First, thanks to everyone for sharing so much great info and experience.

I have a 2012 JKU Sport with manual trans, 3.73 gears, 2.71 transfer case, an AEV 2.5" lift, 17" ProComps and 315/70 DuraTracs. While I'm busy adding skids, sliders, lights, etc. I'm also planning to make the jump to 37s. It's a big, expensive, step to do this "right" and I'd like your input. I've done a lot of reading but that only goes so far. Here's my plan:

Step 1 - Drivetrain
ProRock44 Unlimited front
- ARB locker
- Dynatrac ball joints
- RCV axles
- Reid Racing knuckles
ProRock Trail-Series 60 rear
- ARB locker
JE Reel 1350 front and rear drive shafts
4.88 gears

Seems pretty straightforward. What am I missing? Is anything else required to bolt all this up to my current suspension?
Thoughts on the gearing choice? It seems a lot of folks go 5.13 or higher but I'm pretty happy with the 3.73s on my 34" Duratracs and 5-speed. 6th gear is pretty useless, so I think 4.10s would be fine with the current setup, 4.56 might give a nice boost in the giddy up.
What about rear axles?

Step 2 - Wheels and Tires
Step 3 - Upgraded suspension, steering assist.
Step 4 - Atlas?
Step 5 - Divorce (may come earlier)

All guidance is welcome and appreciated.

 

looks good to me. just make sure to get the D60 that is the same width as the PR44, and also know that the D60 and PR44 have diffrent bolt patterns

 

I'm like you. I'll be doing a build to holed 37-38" tires later though. I have other minor things to do first. I just bought my 2012. After building my 350Z up before this I told myself I wouldn't do major mods until its paid off. Im on a 2 year payoff plan then I can have some real fun with her. I bought a jku sport like yours also.

 

Thanks, guys.

Mr. Smiley - are you saying the PR44 and D60 don't have the same bolt patterns as one another or as the stock? And are you talking about the wheel bolt patterns?

Anyone else like to chime in here?
Surely it can't be that "easy." I've read the Reid Racing knuckles require Track Bar Relocation Bracket, Drag Link Flip Kit and After Market Tie Rod and that the clearances are tight on the RCV shafts. Any guidance there?

Also, I'm not keen on doing the 44 front and 60 rear at the same time, but I really hate the idea of paying to re-gear the rear twice. And driving to the shop with the rear DS disconnected after the front is installed to get the rear gears done seems... awkward.

I can turn a wrench and have built a track car, etc. but stop short of fabrication or, in this case, gear installation. I'm planning to do all the other work myself - does that seem reasonable? Aside from the final alignment, is it easy to screw this up? I've read about the pinion angle (to the driveshaft)... just fishing for trouble here.

Thanks!

 

Yes, the D60 has a different bolt pattern than stock. It is 5x5.5 while the PR44 will be 5x5 which is stock.

 

Ah yes, I see that now.
Looks like you have to go to a 44/60 Hybrid front for matching front / rear bolt patterns to allow for spare use and rotation... And new wheels, of course. Does it ever end?

 

No it never ends.. don't you know what Jeep stands for but you don't have to buy hybrid 44/60 axles. Just buy wheel adapters for the front that changes to bolt patter to 5x5.5 here, I will get a link for you.

 

Here is what you need

http://www.spidertrax.com/Jeep-5x5-1...&category=9993

 

I don't know where this started but it is WRONG.

You do not need to change your wheel lug pattern when you go to our ProRock 60 rear. We can do the standard JK lug pattern (5 on 5") on our ProRock 60 rear. We also can do most other common patterns as requested. On our JK rear, we frequently do a dual drill pattern which has both 5 on 5 " AND 5 on 5.5".

 

Opps.. well that's good to know, sorry about that :/