I pulled it out of the garage today, washed & waxed it, put the soft top up & went to crank it to move it.

Nothing. Dead. Dash cluster lights wouldn't even come on. No lights, no door open dinging, just dead silence & no lights.

I pulled the key in & out several times, shifted through the gears... nothing.

Got out, went inside to do a search on here, went back outside, released then applied the parking brake and then the dash lights came on when put the key in. I was showing the CEL and the )ETC( light. Still wouldn't start.

I took the terminals off of the battery and waited 20 mins or so then tried again. Same thing. Dash cluster lights sometimes, sometimes not. Not even a click when I tried to start it.

I was parked on a slight incline in my driveway and I released the parking brake again. I had my foot on the brake lightly and it rolled a little, making a groaning noise from the light brake application, then I pressed harder on the brake & stopped. When I tried to start it again, it started right up without hesitation. The small, red, security light did come on right before it started, though. It didn't flash but it came on when the rest of the lights on the cluster panel didn't. I don't have a security system other than the stupid transponder key, which I was obviously using.

BTW, the battery is good and it didn't seem to have anything to do with the battery. Could the hill start assist have something to do with it? Could washing it & using F21 on the tires have done something to a sensor? I'm grasping for ideas...

I used my Flashcal & it doesn't read any codes.

Ideas? I don't want to get stranded somewhere...

Thanks!!

[I'm referring to my 2012 JK Sport, manual transmission. Everything stock except my new Level 8 Trackers & 33x12.5x15 Duratracs. I bought it 2 weeks ago with 14,600 miles on it & have put 1000 miles on it.]

And some pictures of her today, for reference.









I also crossposted this info in an attempt to find answers quickly. This has to have happened to others in the exact way.

 

Have your battery tested. Sometimes a bad cell will do that.

 

Also check your ground wires from the battery. A loose ground wire may cause it.

 

I do not have an alarm, remote start, remote locks, power locks, or anything else. It's as basic a 2012 Sport as you can get. Roll down windows, manual locks, manual tranny, etc...

It started fine 3x this morning & again once this afternoon. This evening it was dead again.

When it's dead (no cluster lights, not door ding, etc...) and I press the brake pedal, the cluster lights all come back to life but it won't start.

I tried 2 more batteries tonight with no luck. All the same.

After 1 hr 45 minutes screwing around with it, it cranked. Out of the blue. I moved it into the garage & shut it down. Now the gremlin is back & it won't crank again.

All cluster lights are on EXCEPT the little red security light above the temp gauge. It only came on right as it cranked. Never when it wouldn't crank. I pulled the WCM fuse, waited well over 30 seconds, & tried. I did this several times. I even replaced the fuse with another 20 amp fuse.

I'm up for ideas. WTH does the brake pedal have to do with the cluster lights and ignition power? Why doesn't the security light come one anytime except when it's starting?

 

Mine did the same thing the other night. Started. Put it in gear. Everything dead. Went "holy sh**". Turn the key off and started right back up after that. No problems since. My girlfriend screams "sell this POS! We should have driven the Gallardo!" Haha.

 

I think I got it figured out. There is a small capped port located just to the right of the OBD port under the dash. Apparently this is a dealer installed anti-theft device. If you pull the cap out then the vehicle is disabled.

It was a little loose. As soon as I pushed the cap in tight, everything worked fine.

I would like to find the manufacturer so I can get another cap and a a manual. It's a small black, flat 6 or 8 pin plug. The cap is also flat.

 

Now thats very interesting...Got a Pic?

 

Sounds something like the fuse they pull to prevent parasitic draw when the vehicle is sitting on the lot for long periods of time. I have heard stories about quirky things happening when these are not reinserted properly.

 

When you are done trying all of the small and obvious troubleshooting fixes try this - try flexing the TIPM while a buddy/girl tries the key. Went thru this with two JK's already. The TIPM is the technical name for the fuse box under the hood and give owners **** fits of 2010 thru 2012 JK's all the time. Sadly, the TIPM is mounted in a plastic housing and has a printed circuit board in it that will crack when overtightened. This defect was later updated by Jeep. Pick up or push down slightly one corner or side of the unit while someone tries to crank it over. Went thru hell the first time with this because the dealer would not touch my JK after I did a Hemi upgrade on mine. PM me or post for a follow-up if you cannot figure it out.

 

Here's a pic. It's not as large as it looks in the picture. Maybe 11/4" wide.

No problems since I reseated it. When I pull it out I have the same problems I was seeing the last 2 days. I figure I knocked it a little loose when I was cleaning the interior or putting the doors back on.

I'd still like to get some manufacturers info and another cap just in case.