Safety Advantages/Disadvantages
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
Safety Advantages/Disadvantages
Ok, this is a dual part question...
First, are there any safety advantages or disadvantages to running a 35" tire over a 33?
Second, same question, different product... Are there any safety advantages or disadvantages to running a 3.5" kit (Fortec/ Rubicon Express 3.5" kit... Comes with shocks, springs, brake line relo's, rear track bar "support", and adjustable front track bar) over 2" spacers (which I currently have now)?
First, are there any safety advantages or disadvantages to running a 35" tire over a 33?
Second, same question, different product... Are there any safety advantages or disadvantages to running a 3.5" kit (Fortec/ Rubicon Express 3.5" kit... Comes with shocks, springs, brake line relo's, rear track bar "support", and adjustable front track bar) over 2" spacers (which I currently have now)?
JK Super Freak
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,331
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, TX
1ST
Advantage: Easier to take on a pot hole with less damage or jarring. Less likely to be stuck miles from the nearest road. Looks cool. Performs off-road better
DIS-Advantage: When you hit water on the street it will pull HARD towards the puddle. Hydroplanes easier. More stress on the axle and can bend the "Cs" just driving around and mild off-roading. Cost more per tire. Worse gas mileage.
2ND
Advantage: Go over curbs and other objects to avoid being "stuck" in traffic. Less likely to scrape off-road. Better sight through traffic as you sit up higher. Less likely to have another vehicle's bumper come through your door in an accident. Looks cool and gets you from point A to point B with less damage off-road and easier.
DIS-Advantage: A broadside accident will flip you on your side as the other vehicle likely will go under you. You are more "tippy" and will have more body sway unless you address roll-center and other things. Worse gas mileage. Takes less driving skill off-road (could be pro or con). Typically greater wear on components as things are running at steeper than factory angles.
If you do it all correctly, there are few "cons" to a lift. Such as "tippy" is not a factory if done correctly.
This sounds like a mom or dad doing some fact finding for the kid. I know I'll pass on my current JK to my kid and have no qualms about their safety outside of the usual parental angst.
Advantage: Easier to take on a pot hole with less damage or jarring. Less likely to be stuck miles from the nearest road. Looks cool. Performs off-road better
DIS-Advantage: When you hit water on the street it will pull HARD towards the puddle. Hydroplanes easier. More stress on the axle and can bend the "Cs" just driving around and mild off-roading. Cost more per tire. Worse gas mileage.
2ND
Advantage: Go over curbs and other objects to avoid being "stuck" in traffic. Less likely to scrape off-road. Better sight through traffic as you sit up higher. Less likely to have another vehicle's bumper come through your door in an accident. Looks cool and gets you from point A to point B with less damage off-road and easier.
DIS-Advantage: A broadside accident will flip you on your side as the other vehicle likely will go under you. You are more "tippy" and will have more body sway unless you address roll-center and other things. Worse gas mileage. Takes less driving skill off-road (could be pro or con). Typically greater wear on components as things are running at steeper than factory angles.
If you do it all correctly, there are few "cons" to a lift. Such as "tippy" is not a factory if done correctly.
This sounds like a mom or dad doing some fact finding for the kid. I know I'll pass on my current JK to my kid and have no qualms about their safety outside of the usual parental angst.
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
JK Super Freak
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,331
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, TX
Heh. Good for you in a desire to be safe.
Ultimately, know thyself and thy vehicle and drive accordingly.
Your questions are akin to driving a Honda Acord coup like a real sports car. Just cause it is low to the ground and quick does not make it a sports car. You have to drive your limits and your vehicles.
Going up 1.5" in lift won't change things too much; however, every JK or any lifted vehicle for that matter, responds to lifts differently.
Oh, ball joints will wear much faster with a 35" tire compared with a 33".
Be prepared financially to chase suspension gremlins to get things dialed in just right. ie bump steer, death wobble, caster, toe, front driveshaft if an auto. (Stick shaft will last you a while though.)
Buy the most complete lift you can afford and get REAL with your end game. Looks? Mild off roading? What do you really do with your JK?
