Time & Trouble Body Lift?
I just bought a new 2013 2d JK with an automatic trans a couple of weeks ago. This is my DD and was thinking about a 1 1/4" body lift with a 1" spacer lift so it wouldn't change the suspension very much. How much time on average does it take to install a body lift, and are there any drawbacks to the body lift other than the gap?
Thanks!!!
Thanks!!!
I just bought a new 2013 2d JK with an automatic trans a couple of weeks ago. This is my DD and was thinking about a 1 1/4" body lift with a 1" spacer lift so it wouldn't change the suspension very much. How much time on average does it take to install a body lift, and are there any drawbacks to the body lift other than the gap?
Thanks!!!
Thanks!!!
No gap if you get the Rough country kit. They give you brackets to raise your rear bumper.
A bench grinder or a vice with a hacksaw is helpful because you have to grind two of the factory washers
I used locktite on my bolts
A block of wood to go between your jack and your body when lifting it
A breaker bar makes it a little easier to get the factory bolts out.
It's a fun,easy mod. Good luck
Edit: your JK only has 8 body mounts. Earlier JKs had two extras. Don't be confused when you can't find the extra two near the rear axle. They aren't there.
Install time was about three hours but I was not in a hurry and I wasted alot of time looking for the extra body mounts that were not there.
A bench grinder or a vice with a hacksaw is helpful because you have to grind two of the factory washers
I used locktite on my bolts
A block of wood to go between your jack and your body when lifting it
A breaker bar makes it a little easier to get the factory bolts out.
It's a fun,easy mod. Good luck
Edit: your JK only has 8 body mounts. Earlier JKs had two extras. Don't be confused when you can't find the extra two near the rear axle. They aren't there.
Install time was about three hours but I was not in a hurry and I wasted alot of time looking for the extra body mounts that were not there.
Last edited by LidLess07X; Jan 26, 2013 at 05:06 AM.
Here's how I've always thought of body lifts (and I've run them on multiple rigs): It's a tool to dial in your tire size relative to your suspension lift. In other words, run the smallest suspension lift you can to clear your chosen tire size. Then use a body lift if you need further clearance for tires when they're fully stuffed in the wheel wells.
I don't personally believe a body lift should be the primary portion of a lift, but I think it's great if you need it to fully dial your rig in.
I don't personally believe a body lift should be the primary portion of a lift, but I think it's great if you need it to fully dial your rig in.
Moving the jeep up 1.25 inches of the body requires no hose or wire modifications needed. Just the stickshift on manual jeeps
The same "what ifs" can be said about suspension lifts. What ifs like driveshafts, control arms,track bars, pitman arms, draglinks, Etc.
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I agree with it should come after a suspension lift but I guess it really is a matter of your budget. We did a daystar one on my buddys 2012 2dr and a week later we took it off because the spacers squeaked so bad going over bumps he was embarrassed
I have a 12 with the rc 1.25 bl and 1.75 coil spacer in the front and .75 rear and its a good combo for my 35" Nitto tires.
That being said I am pulling this setup out to install a 3" full traction lift with .75 spacers front and rear to compensate fot the aev bumpers
That being said I am pulling this setup out to install a 3" full traction lift with .75 spacers front and rear to compensate fot the aev bumpers
No squeeks on my Rough Country. I had a squeek at first but quickly remembered that I disregarded the instuctions where they said to grind down the two washers or they will squeek.
I pulled the two washers, ground them down, and re-installed.
No squeeks
I pulled the two washers, ground them down, and re-installed.
No squeeks


