs strapped up there. I have been offroading with it on, and it has seen PLENTY of rain.
The only issue I have is that on the road trip with front freedom panels off and rear (with roof rack) still on I could hear a loud whistle (wind noise from around the front of the roof rack from going about 60 mph). With front freedom panels on I cannot hear it AT ALL...even with the radio off. I have had no leaks to date (knock on wood) and when I remove my top I actually remove it by lifting from the roof rack.
I now carry my spare tire (35") up there, with a shovel, axe and gas can and stillhave no issues.[/QUOTE][/QUOTE]
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
From: kitchener
Here is text... I don't know how to send link with my iPhone... Use search and type in "warrior roof rack permanent mount" and that should pull it up for you with pics.
Let me know if you have any other questions.... Will be glad to help!!
I have been asked by a couple forum members to give a write-up on my roof rack. I searched and searched for a roof rack that "looked good" while still served it's purpose and I couldn't find one that I thought still looked cool and would serve a purpose so I decided to build my own. I must give credit to another forum member (forgot whom it was) as I saw something similiar on a pic of his jeep and that is what inspired me.
I will try to do this from memory, so here it goes:
Materials Needed:
Warrior Roof Rack
2-Ford Explorer 4-door roof track mounts (got mine for $25 at junk yard)
4-Pieces of metal strips from Lowes (approx. 2" x 24"x 1/8" thick)
Drill
Silicone
Bolts, Washers and Nuts
I measured the distance between the two longitudinal bars on the bottom of the warrior rack, I think they were like 36" apart or something. I then measured entire width of roof rack, did the calculations to ensure I put the roof rack in the center of the top. After lining this up I placed the rack as far back as I could (more on this reasoning later) so the ends of the Explorer roof tracks were basically by the edge line of the back of the hard top.
I placed the unmounted tracks where I measured them to be then I put the warrior rack on top of them, the size of the longitudinal bars of the Explorer tracks was the perfect width for the bottom bars of the warrior rack to rest perfectly on. At this point I picked my locations to drill my holes. What I was trying to find (and did) was locations where I only had to drill through the longitudinal bars of the warrior rack. Another thing that I "lucked out on" and I would advise you do is measure to make sure one of the holes you are going to drill lines up on the inside of the hard top (right around the middle of the hard top there is an "depressed area" area about 2.5" wide and about 28" long (from memory probably not exact). I thought of this area of a great place to put one on my metal "cross members" so I made sure one of the holes I drilled through the top came through this "depressed area".
After drilling holes, 4 on each side I placed the bolts through the holes and through the roof and got underneath the top to do next step. I took the pieces of metal, made sure that they are long enough to reach both holes and I marked locations to drill holes in these metal sheets. My thinking was that these will act like HUGE washers and when I am pulling UP on the top it will spread the force throughout the entire top and not just a concentrated area around the bolt. I did this at front, back and 2 middle locations (one of the middle being the depressed area mentioned before). Now everything was in place I removed the bolts and siliconed the crap out of the holes and put the bolts back through (from top, through warrior roof rack, through explorer track racks, through hard top, through metal "cross members") and put a large washer and bolt on the bottom. Did this at all locations, tightened everything up, Re-bedlined the interior of my top....and I was done.
Took me about 6-8 hours over the period of two days. I have had it on for about 8 months, took a 5000+ mile roadtrip with over 250 lbs strapped up there. I have been offroading with it on, and it has seen PLENTY of rain.
The only issue I have is that on the road trip with front freedom panels off and rear (with roof rack) still on I could hear a loud whistle (wind noise from around the front of the roof rack from going about 60 mph). With front freedom panels on I cannot hear it AT ALL...even with the radio off. I have had no leaks to date (knock on wood) and when I remove my top I actually remove it by lifting from the roof rack.
I now carry my spare tire (35") up there, with a shovel, axe and gas can and stillhave no issues.
Let me know if you have any other questions.... Will be glad to help!!
I have been asked by a couple forum members to give a write-up on my roof rack. I searched and searched for a roof rack that "looked good" while still served it's purpose and I couldn't find one that I thought still looked cool and would serve a purpose so I decided to build my own. I must give credit to another forum member (forgot whom it was) as I saw something similiar on a pic of his jeep and that is what inspired me.
I will try to do this from memory, so here it goes:
Materials Needed:
Warrior Roof Rack
2-Ford Explorer 4-door roof track mounts (got mine for $25 at junk yard)
4-Pieces of metal strips from Lowes (approx. 2" x 24"x 1/8" thick)
Drill
Silicone
Bolts, Washers and Nuts
I measured the distance between the two longitudinal bars on the bottom of the warrior rack, I think they were like 36" apart or something. I then measured entire width of roof rack, did the calculations to ensure I put the roof rack in the center of the top. After lining this up I placed the rack as far back as I could (more on this reasoning later) so the ends of the Explorer roof tracks were basically by the edge line of the back of the hard top.
I placed the unmounted tracks where I measured them to be then I put the warrior rack on top of them, the size of the longitudinal bars of the Explorer tracks was the perfect width for the bottom bars of the warrior rack to rest perfectly on. At this point I picked my locations to drill my holes. What I was trying to find (and did) was locations where I only had to drill through the longitudinal bars of the warrior rack. Another thing that I "lucked out on" and I would advise you do is measure to make sure one of the holes you are going to drill lines up on the inside of the hard top (right around the middle of the hard top there is an "depressed area" area about 2.5" wide and about 28" long (from memory probably not exact). I thought of this area of a great place to put one on my metal "cross members" so I made sure one of the holes I drilled through the top came through this "depressed area".
After drilling holes, 4 on each side I placed the bolts through the holes and through the roof and got underneath the top to do next step. I took the pieces of metal, made sure that they are long enough to reach both holes and I marked locations to drill holes in these metal sheets. My thinking was that these will act like HUGE washers and when I am pulling UP on the top it will spread the force throughout the entire top and not just a concentrated area around the bolt. I did this at front, back and 2 middle locations (one of the middle being the depressed area mentioned before). Now everything was in place I removed the bolts and siliconed the crap out of the holes and put the bolts back through (from top, through warrior roof rack, through explorer track racks, through hard top, through metal "cross members") and put a large washer and bolt on the bottom. Did this at all locations, tightened everything up, Re-bedlined the interior of my top....and I was done.
Took me about 6-8 hours over the period of two days. I have had it on for about 8 months, took a 5000+ mile roadtrip with over 250 lbs strapped up there. I have been offroading with it on, and it has seen PLENTY of rain.
The only issue I have is that on the road trip with front freedom panels off and rear (with roof rack) still on I could hear a loud whistle (wind noise from around the front of the roof rack from going about 60 mph). With front freedom panels on I cannot hear it AT ALL...even with the radio off. I have had no leaks to date (knock on wood) and when I remove my top I actually remove it by lifting from the roof rack.
I now carry my spare tire (35") up there, with a shovel, axe and gas can and stillhave no issues.
Awesome, thank u sooo much for the info, i really appreciate it.
cheers