high clearance rear... 8"+ up and in 4“ on frame...
Thread Starter
Former Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,748
Likes: 1
From: Oceanside - san diego, Ca.
Ended up using the stock frame cross member....
Ground out the frame rails from it and then used a extension hitch and cut off the length I needed...
Flipped the cross member over so it went up instead of down then notched it for the hitch....the pic of the hitch does not show all the gusseting and overlapped steel that was done....
Flipped it cut off the body mount pockets ground frame smooth and then put the cross member in, started the angles and plating I'll finish it tomorrow or Saturday.
Putting angles on it to slide off stuff and will do the sides after I finish plating in the inner sides...this thing will not move....
Here's how it started




Here's how it looks

28" from ground to hitch which is lowest part aside of frame rails

Giutted the rear jack storage to allow the clearance



This shows how far up flipping the cross me bear and then notching the hitch in gives you...its at least 8"+ higher now the ground clearance back there is huge.
Ground out the frame rails from it and then used a extension hitch and cut off the length I needed...
Flipped the cross member over so it went up instead of down then notched it for the hitch....the pic of the hitch does not show all the gusseting and overlapped steel that was done....
Flipped it cut off the body mount pockets ground frame smooth and then put the cross member in, started the angles and plating I'll finish it tomorrow or Saturday.
Putting angles on it to slide off stuff and will do the sides after I finish plating in the inner sides...this thing will not move....
Here's how it started




Here's how it looks

28" from ground to hitch which is lowest part aside of frame rails

Giutted the rear jack storage to allow the clearance



This shows how far up flipping the cross me bear and then notching the hitch in gives you...its at least 8"+ higher now the ground clearance back there is huge.
I did something similar to yours. Cut the rear cross member off, and raised the hitch.
The lowest point of my rear bumper is about 3/4" below the frame rail.

The weight savings and approach angle is much better this way.
I went from a 140# spare tire and 160# bumper tire carrier, and this weighs in at 54#
The lowest point of my rear bumper is about 3/4" below the frame rail.

The weight savings and approach angle is much better this way.
I went from a 140# spare tire and 160# bumper tire carrier, and this weighs in at 54#
Thread Starter
Former Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,748
Likes: 1
From: Oceanside - san diego, Ca.
I did something similar to yours. Cut the rear cross member off, and raised the hitch.
The lowest point of my rear bumper is about 3/4" below the frame rail.

The weight savings and approach angle is much better this way.
I went from a 140# spare tire and 160# bumper tire carrier, and this weighs in at 54#
The lowest point of my rear bumper is about 3/4" below the frame rail.

The weight savings and approach angle is much better this way.
I went from a 140# spare tire and 160# bumper tire carrier, and this weighs in at 54#
Never done a plate bumper done lots of tubes on race trucks and pre runners so figured I'd give the angles a try....it is literally up there lol....its a minimum 8" Ill measure the factory bumper and hitch....
Thread Starter
Former Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,748
Likes: 1
From: Oceanside - san diego, Ca.
Thread Starter
Former Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,748
Likes: 1
From: Oceanside - san diego, Ca.


