Help with 1 3/4 BB lift
I can get one of these here in my town and they said it was a 1 3/4 inch spacer. Its just the spacers and nothing else for $160 of about $400 installed. I had a quick question about a guy I heard of thats running a BB with his stock spacers...is this a good thing to do? He said he wheels his pretty hard with no problems. I have cut my stock flares and now I bottom out on my wheelwell on my body. Is this a very good price on this stuff? and installation? Or should I hold off and look some more. I just may need a couple inches.
$160.00
i paid $120.00 for my procomp 1.75" BB kit. just the spacers and installation hardware. labor.. cant say. most local shops here charge about $50-$70 per hour for labor. instructions say 4 hours. i'll prolly install it myself if i get a free weekend
i paid $120.00 for my procomp 1.75" BB kit. just the spacers and installation hardware. labor.. cant say. most local shops here charge about $50-$70 per hour for labor. instructions say 4 hours. i'll prolly install it myself if i get a free weekend
The "stock spacers" as you call them are the rubber isolators that keep the metal of the spring from impacting the metal of the spring perch directly, cutting out noise and wear. Almost all budget boosts (spacer-only kits) retain the stock isolators and put the new spacers between the spring perch and the isolators. So, no problem there...
$160 is a little high on a spacer only lift, but not outrageously so. I also am unsure of the labor. If you feel that you are at all capable, I would install the boost yourself. If you can unscrew bolts and have a floor jack you can do it. You do not have to mess with any electrical or hydraulic lines. Just unbolt the trackbar, jack up, take off the wheels, unbolt the shocks, and pull out the springs, put in the spacers, then do the reverse. Very easy.
It is a great way to learn more about your Jeep.
$160 is a little high on a spacer only lift, but not outrageously so. I also am unsure of the labor. If you feel that you are at all capable, I would install the boost yourself. If you can unscrew bolts and have a floor jack you can do it. You do not have to mess with any electrical or hydraulic lines. Just unbolt the trackbar, jack up, take off the wheels, unbolt the shocks, and pull out the springs, put in the spacers, then do the reverse. Very easy.
It is a great way to learn more about your Jeep.
I can get one of these here in my town and they said it was a 1 3/4 inch spacer. Its just the spacers and nothing else for $160 of about $400 installed. I had a quick question about a guy I heard of thats running a BB with his stock spacers...is this a good thing to do? He said he wheels his pretty hard with no problems. I have cut my stock flares and now I bottom out on my wheelwell on my body. Is this a very good price on this stuff? and installation? Or should I hold off and look some more. I just may need a couple inches.
I had a quick question about a guy I heard of thats running a BB with his stock spacers...is this a good thing to do?
I have cut my stock flares and now I bottom out on my wheelwell on my body.
The wheelwell is underneath...the body is ofcourse the body. Alot of people don't understand that fenders...are different than flares. Most people say that cars have motors...they don't they have engines...
.
I'm just saying that my tires are hitting metal...I need to fix that because 35's are not cheap. I'm just said that to try not to confuse anyone I didnt' think it would do the opposite...lol...but yea.
As for a stock spacer, I don't know what my JK has under there but I saw a guy on here talking about a stock spacer so I guess that makes 2 of us that don't know whats under our JK...lol.
I'm still learning guys...so bare with me please.
. I'm just saying that my tires are hitting metal...I need to fix that because 35's are not cheap. I'm just said that to try not to confuse anyone I didnt' think it would do the opposite...lol...but yea.
As for a stock spacer, I don't know what my JK has under there but I saw a guy on here talking about a stock spacer so I guess that makes 2 of us that don't know whats under our JK...lol.
I'm still learning guys...so bare with me please.
Last edited by thumperk15; Nov 28, 2007 at 06:45 AM.
Tomato ~tomoto *L* dont worry about still learning, that's why we are all here as far as i am concerned 
I dont know what your Jeep specs are, but if you are running 35's & no lift, you'll get a lot of rubbing. Even with aftermarket rims & corrected backspacing. So yup, a lift would be needed, i doubt 1-3/4" would be enough to run 35's effectively and remove any rubbing issues offroad (may work if you dont & dont flex it much)
I dont know what your Jeep specs are, but if you are running 35's & no lift, you'll get a lot of rubbing. Even with aftermarket rims & corrected backspacing. So yup, a lift would be needed, i doubt 1-3/4" would be enough to run 35's effectively and remove any rubbing issues offroad (may work if you dont & dont flex it much)
[QUOTE=HappyCurmudgeon;246896]Tomato ~tomoto *L* dont worry about still learning, that's why we are all here as far as i am concerned
QUOTE]
Thats about right. Now, back to the question. I really want a Superlift 4inch lift and I have a source for new shafts, my best buddies dad owns a driveshaft shop...
. Anyways, heres a link for my JK,https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modified-jk-tech-2/need-help-stock-fenders-21473/ and yes your probably right I need more than that but I cut my fenders and I still have more room than I thought, it being a stock JK lift and all.
Also, is there any way you can us part of a quote? LOL, I take some out and it doesn't highlight it anymore. Oh, well
Thats about right. Now, back to the question. I really want a Superlift 4inch lift and I have a source for new shafts, my best buddies dad owns a driveshaft shop...
. Anyways, heres a link for my JK,https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modified-jk-tech-2/need-help-stock-fenders-21473/ and yes your probably right I need more than that but I cut my fenders and I still have more room than I thought, it being a stock JK lift and all.Also, is there any way you can us part of a quote? LOL, I take some out and it doesn't highlight it anymore. Oh, well
Last edited by thumperk15; Nov 28, 2007 at 07:08 AM.
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I dunno know about 35's...but I installed a daystar 1.75" BB that came with spacers (front and back), extended bumpstops and and sway bar relocation bracket, I got mine for 170 bucks in may...they are 119 bucks now...check ebay item number: 180185111323
Seriously...if you can tell what size a wrench is, you can install this kit! It took me and my 5 year old about 2 hours to install the front. Thats all I installed on my unlimited was the front...it had crazy rake and the 1.75" took it all away. Now my JK sits nice and level with 295/75R16's on it. For an extra 150 bucks you can get a set with longer shocks. I would recommend that for sure, mine rides a little rougher now, but its a jeep... if I were looking for ride quality, I would have bought the escalade!


