First post, suppose I should say hi first.

HI.

OK, so I've got a 2" OME setup on an 08 JKUR, running treadwright 35's on stock rims, spidertrax spacers, ARB F&R bumpers.

Front sits a little lower than rear, and rubs the fenders after installing the spacers (badly) even with the sad amount of flex I'm getting now!

Planning on cutting stock fenders for now, as a stop gap to decide what I want to do, but I really need to get more flex than I've got now, I'm coming from a built up H3 that (believe it or not) had notably more flex than this (the 3 was completely disconnected F&R)... I know much more can be had from this!

At this point my plan was to get some swaybar links for a 4" lift (the measurement on the 4" ones seems like what I would want to return the rear to horizontal) for the rear, then move the rears to the front. I was planning on making a bracket for the rear line, to drop it a couple inches, ans re-bend the brake line lightly.


Basically, I'm looking for the flaws in my plan, and/or better ways to do this without dumping a bunch of cash right off the bat. It's pretty much sled season here in the mountains, and I'll be spending my money on boost & race gas rather than on the Jeep, so I was looking at this as a temporary measure to get me through the fall, and into next summer, so I can decide what i really want to do with this, and see what I have for finances (IE, how much sleds cost me this winter!) to decide where I want to go.

Btw... couple shots of my rig.





Here's a shot of what I'm talking about... kinda funny to see that little flex!




Now, it did very well in Moab... but here in CO (I live right next to spring creek trail) I need (or, I should say want) a little more articulation.

Kaleb


Edit: btw, sorry if this has been asked, but I did a few searches & came up with very little pertinent information.

 

This may not help with your set up but...do you have swaybar disconnects?

 

Not currently. I don't drive on road much, so just leaving it disconnected isn't an issue for me (didn't connect the 3 for 4 months... and that's way more tippy than this thing)

My issue with disconnecting though, is the rear brake line is VERY taught with it sitting on a lift, and I'm not sure how much I would need to extend the lines or move the bracket down to be "safe"... so I'm real hesitant to do that without some guidelines.


If I can get the lines to where I know I'm OK, I'm fine with just disconnecting permanently, most of the trails I run are about 3 min from my house, and I can always simply reconnect the front for trips to Moab.

 

What shocks are you running: stock, OME regular, OME long travel?

Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk 2

 

The shocks that came with the 2" OME kit. Previous owner had it installed, receipt showed this kit & install cost, nothing else.




Doesn't specify the length anywhere I can find... and their website is horrid!!!


I'd assume regular since it's such a mild lift... but can't say that with authority.


Btw, when the links are at full extension the shocks appear to have about 1-1.5" of travel left just based on where the ones in the pic are topping out. I'm just starting to see the taper at the end of the inner tube at that point.

 

Longer shocks, extend brake lines, no rear sway bar also gives another few inches of travel. Abs lines have lots of slack that can be pulled out. As far as the brake lines, get lines for a 4" lift and you'll be fine. Ask NorthRidge4x4 or 4WD for pricing...

Use a hi-lift jack or ramp to see how far you can lift while keeping 3 tires on the ground. Then you can see what rubs or any potential issues.

 

Don't want to do shocks now, as I'm planning on doing more to this later, so don't want to spend the $$ on shocks as a stop gap measure... just looking to get the most of what I've got for now so that I can decide how much further I want to take it. Once I decide on a 4" or whatever setup next year, then I'l get shocks that work with that setup.

 

Those shocks should give enough droop - with front sway discoed. Check that the bump stops are not too "much", ie, are appropriate given your tires. Should ideally allow al,ost contact on full stuff to maximize full travel.

I added teraflex 1 inch pucks to my ome 2inch hd after settling to give me an even 3 inches. With track bars, adj arms, and brake line repos flex is very nice and enuf room for 37s

 

Simply unbolt the lower bolt of a front and rear shock and let it extend and measure the extended length. If they are about 24" they are the standard ones, if they are about 27" they are LT.
If they are the standard ones, there is not a lot you can do to increase articulation. The standard OME shocks are very short, not a whole lot longer tante stock shocks. Chances are you can run much longer shocks with those coils, add some brake line drop brackets, extended sway bar links, bump stops and then you will get more travel.

 

You've got a Rubicon so you have E disconnect in the front. When you disco, it won't look like it, but it discos in the motor region in the middle of the bar.

Longer links in the rear would be applicable, or just run with no sway bar in the rear. I have not done this, but others here have. That way you can put your stock rears on your front now.

Most lift kits only come with longer rears and tell you to move your stock rears to the front. So buying new rears to put currents on front would also be applicable.

Brake line bracket extenders can be made for $5 at Lowes or Home Depot.

I would suggest finding a buyer for your shocks and buying some shocks for a 2.5" or 3" or 3.5" lift. You can buy some from a member usually. I just bought a set of 4" shocks from a member for $105 shipped to my door.

ABS lines, pull some more slack out.