Moving CO to UT, going to 37s...Need Advice
So I'm going to lift my DD 2010 6-spd JKUR in the next month. I'm moving from Krawlerado to Utah due to a job change.
1. I've decided on going with the BFG KM2 37s.
2. I'm pseudo-undecided on the lift, but 4.5", and I would rather not weld (as the last time was metal shop in high school many moons ago).
3. Gears, will come in time if I don't like the 4.10 performance.
Jeep is driven about 90% on the highway/city, 10% (every other wkd) in the mountains wheeling. So streetability/driveability is a must. Don't care about MPGs though...it's a Jeep. I'm looking at AEV 4.5" RS as the primary lift kit. RK doesn't seem to make anything in the 4" range (either 3.5 or 5.5). Trail Master I'm unfamiliar with. I read a few forums on various lifts, but there are 10x the amount of opinions as there are lift kits and combinations of them. Why should I not go with the AEV 4.5" RS with BFG KM2 37" tires?
1. I've decided on going with the BFG KM2 37s.
2. I'm pseudo-undecided on the lift, but 4.5", and I would rather not weld (as the last time was metal shop in high school many moons ago).
3. Gears, will come in time if I don't like the 4.10 performance.
Jeep is driven about 90% on the highway/city, 10% (every other wkd) in the mountains wheeling. So streetability/driveability is a must. Don't care about MPGs though...it's a Jeep. I'm looking at AEV 4.5" RS as the primary lift kit. RK doesn't seem to make anything in the 4" range (either 3.5 or 5.5). Trail Master I'm unfamiliar with. I read a few forums on various lifts, but there are 10x the amount of opinions as there are lift kits and combinations of them. Why should I not go with the AEV 4.5" RS with BFG KM2 37" tires?
B_Hall
Where are you moving to in UT? ---> Somewhere between Brigham City and North SLC. Ogden perhaps?
Thanks. I just looked up the BFG KM2 and GY MTRs for 17" wheels...specs are almost identical (on tirerack.com). Same overall diameter, revs/mile, only a 4 pound weight difference (KM2s 70/MTRs 74), but KM2s about $20 more/tire & seem to have better reviews and surveys. The Toyos, on the other hand are signifcantly heavier for the same wheel size (93 lbs), but it's also an inch wider.
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I would stick to around 4 to 5 inches on the lift so you don't loose your uptravel..I run 4.25 for my wheels backspace and it works well for both my 37 inch toyos and my 39 inch krawlers..I would ditch both axles as soon as possable or at bare min pr44 the front and 35 spline and arb the rear...for driveshafts I run tom woods and would recomend them to anyone...also you will want to adress your steering sooner than later.there is a lot of nice wheeling out there,good luck with your build
I would stick to around 4 to 5 inches on the lift so you don't loose your uptravel..I run 4.25 for my wheels backspace and it works well for both my 37 inch toyos and my 39 inch krawlers..I would ditch both axles as soon as possable or at bare min pr44 the front and 35 spline and arb the rear...for driveshafts I run tom woods and would recomend them to anyone...also you will want to adress your steering sooner than later.there is a lot of nice wheeling out there,good luck with your build
Kinda what I was thinking, about 4 and quarter on the backspacing. But one question for ya, is the AEV high steering kit w/steering dampener that comes with the RS 4.5" lift kit what you are talking about that will address my steering? Or is there something else that you would recommend to be done? THanks, I'm a lil' bit of a newbie when we're talking about steering components.