For me, sadly, I'm 90%+ on road. We spend 10 days in Colorado each summer. I use my winch to stretch fence runs, pulling stumps, dragging trees, and other things like that. So it was justifiable. Recover stuck tractor (water table rises unpredictably and ground gives way to swampy mush on occasion.)
Read and read some more. I'd say wait to do anything for at least thirty days. 1) to get more educated. 2) save more $$ for the lift that suits you. 3) a cooling off period to make sure you plan your build so you don't waste $ and do something twice.
Sent from some string and a few tin cans.
Ultimately, know thyself and thy vehicle and drive accordingly.
Your questions are akin to driving a Honda Acord coup like a real sports car. Just cause it is low to the ground and quick does not make it a sports car. You have to drive your limits and your vehicles.
Going up 1.5" in lift won't change things too much; however, every JK or any lifted vehicle for that matter, responds to lifts differently.
Oh, ball joints will wear much faster with a 35" tire compared with a 33".
Be prepared financially to chase suspension gremlins to get things dialed in just right. ie bump steer, death wobble, caster, toe, front driveshaft if an auto. (Stick shaft will last you a while though.)
Buy the most complete lift you can afford and get REAL with your end game. Looks? Mild off roading? What do you really do with your JK?
For me, sadly, I'm 90%+ on road. We spend 10 days in Colorado each summer. I use my winch to stretch fence runs, pulling stumps, dragging trees, and other things like that. So it was justifiable. Recover stuck tractor (water table rises unpredictably and ground gives way to swampy mush on occasion.)
Read and read some more. I'd say wait to do anything for at least thirty days. 1) to get more educated. 2) save more $$ for the lift that suits you. 3) a cooling off period to make sure you plan your build so you don't waste $ and do something twice.
Sent from some string and a few tin cans.
JK Junkie
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,142
Likes: 2
From: Rockwood, TN
I daily drive my Teraflex 2.5" spacer lift 60 miles a day and wheel pretty hard on the weekends. If you get a quality product (not a $10 spacer from pepboys), there is absolutely no difference in safety between a coil and spacer lift. I have 35x12.5x15" KM2's on wheels with 3.75" of back spacing. This combo has made my stance from outside of tire to outside of tire 7" wider than stock. Gives it a really nice stable feel, not the least bit tippy. 
I say go with what your budget allows. I went with this spacer lift for $250 shipped from a forum member (new in box). I think they go for around $370 shipped with the shock extensions. With this kit, you can always upgrade shocks and convert to coil lift later down the road when budget allows. I managed to convert my JK from stock into very wheelable rig on 35's for under $2000 including truss and gussets for the front axle
I say go with what your budget allows. I went with this spacer lift for $250 shipped from a forum member (new in box). I think they go for around $370 shipped with the shock extensions. With this kit, you can always upgrade shocks and convert to coil lift later down the road when budget allows. I managed to convert my JK from stock into very wheelable rig on 35's for under $2000 including truss and gussets for the front axle
JK Junkie
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,142
Likes: 2
From: Rockwood, TN
I daily drive my Teraflex 2.5" spacer lift 60 miles a day and wheel pretty hard on the weekends. If you get a quality product (not a $10 spacer from pepboys), there is absolutely no difference in safety between a coil and spacer lift. I have 35x12.5x15" KM2's on wheels with 3.75" of back spacing. This combo has made my stance from outside of tire to outside of tire 7" wider than stock. Gives it a really nice stable feel, not the least bit tippy.
I say go with what your budget allows. I went with this spacer lift for $250 shipped from a forum member (new in box). I think they go for around $370 shipped with the shock extensions. With this kit, you can always upgrade shocks and convert to coil lift later down the road when budget allows. I managed to convert my JK from stock into very wheelable rig on 35's for under $2000 including truss and gussets for the front axle
I say go with what your budget allows. I went with this spacer lift for $250 shipped from a forum member (new in box). I think they go for around $370 shipped with the shock extensions. With this kit, you can always upgrade shocks and convert to coil lift later down the road when budget allows. I managed to convert my JK from stock into very wheelable rig on 35's for under $2000 including truss and gussets for the front axle
. Forgot you already had a 2" spacer lift. That being said, you could easily run 35's with what you have, I would just trim your stock fenders
