37s and pinch seam
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JK Super Freak
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Gilmanton Iron Works, NH
37s and pinch seam
I know this has been asked a thousand times, and I have searched, but I'm not coming up with what I need.......I have a 4.5" Clayton lift on my rig and just went to 37" BFG KM2s. Needless to say, they don't clear the wheel wells. The lift has adjustable control arms all the way around. I'm trying to figure out how far back I can push the rear axle without creating other problems (track bar out of alignment, etc.). Also trying to figure out how much of the stock Rubi sliders I have to cut and how much pinch seam. If anybody has any of these answers I'd love to hear it. Pics of the pinch seam cut would be a HUGE help. Thanks. 
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From: Rawlins,WY
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JK Super Freak
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Gilmanton Iron Works, NH
I just installed the RK X-Factor which helps adjust for what you are describing. The axle, in my case, got pushed back 1" to help with the potential pinch seam issue and to, basically, recenter the tire in the wheel well.
We also had to move the sway bar back 1" and used a track bar bracket which adjusts for the move as well. It was a lot of work so not sure if lenghtening your control arms 1" will be enough. I'm guessing that without additional modifications, you really can't push the axle back too far. Hopefully someone else can chime in.
Edit** also had to add the coil correction wedges that came with my lift. Otherwise, my coils would have bowing issues.
We also had to move the sway bar back 1" and used a track bar bracket which adjusts for the move as well. It was a lot of work so not sure if lenghtening your control arms 1" will be enough. I'm guessing that without additional modifications, you really can't push the axle back too far. Hopefully someone else can chime in.
Edit** also had to add the coil correction wedges that came with my lift. Otherwise, my coils would have bowing issues.
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JK Super Freak
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Gilmanton Iron Works, NH
Won't work for me. I have axle side track bar relo/reinforcement brackets that move the axle mounting point for the track bar up so that the roll center is improved and the track bar (in front) more closely parallels the drag link.
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JK Super Freak
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From: Gilmanton Iron Works, NH
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JK Jedi
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From: REDONDO BEACH, CA
Originally Posted by skibum
Not averse to it, just looking to minimize it. I live in the salt/rust belt so anything like that is going to cause problems down the road.
If you're that concerned with cutting, the other option is to just bend & hammer (or mallet) it flat against the inside fender well. Hammering will take longer, but you'll get the same end result either way.
JK Enthusiast
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From: Bauxite, AR
If you can get these products this is what I'd recommend for inhibiting rust. If you open the body at all where you cut the seam use windshield urethane to fill the hole. That stuff will not leak and it dries hard as a rock. Also use encapsulating windshield primer to seal the bare metal. Yes it's black but this is the stuff that's used to prime around windshields before the urethane goes on. This stuff is extremely tough and will not flake, chip or come off unless you sand it off with a VERY rough abrasive disc or paper.
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From: walkersville md
Originally Posted by NightRider08JK
If you can get these products this is what I'd recommend for inhibiting rust. If you open the body at all where you cut the seam use windshield urethane to fill the hole. That stuff will not leak and it dries hard as a rock. Also use encapsulating windshield primer to seal the bare metal. Yes it's black but this is the stuff that's used to prime around windshields before the urethane goes on. This stuff is extremely tough and will not flake, chip or come off unless you sand it off with a VERY rough abrasive disc or paper.