Hi guys

I have been reading the threads on replacing the stock control arm and track bar bolts with the correct sized shanked bolts.

This is clearly a great idea. The bolt should be the correct size...... and shanked ALL THE WAY through the frame bracket.

This seems to NOT be the case with the 2 shops i have found who sell a 'kit'.

Looking at the LCA's. The 'kit' bolts are 4". The threaded part should be 1.375" (according to the online info i could find..... i come from a metric country).

So the shanked section should be 2,625". After you have a washer under the bolts head, it will be too short to have the shanked section going completely through the frame bracket.

A 4 1/2" bolt with 2x 'thick' washers looks better..... 1/2" of thread would beed to be cut off, but it should be technically better.

What do you guys think?

Regards
Paul

 

I noticed the same thing. It was a little disappointing.

With the kit I received, the threaded portion was long enough to be inside the joint by quite a bit.
Regular grade 8 bolts are not available in enough different thread lengths to be exactly correct for this application.
AN bolts are available with many different thread lengths, but they are quite a bit more expensive.
I suppose one could get longer bolts with enough grip length to be all the way through, and cut off the excess, per your suggestion.

With the bolts in the kits being sold, it's the increased diameter that is the most beneficial. The shank extends well into the control arm/track bar ends. The threaded portion of the bolt is in one side of the bracket, like you said. Only time will tell if it's going to be a problem. With the proper torque applied, I don't think there will be any issues.

I saw a very large improvement in feel and handling with the two JKs I installed bolt kits in.
As mentioned, I was a little disappointed with the thread length, but I'm sure it's a lot better than the OEM bolts.

 

I pieced my new bolts together from about four different hardware stores in my area. I managed to find bolts that were shouldered all the way through. I don't see the point in changing if they are not.

 

I did the same thing. Piece together what you need and then cut the excess threads off if it bothers you or looks like it will hit something.

CM

 

Hi guys

Thanks for the replies.

So i am not the only crazy OCD perfectionist here.

Out of interest, where the threaded part 1.375" like the 'textbook' says a UNF of 6" and less should be? My experience on metric bolts, is that every manufacturer does their own thing.

My problem is i could not find any 9/16-18 zinc grade 8 bolts in Dubai.
I could find 'black' grade 8 bolts.....
What would you think of a little grease or copper slip on the shank and some paint on the exposed parts?

Regards
Paul

 

I'm working on these bolts as well. I'm not sure of what saltwater mist issues you would run into in Dubai but here in the northeast US we have lots of salt on the roads in winter. I would try the black grade 8 and paint it in your case.

I have found that a 90 mm M14 works well on the track bar frame mount if the nut is placed on the front side. The bolt will hit the pumpkin if the head is in the front per factory style. The 90mm length provides a shank through the bracket with one SAE washer. I'm curious to see how the axle side goes. It also seems easier to torque infront of the axle. Bolt comparison.







I've consider 4 1/2" bolts for the rest of it and band sawing off the excess. Any thought's?

 

Hi guys

We have no salt on the roads in Dubai, but it is a humid, hot, costal environment.

What are the stock bolts? i assume not zinc..... going by the colour...

Would regular grade 8 bolts be the same as stock?

Regards
Paul

 

Grade 8 is an SAE rating, in metric you'll want 10.9 spec. I do believe the factory bolts have zinc on them, just not shiny yellow stuff. I would try the black ones and just keep an eye on them, If they do rust it will take a long time for it to be enough of an issue for you to remove them.

 

Northridge4x4 has a complete kit. Much cheaper and easier than trying to hunt down the correct ones.

 

Hi

The available kits supply bolts that are the correct length...... so the shanked section stops somewhere in the middle, leaving the threaded bit going through the one side of the frame bracket.... as per the loverly pictures above.

This is what i was trying to avoid.

Regards
Paul