Finally Got My Lift
I know this has been covered a thousand times but, I just ordered my new 2.5" Teraflex from Northridge and was wondering if you guys and gals had any great tips for install.
Thanks
Thanks
I used WOL's write up in the Project JK area and it has more than enough information and pictures to guide you through the whole process.
Link: http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...ation-write-up
Link: http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...ation-write-up
I just did the 2.5 bb over thanksgiving. I can't say that I had any problem with anything other than a couple of springs were tough to get out and there is some kind of rubber vent tube on my rear axel running up to the body that was stretched tight when I lowered the axel. I think if you follow the aforementioned write-up you breeze right through it.
1. Make sure the rear passenger bump-stop is pointing forwards or it will not clear the track bar
(I didn't make that mistake).
2. Make sure that your upper bolts on the rear sway bar links are installed from the inside out (long end w/ nut towards tire) or it will not clear the frame
(yep, I made that mistake).
(I didn't make that mistake).
2. Make sure that your upper bolts on the rear sway bar links are installed from the inside out (long end w/ nut towards tire) or it will not clear the frame
(yep, I made that mistake).
I just did the 2.5 bb over thanksgiving. I can't say that I had any problem with anything other than a couple of springs were tough to get out and there is some kind of rubber vent tube on my rear axel running up to the body that was stretched tight when I lowered the axel. I think if you follow the aforementioned write-up you breeze right through it.
It helps to relieve the pressure differential, for example, if a hot diff goes into the water, which would cool it...the cooling air in the diff would contract. This contraction would make the pressure IN the diff lower, and, therefore, make it more likely to SUCK in WATER at the axle tube ends, etc.
The breather allows air to be sucked in from a better path of least resistance up higher, hopefully, out of the water. In reverse, as the diff gets hotter from use, the pressure in the diff would build, and potentially blow out the grease openings, etc....unless you have a breather tube to blow out of instead, etc.

Most lines like that can be unclipped from their original locations...and rerouted with a shorter path, to make enough slack, and then reclipped at the short cut path.