Seriously...if you can tell what size a wrench is, you can install this kit! It took me and my 5 year old about 2 hours to install the front. Thats all I installed on my unlimited was the front...it had crazy rake and the 1.75" took it all away. Now my JK sits nice and level with 295/75R16's on it. For an extra 150 bucks you can get a set with longer shocks. I would recommend that for sure, mine rides a little rougher now, but its a jeep... if I were looking for ride quality, I would have bought the escalade!

One thing to remember....when you compress the suspension, your axle travels upwards without knowing what sized tire you mounted....
So, the hub goes up to the exact same point it would have, with, or without a suspension lift....
.....If the new, larger tire extends upwards by more inches than the older smaller tire, and, that distance is close enough to hit, it will hit.
So, the SL doesn't REALLY make room for larger tires, it just means they have to go through more uptravel to hit on compression, as you raised the ride height.

A BL, or moving the parts that it would hit up higher/removing them, etc...DOES make room for larger tires...1" of extra well clearance allows a 2" increase in tire diameter, etc.
So, if the oem tires are 32" diameter...and when fully stuffed, had an inch of room before hitting left...1" more room under there would allow 35's to just clear/kiss on full stuffage, etc.
If the wells have less room left on full stuffage with the oem's, then the above ratio can be applied, and additional well room arranged for.
Plan B is to install bumpstop extensions...which rob you of uptravel...but, stop the axle from fully stuffing, and prevent the tire from hitting on compression.
The extension of the stop is the same ratio as for the extra room...but the location of the stop on the axle will make a < 1" extension provide > 1" of extra room (Like the part of a sissor between the blades will be closer by the handle, and further apart by the blade tips, etc...)
I'd rather do a small BL than lose wheel travel...but, A Lot of people install bumpstop extensions anyway. No wrong answer, it just depends upon what's important to you.

PS - For the same effort to do the 1.75" BB, you COULD do a 2.5" BB (Teraflex)....and get almost another inch out of it.
http://www.northridge4x4.com/proddet...d=TF-001355210
The 2.5" BB is cheaper per inch than the 1.75" BB, and, includes more items as well.
So, the hub goes up to the exact same point it would have, with, or without a suspension lift....
.....If the new, larger tire extends upwards by more inches than the older smaller tire, and, that distance is close enough to hit, it will hit.
So, the SL doesn't REALLY make room for larger tires, it just means they have to go through more uptravel to hit on compression, as you raised the ride height.

A BL, or moving the parts that it would hit up higher/removing them, etc...DOES make room for larger tires...1" of extra well clearance allows a 2" increase in tire diameter, etc.
So, if the oem tires are 32" diameter...and when fully stuffed, had an inch of room before hitting left...1" more room under there would allow 35's to just clear/kiss on full stuffage, etc.
If the wells have less room left on full stuffage with the oem's, then the above ratio can be applied, and additional well room arranged for.
Plan B is to install bumpstop extensions...which rob you of uptravel...but, stop the axle from fully stuffing, and prevent the tire from hitting on compression.
The extension of the stop is the same ratio as for the extra room...but the location of the stop on the axle will make a < 1" extension provide > 1" of extra room (Like the part of a sissor between the blades will be closer by the handle, and further apart by the blade tips, etc...)
I'd rather do a small BL than lose wheel travel...but, A Lot of people install bumpstop extensions anyway. No wrong answer, it just depends upon what's important to you.

PS - For the same effort to do the 1.75" BB, you COULD do a 2.5" BB (Teraflex)....and get almost another inch out of it.
http://www.northridge4x4.com/proddet...d=TF-001355210
The 2.5" BB is cheaper per inch than the 1.75" BB, and, includes more items as well.
Last edited by TEEJ; Nov 28, 2007 at 07:27 AM.
Hey Teej....
Great post...that was my other suggestion. Do a BL. I did a 3" BL on my wife's chevy and other then a little front end rubbing, ran 35's no problem. That truck as a MEAN stance soming at you down the road now!
Great post...that was my other suggestion. Do a BL. I did a 3" BL on my wife's chevy and other then a little front end rubbing, ran 35's no problem. That truck as a MEAN stance soming at you down the road now!


