questions on how to use the sway bar / axle lock on a 2012 rubicon
Thread Starter
JK Freak
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 730
Likes: 1
From: Maryland
Ok so I just bought a 2012 unlimited rubicon. But I have a couple questions about some features that NO ONE AT TATE JEEP IN FREDERICK ,MD COULD NOT ANSWER WHEN I BOUGHT THE CAR!. What is the sway bar, axle lock used for ? When would I use it ? And what does it do? I'm sorry I don't know this my old jest was a 2 door x with 4" lift and 37" toyo's and did not have those features..
Last edited by Johnny t; Jul 10, 2012 at 06:14 AM.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 345
Likes: 0
From: Kenmore, Washington
Come on guys, the OP asked for some guidance.
Disconnect the front sway bar to increase articulation for true off road trails (not forest roads). This is typically done in low range only and at speed less than 20mph. When switched off it will automatically connect/disconnect when cross over/under 20mph.
Engage lockers when needing maximum traction for short durations to get through tough obstacles, especially rocks, roots and slippery spots. First start with rear which will most likely do the trick and add front only for the most difficult places. It is very difficult to turn with front locked and is very hard on your u joints so it is best to engage front for when going pretty straight and only until you clear the obstacle. I personally try obstacles unlocked and if I can't clear them first lock rear and then if needed front; unless of course it is obvious to me the obstacle requires locking like for example big ledges in Moab.
Hope this helps.
Gary T.
Disconnect the front sway bar to increase articulation for true off road trails (not forest roads). This is typically done in low range only and at speed less than 20mph. When switched off it will automatically connect/disconnect when cross over/under 20mph.
Engage lockers when needing maximum traction for short durations to get through tough obstacles, especially rocks, roots and slippery spots. First start with rear which will most likely do the trick and add front only for the most difficult places. It is very difficult to turn with front locked and is very hard on your u joints so it is best to engage front for when going pretty straight and only until you clear the obstacle. I personally try obstacles unlocked and if I can't clear them first lock rear and then if needed front; unless of course it is obvious to me the obstacle requires locking like for example big ledges in Moab.
Hope this helps.
Gary T.
JK Newbie
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Missouri
The axle lock will make the 2 rear and the 2 front wheels lock together and spin at the same speed. This gets interesting when climbing a hill that has a turn in it. The Rubicon gets harder to steer and tends to walk sideways. Placing the switch on the left was wrong. Makes the driver unable to shift while locking / unlocking the front as needed. Still the best daily driver / off road vehicle made on this Planet.
JK Junkie
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,124
Likes: 1
From: Ontario Canada
Originally Posted by blueice
Come on guys, the OP asked for some guidance.
Disconnect the front sway bar to increase articulation for true off road trails (not forest roads). This is typically done in low range only and at speed less than 20mph. When switched off it will automatically connect/disconnect when cross over/under 20mph.
Engage lockers when needing maximum traction for short durations to get through tough obstacles, especially rocks, roots and slippery spots. First start with rear which will most likely do the trick and add front only for the most difficult places. It is very difficult to turn with front locked and is very hard on your u joints so it is best to engage front for when going pretty straight and only until you clear the obstacle. I personally try obstacles unlocked and if I can't clear them first lock rear and then if needed front; unless of course it is obvious to me the obstacle requires locking like for example big ledges in Moab.
Hope this helps.
Gary T.
Disconnect the front sway bar to increase articulation for true off road trails (not forest roads). This is typically done in low range only and at speed less than 20mph. When switched off it will automatically connect/disconnect when cross over/under 20mph.
Engage lockers when needing maximum traction for short durations to get through tough obstacles, especially rocks, roots and slippery spots. First start with rear which will most likely do the trick and add front only for the most difficult places. It is very difficult to turn with front locked and is very hard on your u joints so it is best to engage front for when going pretty straight and only until you clear the obstacle. I personally try obstacles unlocked and if I can't clear them first lock rear and then if needed front; unless of course it is obvious to me the obstacle requires locking like for example big ledges in Moab.
Hope this helps.
Gary T.
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JK Super Freak
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,385
Likes: 0
From: Grant Florida
Axle locks are just that you can lock front, rear or both for better traction. As far as when to use and not use there are many theories on that. Enough to write a book on you can google it, use it and get your own opinion on it is my suggestion. I have a rubi and love these features and use them all the time. Make damn near impossible to get stuck unless you get hung up on something.
Thread Starter
JK Freak
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 730
Likes: 1
From: Maryland
Originally Posted by blueice
Come on guys, the OP asked for some guidance.
Disconnect the front sway bar to increase articulation for true off road trails (not forest roads). This is typically done in low range only and at speed less than 20mph. When switched off it will automatically connect/disconnect when cross over/under 20mph.
Engage lockers when needing maximum traction for short durations to get through tough obstacles, especially rocks, roots and slippery spots. First start with rear which will most likely do the trick and add front only for the most difficult places. It is very difficult to turn with front locked and is very hard on your u joints so it is best to engage front for when going pretty straight and only until you clear the obstacle. I personally try obstacles unlocked and if I can't clear them first lock rear and then if needed front; unless of course it is obvious to me the obstacle requires locking like for example big ledges in Moab.
Hope this helps.
Gary T.
Disconnect the front sway bar to increase articulation for true off road trails (not forest roads). This is typically done in low range only and at speed less than 20mph. When switched off it will automatically connect/disconnect when cross over/under 20mph.
Engage lockers when needing maximum traction for short durations to get through tough obstacles, especially rocks, roots and slippery spots. First start with rear which will most likely do the trick and add front only for the most difficult places. It is very difficult to turn with front locked and is very hard on your u joints so it is best to engage front for when going pretty straight and only until you clear the obstacle. I personally try obstacles unlocked and if I can't clear them first lock rear and then if needed front; unless of course it is obvious to me the obstacle requires locking like for example big ledges in Moab.
Hope this helps.
Gary T.
Thread Starter
JK Freak
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 730
Likes: 1
From: Maryland
Originally Posted by JKingAround
Axle locks are just that you can lock front, rear or both for better traction. As far as when to use and not use there are many theories on that. Enough to write a book on you can google it, use it and get your own opinion on it is my suggestion. I have a rubi and love these features and use them all the time. Make damn near impossible to get stuck unless you get hung up on something.