Eibach Lowering Coil Springs Review
I wanted to reduce body roll and nose dive and got the Eibach Lowering Coil Springs kit from Quadrotec. On smooth roads, the ride was much better and smoother than stock Sahara springs, no nose dive, no body roll. The Jeep is 1.5-2 inches lower and the height makes it perfect to enter the vehicle for a 5'7" and higher people, without climbing into it. 4 year old kids can now go up in the vehicle on their own.
The coils are 1.5mm thinner than stock and was immediate question mark. Installation is easy if you are just installing the springs and shocks and correcting the modified geometry of the suspension. I installed the coils with new Bilstein 5900 shocks.
The front coils lower the suspension to the point that the bump stops on each side rest on the axle. The rear coils stay at a small angle, as the axle swings up higher and articulates from the lowering. So ideally the geometry of the suspension should be adjusted after the install. Rear coils have 1.5" travel before the bump stop hits the axle.
On third world roads, like in New York City, the suspension will brake your jaw. The front will transfer the jarring force from any obstacle that traverses the whole road to you immediately, as the only suspension travel in the front is the softness of the bump stops. To address the lack of suspension travel in the front, one needs to either install a leveling kit to raise the front by 1" or shorten the bump stops by cutting, welding, etc. You should never mount any tire bigger than stock or even 31 in. This last part will not be in the instructions or the marketing materials.
The coils are 1.5mm thinner than stock and was immediate question mark. Installation is easy if you are just installing the springs and shocks and correcting the modified geometry of the suspension. I installed the coils with new Bilstein 5900 shocks.
The front coils lower the suspension to the point that the bump stops on each side rest on the axle. The rear coils stay at a small angle, as the axle swings up higher and articulates from the lowering. So ideally the geometry of the suspension should be adjusted after the install. Rear coils have 1.5" travel before the bump stop hits the axle.
On third world roads, like in New York City, the suspension will brake your jaw. The front will transfer the jarring force from any obstacle that traverses the whole road to you immediately, as the only suspension travel in the front is the softness of the bump stops. To address the lack of suspension travel in the front, one needs to either install a leveling kit to raise the front by 1" or shorten the bump stops by cutting, welding, etc. You should never mount any tire bigger than stock or even 31 in. This last part will not be in the instructions or the marketing materials.
To reduce my body roll and nose dive I upgraded the shocks and installed 19/60 springs. It was a minimal amount of lift but really helped the "floppy boat sensation" over speed bumps and pot holes. Plus I won't create a sh*tstorm on this forum for lowering America's most Iconic and Legendary 4x4!
To reduce my body roll and nose dive I upgraded the shocks and installed 19/60 springs. It was a minimal amount of lift but really helped the "floppy boat sensation" over speed bumps and pot holes. Plus I won't create a sh*tstorm on this forum for lowering America's most Iconic and Legendary 4x4!
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Let me understand this:
You lowered it, the ride sucks, and now you need to lift it a bit by going with a levelling kit, on top of coils called "Lowering Coils".
Is that accurate? Wouldn't you be better off just going back to stock and upgrading your shocks?
You lowered it, the ride sucks, and now you need to lift it a bit by going with a levelling kit, on top of coils called "Lowering Coils".
Is that accurate? Wouldn't you be better off just going back to stock and upgrading your shocks?




