Rubicon,Teraflex,Ome
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JK Enthusiast
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From: Studio City California
Rubicon,Teraflex,Ome
Getting ready to lift the jeep. I've been going back and forth on which lift to get. I want a 2.5 lift with 35's. I would love to keep it a nice soft smooth ride. Also what kind of shocks work good with anyone of these lifts. I'm pretty new to the lift world. So any tips would help. Also would i have to re gear?
JK-Forum Founder
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Laguna Niguel, CA
Getting ready to lift the jeep. I've been going back and forth on which lift to get. I want a 2.5 lift with 35's. I would love to keep it a nice soft smooth ride. Also what kind of shocks work good with anyone of these lifts. I'm pretty new to the lift world. So any tips would help. Also would i have to re gear?
JK-Forum Founder
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 36,534
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From: Laguna Niguel, CA
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JK Newbie
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Central Kentucky
It still feels weird for me to read the forums here and see that people consider other options besides OME. With every other 4x4 out there the guys don't even consider anything except Emus.
I've done Emus on a WJ, YJ, and KJ and we've loved 'em all. I'll probably do them on the JKU next Spring.
I've done Emus on a WJ, YJ, and KJ and we've loved 'em all. I'll probably do them on the JKU next Spring.
JK Freak
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Concord, NC
Originally Posted by RubiBus
Any of those lifts should do just fine, but I'd recommend looking at Rock Krawler, too. Bilstein 5100 shocks are probalby the most widely used shock on the JK, but there are certainly others out there, including Fox if you wan to drop that kind of coin. Doesn't take much to fit 35's on a JK, though. A decent 2.5" lift will get you where you want to be, but you'll want to add some bumpstop at least in the rear. 1.5-2" should be fine. Also, make sure when you do your lift that you get longer swaybar links for the rear and disconnects for the front. If you have a Rubicon, you'll have an electronic disconnect motor, but you'll still need longer links for it. Not exactly necessary right off the bat, but soon you'll want to replace the front track bar with an adjustable one, as well as install a relocation bracket for the rear track barm or get a replacement for it as well.
As far as regearing, if you don't have a Rubicon, you can get away with stock gears if you have the 3.73's, but you'll eventually want to regear to at least 4.88's unless you have hopes of going with bigger tires later (i.e. 37's, 40's, etc.), in which case you'll want to look at either 5.13's or 5.38's. Neither of those ratios are necessary for pushing 35's, but plan your build around where you want it to be in the end, not where you can get it to right now. No sense paying for something twice if you don't have to.
Lastly, you'll want to pick up a programmer of some sort to recalibrate your speedo, as it will be off once you step up to larger tires. If you have a 2011 or newer, there are no programmers that offer performance tunes at this point, so an AEV ProCal unit ($150) will do exactly what you need it to, including allow you to reaclibrate for new gears.
All of this has indeed been covered countless times before, so try a search first from here on out. I don't mind posting at all, so no worries, but most other members tend to get a bit pissy and their panties get in a bunch when someone asks the same questions over and over again. Wouldn't want you to get a severe flaming now would we?
As far as regearing, if you don't have a Rubicon, you can get away with stock gears if you have the 3.73's, but you'll eventually want to regear to at least 4.88's unless you have hopes of going with bigger tires later (i.e. 37's, 40's, etc.), in which case you'll want to look at either 5.13's or 5.38's. Neither of those ratios are necessary for pushing 35's, but plan your build around where you want it to be in the end, not where you can get it to right now. No sense paying for something twice if you don't have to.
Lastly, you'll want to pick up a programmer of some sort to recalibrate your speedo, as it will be off once you step up to larger tires. If you have a 2011 or newer, there are no programmers that offer performance tunes at this point, so an AEV ProCal unit ($150) will do exactly what you need it to, including allow you to reaclibrate for new gears.
All of this has indeed been covered countless times before, so try a search first from here on out. I don't mind posting at all, so no worries, but most other members tend to get a bit pissy and their panties get in a bunch when someone asks the same questions over and over again. Wouldn't want you to get a severe flaming now would we?
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Northern Va
All of this has indeed been covered countless times before, so try a search first from here on out. I don't mind posting at all, so no worries, but most other members tend to get a bit pissy and their panties get in a bunch when someone asks the same questions over and over again. Wouldn't want you to get a severe flaming now would we?
