Ideal suspension....LCoG + lots of articulation/flex...
The title explains what I am shooting for with my JK (Unlimited). It is going to be an "every other-daily driver", but when I go off road, it will be in fun places like Moab, etc....so I want to be able to hang with my group on the tough stuff. I want to stay with 35s for now, and would likely move up to 37s down the road. Originally, I was thinking 4" FT LA.....would probably fit the bill perfectly.....but I really would prefer a lower ride height if possible. Starting with something like a 2-3" lift, doing longer shocks, the right bump stops, and adj. control arms (maybe long arms?), am I asking for a lot of trial and error to get the right setup? Im planning on tube fenders as well...this will hopefully give me the room for big tires without a huge lift....any ideas/advice? Thanks!
I am running the Full Traction Ultimate 3" with 35's. My JK is my daily driver. I have had it for 1 year and it has 34,000 miles and counting. I could not be happier with the ride. On the weekends I wheel it pretty hard. and it is always up to the test. If you are planning on a winch up front I would suggest the HD front springs.
Hope this helps.
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Last edited by CLACKEY(_!_); Jan 28, 2008 at 10:03 PM.
I was thinking the same thing for my 2 door rubicon. A good 2" spring lift along with using the acos adjustable bumpstops and spring perches would allow you to have adjustability of ride height from 2-4 inches and adding the longest shocks you could would give you the droop you needed. If you then had high clearance fenders you could decrease your bumpstops to the limit of your shocks and get the most from your suspension.
Sounds good but I am not sure the benefits would be enough to justify it. It may be better just to put a 3" FT or similar on.
Sounds good but I am not sure the benefits would be enough to justify it. It may be better just to put a 3" FT or similar on.
For me running old fire roads, stream crossings and off camber the tires can dictate where you can go more than articulation. I know that w/ more lift you can raise the undercarraige but mostly its the tires that get you over a downed tree, over a rock ina stream and low cog from rolling over on an off camber trail.
Tall tires increasing the distance from ground to vitals w/ lowcog is better than tall tippy rig w/ high cog, I dont need to stuff my tires that often.
Tall tires increasing the distance from ground to vitals w/ lowcog is better than tall tippy rig w/ high cog, I dont need to stuff my tires that often.
Last edited by guinness; Jan 29, 2008 at 02:20 PM.
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JK Freak
Joined: May 2007
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From: ENGLEWOOD, COLORADO
This is currently my dream as well. A lower lift height but room for 35-37's and tons of flex.
I have completely driven myself insane with all of the different variables. At this point I think the best option would be to go with a minimal but effective lift 2-3inches..and 35's. Eventually the aftermarket will come out with real tube fenders that will allow 37's. When rev-111 was still in business this is how they had their jk set up. 2.5inch bb and 37's. They told me that they wheeled the hell out of it without driveline issues and no rubbing!!!
Patientce daniel son, patientce.
hope that helped.
I have completely driven myself insane with all of the different variables. At this point I think the best option would be to go with a minimal but effective lift 2-3inches..and 35's. Eventually the aftermarket will come out with real tube fenders that will allow 37's. When rev-111 was still in business this is how they had their jk set up. 2.5inch bb and 37's. They told me that they wheeled the hell out of it without driveline issues and no rubbing!!!
Patientce daniel son, patientce.
hope that helped.
Yeah - Low COG, but bigger tires are the way to go...35's are a workable, practical tire size for the D44's, etc.
ONLY larger diameter tires lift the ENTIRE truck, including the axles/diffs...which are what typically do get snagged from below anyway.
As 33's fit with NO Lift...and 35's only protrude another inch more than 33's...a 1" BL is enough to clear 35's. Sure, a suspension lift gives better ride height, and improves frame clearance/break over angle, etc....but, the tires still stuff UP to the same point, with, or without a SL.

So - A BL will net the most bang for the buck as far as tire clearance goes...
As for articulation....no help.....the shocks seem to be too short....and then the brake/breather lines, and then the CV's bind, etc. So - The next step is to loosen up the suspension/drive train there....and free up some articulation.
ONLY larger diameter tires lift the ENTIRE truck, including the axles/diffs...which are what typically do get snagged from below anyway.
As 33's fit with NO Lift...and 35's only protrude another inch more than 33's...a 1" BL is enough to clear 35's. Sure, a suspension lift gives better ride height, and improves frame clearance/break over angle, etc....but, the tires still stuff UP to the same point, with, or without a SL.

So - A BL will net the most bang for the buck as far as tire clearance goes...
As for articulation....no help.....the shocks seem to be too short....and then the brake/breather lines, and then the CV's bind, etc. So - The next step is to loosen up the suspension/drive train there....and free up some articulation.
If you want the best of both worlds you can always go with an AiRock system. THis would give you decent flex with a low COG. It may be pricey, but when compared to any other lift and an onboard air sstem it seems more affordable.


