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I'm tired of oil change mess....

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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 08:51 AM
  #1  
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Default I'm tired of oil change mess....

I've been looking into the oil drain valves as opposed to the plug. So far I have found 3; Fram Sure Drain SD2, the Femco-Drain compact , and the Fumoto Qwikvalve.

Any thoughts?
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 09:07 AM
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Not sure if I understand the reasoning here; removing the plug and draining is easy enough to do without causing a mess... its the filter that usually makes a big mess when you remove it (if you have the 3.8 anyways, much easier to cleanly do on the 3.6)
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 8000ft
I've been looking into the oil drain valves as opposed to the plug. So far I have found 3; Fram Sure Drain SD2, the Femco-Drain compact , and the Fumoto Qwikvalve.

Any thoughts?
I have one you can have....it's the fumoto
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 10:01 AM
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why did you chose not to use the Fumoto?

My "con" for it was the idea of the valve getting opened by accident.

I'm liking the Femco even though it is the most costly.

As for "Not sure if I understand the reasoning here; removing the plug and draining is easy enough to do without causing a mess... its the filter that usually makes a big mess when you remove it (if you have the 3.8 anyways, much easier to cleanly do on the 3.6) "
True the filter is a mess but there is no option to NOT to make a mess....but for the plug there is
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 10:12 AM
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I've got the fumoto and I'd be happy to give you some feedback.

I've got the benchmark designs pan (1/4" plate pan) so the drain valve became my weak point. I went out playing in the rocks and managed to snap the nipple off of the fumoto valve, but the valve stayed closed and the threads on the fumoto needed teflon tape to stay sealed up.

On to the 'changing' of the oil.... I average 30k miles a year so the oil changes happen often. I was doing a frequent interval which lead to the purchase of the fumoto. I take the truck out for a drive to get everything up to temperature and then proceed to drain from there. The first couple changes I just flipped the valve and let the oil flow. It is cleaner, no doubt. It also takes a lot longer to change the oil since you're opening up a much smaller valve for the oil to flow. I wasn't impressed with the fluid just pissing out of the bottom of the jeep so I put a 4' hose on the nipple and changed it that way a couple times. It was still slower than shit but not nearly as messy since I could direct the hot oil directly into a catch can. Well that works great for a little bit but the oil flows super crazy insanely slow when it's almost a lateral move into the jug as you creep up on the top of the can.


Overall- fantastic idea, I really wanted it to work, but the small valve size just slows the flow to the point where it takes forever to drain the oil.

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 11:09 AM
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I've been using the Fumoto valves for years and they work great.
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 11:36 AM
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Do you have a skid plate protecting the oil pan? I wouldn't run a quick drain with out a skid.
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 12:21 PM
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I use a fumato valve (N-series with hose clip). Works great. It can be a bit slow but I use a large enough receptacle that I can leave it for a while.
Another alternative is a fluid extraction pump like a MityVac. Which is handy for the auto transmission, too.


As for the filter, I make one of these "canoes" and rarely spill a drop. The one is the photo is cut a bit shorter than what I've been using lately. You can experiment for the best fit.
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 12:26 PM
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I had a friend break his quick drain off while wheeling since he didn't have a skid plate. Not a fun experience while out in the woods.
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 12:55 PM
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Wow some great feed back, thanks!!!

I do not, yet, have a skid I am looking into building one as I did with the evap.

Check out this one and see what you think, Femco: Engine Oil and Fluid Drain Plugs & Valves - No-Spill™ Systems , the compact style looks very low profile. the cost is around $50.

I like the way that it is double sealed, the valve itself and then the gasketed brass cap.
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