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Replacing all LCAs and Trac Bar Bolts..Can i do it without raising my Rubi?

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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 05:21 PM
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Default Replacing all LCAs and Trac Bar Bolts..Can i do it without raising my Rubi?

2010 Rubi with 20k miles. Heard about the Trac bar and LCA bolts are 14mm instead of 9/16. Ordered all bolts, washers, lock washer, and nuts from Fastenal for $88. Now, do i need to raise my JKU before installing them bolts or can i just change them one at a time with all wheels on the ground?
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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by OOC-07Rubi
2010 Rubi with 20k miles. Heard about the Trac bar and LCA bolts are 14mm instead of 9/16. Ordered all bolts, washers, lock washer, and nuts from Fastenal for $88. Now, do i need to raise my JKU before installing them bolts or can i just change them one at a time with all wheels on the ground?
Just curious. Why replacing?
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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by JK-Ford
Just curious. Why replacing?
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...trol-arm-bolts
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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 05:36 PM
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Yeah, you should be able to. I would suggest a floor jack for minor lifting to tweak the bolt holes, found that lifting a small amount in key places let the bolts just slide through.
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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 05:39 PM
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Thanks. Duly Noted.
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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 07:56 PM
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Thank all,

I will surely bring a small jack with me. Thanks again.
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Old Jan 14, 2012 | 02:00 PM
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Alright, just got done replacing all lca and trac bar bolts. Didn't have to use a jack. Bolts pretty much lined up with all wheels on the ground. Torqued to 126 ft/lbs. I used a car lift so made it easier with wrenching.

Death wobble??? Twice before on the freeway, I hit a pothole and i can feel the jeep wobble. Weird. It feels fine now but i need to find that pothole on the freeway and try it again. As for the bushings, after 20k miles, there is a little bit of chaffing due to the all thread bolts but not too bad..even though mine looks like there is a bushing sleeve in there....

Any of you 2010 JKUs checked yours? Mine looks like its a metal bushing sleeve inside. Anyway, everything went in fine except the front was a little pain due to not enough space to work my torque wrench. Be patient when you do it.

Thanks all for great advise.

Last edited by OOC-07Rubi; Jan 14, 2012 at 02:13 PM.
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Old Jan 14, 2012 | 07:15 PM
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how did you get a socket on the track bar bolt (by the steering stabilizer)? I want to relocate my ss, so I crawled under there to see whats what, and I cant get a socket with breaker bar on the track bar bolt head, not enough clearance between the track bar bolt and the tie rod (or drag link, not sure what its called), if I removed the tie rod I could get to it fine, but I didnt want to do that....Ive heard of some using a box end wrench to loosen and re tighten the bolt, but Id like to be able to torque it properly.
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Old Jan 14, 2012 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by monkers
how did you get a socket on the track bar bolt (by the steering stabilizer)? I want to relocate my ss, so I crawled under there to see whats what, and I cant get a socket with breaker bar on the track bar bolt head, not enough clearance between the track bar bolt and the tie rod (or drag link, not sure what its called), if I removed the tie rod I could get to it fine, but I didnt want to do that....Ive heard of some using a box end wrench to loosen and re tighten the bolt, but Id like to be able to torque it properly.


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I used a 3" extension with a universal joint. There's not that much room so I got my hands up over the trac bar and I was able to loosen the bolt. There's a space between trac bar and engine... Only about quarter of a turn at a time but I was able to tighten the bolt using a shorter tongue wrench. Be patient and take your time.
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Old Jan 14, 2012 | 08:41 PM
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Sorry, I meant torque wrench....damn. Next time I will take pics.
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