Adding Shackels to OEM Bumpers/gas carrier.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 313
Likes: 0
From: lone star state
Dude, I already told you this isn`t the greatest idea. Unless you mount the shackle plate to your frame end, it`s not gonna be stong enough to withstand the yanking/tugging. It looks like the rear may work, but the front appears to have a custom hitch, and I`m not sure how stong those shackle mounts are. If you replaced the factory hooks with shackle mounts on your frame rail end caps, it may be strong enough, but only then. Otherwise, you`re lookin' for trouble. I would leave the factiory hooks up front, and just go with a warn shackle hitch for now. I know the shackles look cool, but I wouldn`t mess with modding them unless you are sure the mounting location is sufficient. 
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 199
Likes: 0
Hi!
Don't listen to the naysayers Matthew.
Done right those D-Shakles work just fine.
I KNOW this due to thats my rig.
I've back towed a Bronco outa a hole with the front right. (I didn't need the winch.)
I have a "portable" winch which plugs into either the front or the rear receivers.
It works great as well.
I can recomend to you that idea as Ive been on single wide trails when others got stuck both in front of me and behind me.
I haven't got'n stuck myself yet but then I grew up learning about STEERING WHEELS... lol
Also the main reason I added the D-shackles was simply to provide lift points for the jack.
The Jeep itself SUCKS when you lift it as far as changing tires goes.
Also just being able to lift and "push over" to get out of a small hole is awkward at the least once lifted.
All the mods on both bumpers were done for a total of $300.
Having decided on a portable winch ( a decision I'll never regret except when I have to lug the 110lb thing ), it made no sense to me to replace the bumper with a more costly and less (to me) good looking one. I happen to really like the looks of the stock bumpers and understand the physics of the thing, being I am a manufacturing engineer by trade.
All bumpers that are worth a damm connect solidly to the frame in exactly the same way.
In future I suspect I will be adding some "bushwacker" stuff to it as well.
I'm debating putting a spare tire mount out front for offroad use ( I once needed two spares on the same day...)
The D-Shakles are mounted to 1/2 steel plate which is welded directly to the bumper frame steel. They are 8" to 12" long by 4" wide and welded along the ENTIRE length top and bottom and also at rear edge. This is exactly as strong or stronger and as ridged as any other well made purpose built bumper out there. Remember that under the plastic cover the JK bumper is basically a bare shorty.
The Gerry can mount is similarly strong.
Its a 1/4" steel plate mounted behind the stock spare tire rack using 1/4 longer bolts to get full engagement of thread , ( the concern being the added wieght).
We welded 1" x .120 wall tube to that plate and bent the tube and then welded a standard Gerry can holder to that.
When full cans are on it I still have a working rear view even with the 35" spare up there. This is important to me for safe driving.
I spent MONTHS looking for the solution and due to either price or features finally went this way.
It's custom work.
It has a slight drawback as designed and that is it gets a bit bouncy when you're hammering the rig.
We should have added support gussets across the bend and pushed up the cross bar stiffner (that runs behind the spare) which is a peice of 3/4 angle steel bar,so that it was higher up nearer to the cans them selves. We didn't due to it all is tight and tucked away and looks real good as is.
However it's not a problem since I added a chain with a turnbubkle and locks to secure the cans if I park the rig someplace and have 10 gallons of $4.00 a gallon gas sitting there begging to get stolen.
By tightening the turnbuckle the chain takes out any bounce it has.
As to the weight issue: don't believe it when folks tell you the rear door wont take it.
It absolutly will take it.
I mean its not like your driving around with the door open.
It only has to handle any added wieght when open and when slaming it shut.
I will be adding a custom rack thru the spare soon but need to complete my trailer mods 1st to see what hieght to put it.
It will have "feet" that come back down to the door near the bottom out side the spare.
I have sat on my rear door.
I wiegh 285lbs.
That was with the two gans full of gas and the spare on.
So I figure another 100lbs or rack plus stuff should be fine.
~
A jeep is an ever expanding project and a big damm black hole to sink your money into.
I am neither rich nor stupid and so try to be careful with my money (other the the Jeep itself.
As you search for solutions to problems (real or imagined) remember that nobody cares about you except you. EVERYONE wants your money.
So for a small one time fee I will be happy to consult with you on how you can save money and still get what your need/want.....
lol
Anyway enjoy your Jeep.
