Hey everyone...

I'm in the decision process of a few upgrades and looking to make the right decisions...so I've come to the group to get some insight.

I'm currently running on a Teraflex BB and really have no short term plan on upgrading my lift and suspension. I'm looking to upgrade tires and wheels, since the tread on the stock tires is finally getting low enough to justify the upgrade. I'm comfortable with upgrading to 33's on a 16" wheel, but I'm considering 35's on a 16" wheel.

This is a DD that sees the desert trails at least 1x week and as the summer approaches here in the desert it will see a solid 2 days a week in the high country, which is a good mix of rock and forest trails.

I'm already disappointed with the performance when climbing mountain highways, and now coupled with the upgrade to 33's or possibly even 35's I know I need to do something. It seems the approach is to regear. In addition, I'd like the ability to haul a 4500lb travel trailer with it too.

Should I be moving to 4:10's? What does everyone recommend based on experience? What should I expect in terms of cost for a regear? And, are there other items I need to consider upgrading too, like brakes?

Thanks in advance, guys...

CB

 

Depends on year of jeep with gearing. Pre 12 I would say minimum of 4.88 or 5.13 post 12 4.56 to 4.88 depending how often you tow that trailer. Trailer is technically over limits of jku(although 2 dealers told me were "fine" up to 5000) diff have trailer brakes. Other stuff should be sleeves and gussets or truss and gussets. Cost without lockers go anywhere from 1000-3000 for both axles

 

Thanks for the feedback.

I should have said its a 2011 JKU.

 

Sorry but no way you are pulling 4500 pound trailer. The JKU is rated for 3500. You might be able to pull 4500 pounds but not going to stop it very well. regearing will not make a difference especially with bigger tires. If you are unhappy with stock performance, regearing with bigger tires is only going to bring power back to stock like feel. If you want more power and bigger towing capacity, you are looking at an engine swap.

Edit** It's also against the law to tow more than stated rating even if a "dealer" says it can pull more.

 

There is some info to start with in the FAQs at the top of this section. Suggestions, gearing charts, etc.

Didn't notice if you are auto or manual? The ratio advice will depend on that. (manual and 35's, probably 4.56 or 4.88. For auto and 35's, 5.13's - or even 5.38's if you decide to swap in a front 44)

For the towing, my suggestion would be to upgrade your insurance company to someone you know will stand behind you after you get in an accident towing more than the vehicles max limit...
(Properly set up, the weight shouldn't be a problem, but the out of pocket will kill you if you ever do get in an accident.)

Regear cost varies by area. Some places are as low as $800-$1000 (a few shops in Texas and Cali), $1500-$1600 or so is fairly average around me, and some folks back east report $2000-$2500 for their re-gears.

Start thinking about add-ons when you get the gears done. That is a good time to add lockers/limiteds, get gussets welded on, or pull the axle for truss or sleeves.

 

I'm less concerned about pulling the trailer.

 

Thank you for pointing out the charts. It's a 2011, JKU auto transmission.

 

Ok then...

In that case, if you have an auto and run 35's, you'll want 5.13's. 4.10's suck with 35's driving up and down hills. Of course, 5.13's with 35's will be like 3.73's with 32's so.....

Cost in your area is probably between $1000 and $1500 for total job (gears plus install...depends on where you buy the gear sets)

Oh, and get a big brake kit. And as nthinuf suggested, a bigger insurance policy or one that won't hold you at fault for pulling almost 30% more than the max rating. Can't provide any advice for when you get pulled over by the police.....not sure how AZ is but in MA, you will get pulled over if the trailer looks remotely too big for the vehicle.

My brother in law pulls a 3000 pound camper with his Sahara on 35's and 5.13's and cannot get above 65 for the most part on flat service. Driving in the Berkshires in western MA and it is quite comical following him as he fluctuates between 65 and 35 depending on hills.

 

Great feedback. Thank you for taking the time.


I feared the trailer would never be feasible for a jeep tow (without the engine swap), but I have a Titan to handle it. The silver lining of using it instead will be the peace and quiet with the wife and kid following behind in the jeep. The glass is always half full over here.

So, with a regear there really isn't any required upgrades that MUST coincide with it? I'm not looking to take shortcuts at all. I just want to understand enough not to be raked over the coals when I make the purchase.

 

Nothing that 'must' coincide, but as noted above, you have some decisions to make. You save labor costs when adding traction devices and/or strengthening the housing while everything is torn apart for the gears.

For the re-gear itself, you need to decide on ratio and brand, and whether you want to use basic or master install kits. (the basic kits do not include new bearings --> new bearings are a good thing!) There are many opinions on the best way to break in new gears. (drive 15 or 30 minutes, then pull over to let the gears cool. Don't tow for the first 500 miles. Oil changes after 500 miles. That kind of stuff) Your best bet there is just follow the installers instructions, since they are the ones that will be fixing or replacing any failures.