Hot oil light? Help
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JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 108
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From: san jose, ca
Hot oil light? Help
my hot oil light has come on twice now. Both times on a paved up hill road to my private range. Im in two wheel drive as it is a paved road and not a steep incline. It gets hot and goes well limp mode from what ive read. What is the cause of it should i be in a differnt gear or drive. Any help would be great. Thanks
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 398
Likes: 0
From: Miami, Florida
Its a problem, a big one. A cheap, easy, fast solution is go to an auto parts store and but an aftermarket auxiliary oil cooler.doesn't mater which kind, just get the biggest one cause why not. Buy around six foot of transmission tubing and the connector nipples to go with it. You'll need two. Total cost of everything is maybe seventy bucks. Take your grill off and use thick ass zip ties to mount the oil cooler in front of radiator and splice the new tubing into the old ones. Tada! Total work time ten minutes. Don't forget to add extra tranny fluid. Just read the write up on it here in the forums . Not only will this solve your overheating oil issue forever but also stop the blast furnace effect coming from the tunnel due to the torque converter imitating a small sun.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,715
Likes: 11
From: Olympia, WA
If you are going up hill in a JK automatic, then OD is off anyway.
You didn't say what your road speed was, or how many RPM the engine was turning. If you could shift down one gear without the engine screaming, then the torque converter wouldn't slip as much and less heat would be generated. If the grade is steep and the altitude is high, you might need 3500-4000 RPM on the engine to keep the torque converter from acting like a 1951 Buick Dynaflow.
But the best permanent solution is an auxiliary transmission oil cooler.
You didn't say what your road speed was, or how many RPM the engine was turning. If you could shift down one gear without the engine screaming, then the torque converter wouldn't slip as much and less heat would be generated. If the grade is steep and the altitude is high, you might need 3500-4000 RPM on the engine to keep the torque converter from acting like a 1951 Buick Dynaflow.
But the best permanent solution is an auxiliary transmission oil cooler.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 471
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
If you are going up hill in a JK automatic, then OD is off anyway.
You didn't say what your road speed was, or how many RPM the engine was turning. If you could shift down one gear without the engine screaming, then the torque converter wouldn't slip as much and less heat would be generated. If the grade is steep and the altitude is high, you might need 3500-4000 RPM on the engine to keep the torque converter from acting like a 1951 Buick Dynaflow.
But the best permanent solution is an auxiliary transmission oil cooler.
You didn't say what your road speed was, or how many RPM the engine was turning. If you could shift down one gear without the engine screaming, then the torque converter wouldn't slip as much and less heat would be generated. If the grade is steep and the altitude is high, you might need 3500-4000 RPM on the engine to keep the torque converter from acting like a 1951 Buick Dynaflow.
But the best permanent solution is an auxiliary transmission oil cooler.
Transmission cooler is definitely the best fix and was one of my first mods.
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JK Freak
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 776
Likes: 1
From: Woodstock, Georgia
Its a problem, a big one. A cheap, easy, fast solution is go to an auto parts store and but an aftermarket auxiliary oil cooler.doesn't mater which kind, just get the biggest one cause why not. Buy around six foot of transmission tubing and the connector nipples to go with it. You'll need two. Total cost of everything is maybe seventy bucks. Take your grill off and use thick ass zip ties to mount the oil cooler in front of radiator and splice the new tubing into the old ones. Tada! Total work time ten minutes. Don't forget to add extra tranny fluid. Just read the write up on it here in the forums . Not only will this solve your overheating oil issue forever but also stop the blast furnace effect coming from the tunnel due to the torque converter imitating a small sun.
ten minutes? It's not a day long job but it will take you longer than ten minutes. Give yourself an hour or so and google it for write up so you can ensure you route the tubing correctly into and out of the cooler.
and don't ziptie it in. when you find some write ups they will show you some options to install in with self tapping screws.