Just go my new J.E. Reel 1350 Driveshaft from David at Northridge. Thanks David.

No instructions, which is fine, but does anybody know the torque value for the axle flange and the transfer case flange?

The 1350 comes with new flanges so you have to remove the stock ones.

 

I'm not sure if there's a write-up on theses or not. Somebody should do one if there isn't.

PM piginajeep if nobody responds. I'm pretty sure he's done this.

 

I'm taking pictures as I go and will do a write up. I can't find one. I still don't have torque values, but I know how tight they were when I removed them.

 

Here is link with some torque values for you.

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...ht=torque+help

 

Thanks man. Your skills are better than mine.

 

Hows the diameter compared to the stock shaft?

 

I installed J.e. Reel front and rear drive shafts over the weekend. the torque on the yoke (transfer case, front and rear is 85-95 ft.lbs) thats the easy part. the torque on the flange front and rear pinion nut. (This torque will vary) and depends on the rotational torque or pre-load on the pinion bearing before you removed the pinion nut. my rotational torque was 20 in.lbs my final nut torque was(190 ft.lbs) to get the same rotational torque that it had before you took it apart,( and if you don't get this part right you will distroy the crush sleeve). put in neutral, remove front wheels , spread brake pads so they don't drag on disc, remove front driveshaft, using a inch pound torque wrench(needle indicator type) that can measure as low as 2 1/2 inch pounds of torque (kd tools p/n 2955) and a 1 1/4socket on the nut, rotate the pinion flange and record how much torque it took to move it (mine took 20 inch lbs to turn the flange). Do this several times so you can get an average. Remove old flange, install new flange, install nut. using a flange holding tool( a 24" piece of angle iron bolted to the flange) tighten pinion nut to about 150 ft/lbs (stop) take a rotation torque reading. continue tightening pinion nut in 5 to 10 ft/lb incriments, checking rotation torque each time until you reach your original rotational torque. I would not go past 210 ft./lbs in fear of distroying the crush sleeve. install new drive line, I used lock tight on the u bolt nuts, tighten with a box-end wrench, how tight, as tight as you can without breaking them, I used a long handle box-end wrench. install wheels and do the same thing on the rear. I recommend road testing after installing only the front and if no noise, vibration or leaks continue and install the rear. Tool list, 1 1/8, 1 1/4, 1 5/16" sockets, pinion flange puller, pinion flange holder, in-lb and ft/lb torque wrenches. note: if you have to buy the tools to do this job it will be cheaper to take it to a shop and have them do the install. good luck

 

Sounds like you went with the 1350's.

 

I used 1310 c.v. heavy duty.

 

Great instructions. Thanks.

I just finished. I only did the rear for now. I destroyed my stock rear drive shaft on a rock. I'll be doing the front in a month or so.

Do you mind if I quote some of your info for a write up? I took pictures along the way. Since you have done both, maybe I could shoot you my pictures and you could do the write up.

Thanks again.