Newbe needs some advise on JK modifications
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Newbe needs some advise on JK modifications
So I FINALLY have the money available to make some serious modifications to my jeep, I badly need your expertise.
Here’s what I got:
2007 Wrangler 4-door JK Sahara w/6 speed manual
Stock everything except for Smittybilt front bumper, rock guards, winch and aux lights.
Dana 30 Front Axle (stock), Dana 44 HD Rear Axle with 3.21 Axle Ratio (stock)
This Jeep will be a weekend warrior, tough trails but no major rock crawling. I want the suspension to perform very well both on and off the road.
My budget is around 8k and I want to do most of the work myself. (Tempted to have a shop do it but I won’t learn that way).
I haven’t purchased anything yet but here is what I’m thinking.
Suspension Lift: TeraFlex 3" Suspension System with 8 FlexArms with Shocks $2,279
Body Lift: Teraflex (1 inch) $159
TeraFlex Monster HD Forged Front Adjustable Trackbar $244
Tires/Wheels: 35” Mickey Thompson, 5 17x9 with LT315/70R17 Baja MTZ Radial Tires $2,775
Rear Bumper: Olympic 4x4 Rear Smuggler Winch Bumper with Dual Pivot Tire Carrier $1,495
The reason for doing the TeraFlex 3” plus a 1” body lift is because I’d rather not have to replace the driveshafts just to accommodate a 4” suspension lift. Am I wrong here? Would a driveshaft replacement really improve the ride quality or performance?
I understand that I would have to regear from the stock 3.21 gear ratio to a 4.11-4.88, so far I think this is the only thing I’m incapable of doing. Should I have the shop install a rear locker at the same time? Dumb question, is the gear ratio changed on both the front and rear differential?
What else should I have done?
Any advise or recommendations is really appreciated!
Here’s what I got:
2007 Wrangler 4-door JK Sahara w/6 speed manual
Stock everything except for Smittybilt front bumper, rock guards, winch and aux lights.
Dana 30 Front Axle (stock), Dana 44 HD Rear Axle with 3.21 Axle Ratio (stock)
This Jeep will be a weekend warrior, tough trails but no major rock crawling. I want the suspension to perform very well both on and off the road.
My budget is around 8k and I want to do most of the work myself. (Tempted to have a shop do it but I won’t learn that way).
I haven’t purchased anything yet but here is what I’m thinking.
Suspension Lift: TeraFlex 3" Suspension System with 8 FlexArms with Shocks $2,279
Body Lift: Teraflex (1 inch) $159
TeraFlex Monster HD Forged Front Adjustable Trackbar $244
Tires/Wheels: 35” Mickey Thompson, 5 17x9 with LT315/70R17 Baja MTZ Radial Tires $2,775
Rear Bumper: Olympic 4x4 Rear Smuggler Winch Bumper with Dual Pivot Tire Carrier $1,495
The reason for doing the TeraFlex 3” plus a 1” body lift is because I’d rather not have to replace the driveshafts just to accommodate a 4” suspension lift. Am I wrong here? Would a driveshaft replacement really improve the ride quality or performance?
I understand that I would have to regear from the stock 3.21 gear ratio to a 4.11-4.88, so far I think this is the only thing I’m incapable of doing. Should I have the shop install a rear locker at the same time? Dumb question, is the gear ratio changed on both the front and rear differential?
What else should I have done?
Any advise or recommendations is really appreciated!
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 348
Likes: 3
From: Boise, Idaho
Body Lift: Teraflex (1 inch) $159
TeraFlex Monster HD Forged Front Adjustable Trackbar $244
Tires/Wheels: 35” Mickey Thompson, 5 17x9 with LT315/70R17 Baja MTZ Radial Tires $2,775
Rear Bumper: Olympic 4x4 Rear Smuggler Winch Bumper with Dual Pivot Tire Carrier $1,495
The reason for doing the TeraFlex 3” plus a 1” body lift is because I’d rather not have to replace the driveshafts just to accommodate a 4” suspension lift.
Would a driveshaft replacement really improve the ride quality or performance?
Should I have the shop install a rear locker at the same time?
Dumb question, is the gear ratio changed on both the front and rear differential?
What else should I have done?
Maybe flat fenders and a smaller lift to have less issues.
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 165
From: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
Have you found the two threads stickied to the top of this modified area? Great place to start before you throw out a ton of questions.
Low CoG and flat flares are fairly popular these days here. Are you considering flat flares or chopping your current flares? If so, you don't need nearly that much lift. No real need for the body lift, but if you just want extra height, go for it. And if you just like taller lifts, same thing, it's your jeep so go for it.
Yes, gears will need to match front and rear. Unless you want to be permanent 2wd.