You only go around once.
So make sure you get back...
Don't listen to the naysayers Matthew.
Done right those D-Shakles work just fine.
I KNOW this due to thats my rig.
I've back towed a Bronco outa a hole with the front right. (I didn't need the winch.)
I have a "portable" winch which plugs into either the front or the rear receivers.
It works great as well.
I can recomend to you that idea as Ive been on single wide trails when others got stuck both in front of me and behind me.
I haven't got'n stuck myself yet but then I grew up learning about STEERING WHEELS... lol
Also the main reason I added the D-shackles was simply to provide lift points for the jack.
The Jeep itself SUCKS when you lift it as far as changing tires goes.
Also just being able to lift and "push over" to get out of a small hole is awkward at the least once lifted.
All the mods on both bumpers were done for a total of $300.
Having decided on a portable winch ( a decision I'll never regret except when I have to lug the 110lb thing ), it made no sense to me to replace the bumper with a more costly and less (to me) good looking one. I happen to really like the looks of the stock bumpers and understand the physics of the thing, being I am a manufacturing engineer by trade.
All bumpers that are worth a damm connect solidly to the frame in exactly the same way.
In future I suspect I will be adding some "bushwacker" stuff to it as well.
I'm debating putting a spare tire mount out front for offroad use ( I once needed two spares on the same day...)
The D-Shakles are mounted to 1/2 steel plate which is welded directly to the bumper frame steel. They are 8" to 12" long by 4" wide and welded along the ENTIRE length top and bottom and also at rear edge. This is exactly as strong or stronger and as ridged as any other well made purpose built bumper out there. Remember that under the plastic cover the JK bumper is basically a bare shorty.
The Gerry can mount is similarly strong.
Its a 1/4" steel plate mounted behind the stock spare tire rack using 1/4 longer bolts to get full engagement of thread , ( the concern being the added wieght).
We welded 1" x .120 wall tube to that plate and bent the tube and then welded a standard Gerry can holder to that.
When full cans are on it I still have a working rear view even with the 35" spare up there. This is important to me for safe driving.
I spent MONTHS looking for the solution and due to either price or features finally went this way.
It's custom work.
It has a slight drawback as designed and that is it gets a bit bouncy when you're hammering the rig.
We should have added support gussets across the bend and pushed up the cross bar stiffner (that runs behind the spare) which is a peice of 3/4 angle steel bar,so that it was higher up nearer to the cans them selves. We didn't due to it all is tight and tucked away and looks real good as is.
However it's not a problem since I added a chain with a turnbubkle and locks to secure the cans if I park the rig someplace and have 10 gallons of $4.00 a gallon gas sitting there begging to get stolen.
By tightening the turnbuckle the chain takes out any bounce it has.
As to the weight issue: don't believe it when folks tell you the rear door wont take it.
It absolutly will take it.
I mean its not like your driving around with the door open.
It only has to handle any added wieght when open and when slaming it shut.
I will be adding a custom rack thru the spare soon but need to complete my trailer mods 1st to see what hieght to put it.
It will have "feet" that come back down to the door near the bottom out side the spare.
I have sat on my rear door.
I wiegh 285lbs.
That was with the two gans full of gas and the spare on.
So I figure another 100lbs or rack plus stuff should be fine.
~A jeep is an ever expanding project and a big damm black hole to sink your money into.
I am neither rich nor stupid and so try to be careful with my money (other the the Jeep itself
.As you search for solutions to problems (real or imagined) remember that nobody cares about you except you. EVERYONE wants your money.
So for a small one time fee I will be happy to consult with you on how you can save money and still get what your need/want.....
lol
Anyway enjoy your Jeep.
You only go around once.
So make sure you get back...
Last edited by LinkSync; Nov 22, 2007 at 09:23 AM.
JK Junkie
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,326
Likes: 0
From: Central Georgia
This is true, with the exception that the factory metal "bumper" under the plastic is like a 1/16" thick compared to the heavy duty aftermarket bumpers out there that are 3/16" or even 1/4" thick. If you have the d-ring mounts tied into the frame, then I see no reason why it would be safe, but if you just have plate steel and the d-ring mounts welded to the factory bumper without the bumper mounting bolts going through the plate to the frame, I would think with enough tugging, you're going to be in trouble when that thin metal gives out where it mounts to the frame. Just my .02.