A d30 with 3.21's will need a new carrier, as well as the gears/master install kit. The rear 44 will not need a new carrier, just gears and a master kit. Adding traction will depend on your use/needs/budget. If you haven't needed them so far, will you need them in the future? When the gears go in is definitely the right time to add traction, so put some thought into the 'need'. Also consider that you can get a pair of truetracs for less than a single selectable, and that could very well be all the traction you will ever want/need. (and adding a front truetrac, or other full case locker, will take the place of the 'new' open carrier)
Driveshafts depend on more than just lift height. 2.5" does not mean that they will definitely be ok. 4" does not mean that they will definitely fail. Do the research so you know what to look for as part of your regular maintenance, and if one fails, have an idea of whether you want to get a repair kit, or find a take-off from someone who has gone aftermarket, or go aftermarket yourself. (With a 4door, odds are very good that the rear will be fine.)
With a budget, you can also consider piecing together a lift. No need to jump straight in to all 8 arms. You can start with front lowers and rear uppers, and add on later. At 3+", centering the front axle might be a good thing, but not mandatory. And depending on actual lift height, you could be in the range for wanting steering correction also, so look at the various high steer/drag link flip options out there.
Low CoG and flat flares are fairly popular these days here. Are you considering flat flares or chopping your current flares? If so, you don't need nearly that much lift. No real need for the body lift, but if you just want extra height, go for it. And if you just like taller lifts, same thing, it's your jeep so go for it.
Yes, gears will need to match front and rear. Unless you want to be permanent 2wd.
A d30 with 3.21's will need a new carrier, as well as the gears/master install kit. The rear 44 will not need a new carrier, just gears and a master kit. Adding traction will depend on your use/needs/budget. If you haven't needed them so far, will you need them in the future? When the gears go in is definitely the right time to add traction, so put some thought into the 'need'. Also consider that you can get a pair of truetracs for less than a single selectable, and that could very well be all the traction you will ever want/need. (and adding a front truetrac, or other full case locker, will take the place of the 'new' open carrier)
Driveshafts depend on more than just lift height. 2.5" does not mean that they will definitely be ok. 4" does not mean that they will definitely fail. Do the research so you know what to look for as part of your regular maintenance, and if one fails, have an idea of whether you want to get a repair kit, or find a take-off from someone who has gone aftermarket, or go aftermarket yourself. (With a 4door, odds are very good that the rear will be fine.)
With a budget, you can also consider piecing together a lift. No need to jump straight in to all 8 arms. You can start with front lowers and rear uppers, and add on later. At 3+", centering the front axle might be a good thing, but not mandatory. And depending on actual lift height, you could be in the range for wanting steering correction also, so look at the various high steer/drag link flip options out there.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 276
Likes: 0
From: South of heaven
I like the lift and track bar,I would also get a rear track bar and a tie rod and drag link, I would skip the body lift and the rear bumper/tire carrier and do 4.88's with lockers and an artec truss on that front dirty 30.
I have 37's on a Rock Krawler 3 1/2 lift with Ace Flat Fenders and there is plenty of room to stuff the tire so you could do something like that.
Good luck
I have 37's on a Rock Krawler 3 1/2 lift with Ace Flat Fenders and there is plenty of room to stuff the tire so you could do something like that.
Good luck
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JK Jedi Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 165
From: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
Better traction.
Say you pull off to the side of the road and stop, you have the left tires on dry pavement, and the right tires on slick ice. You step on the gas, the two right tires start spinning, and you don't move - because most of the power is going to the path of least resistance - the tires on ice. A locker or limited slip will distribute the power to both tires on the axle, instead of just the one with the least traction.
The JK has an electronic system built in that adds brake pressure to simulate a limited slip. Some people like it, others are not all that impressed.
Say you pull off to the side of the road and stop, you have the left tires on dry pavement, and the right tires on slick ice. You step on the gas, the two right tires start spinning, and you don't move - because most of the power is going to the path of least resistance - the tires on ice. A locker or limited slip will distribute the power to both tires on the axle, instead of just the one with the least traction.
The JK has an electronic system built in that adds brake pressure to simulate a limited slip. Some people like it, others are not all that impressed.
Last edited by nthinuf; Jun 9, 2014 at 05:35 PM.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,644
Likes: 13
From: Albany New York
So I FINALLY have the money available to make some serious modifications to my jeep, I badly need your expertise.
Here’s what I got:
2007 Wrangler 4-door JK Sahara w/6 speed manual
Stock everything except for Smittybilt front bumper, rock guards, winch and aux lights.
Dana 30 Front Axle (stock), Dana 44 HD Rear Axle with 3.21 Axle Ratio (stock)
This Jeep will be a weekend warrior, tough trails but no major rock crawling. I want the suspension to perform very well both on and off the road.
My budget is around 8k and I want to do most of the work myself. (Tempted to have a shop do it but I won’t learn that way).
I haven’t purchased anything yet but here is what I’m thinking.
Suspension Lift: TeraFlex 3" Suspension System with 8 FlexArms with Shocks $2,279
Body Lift: Teraflex (1 inch) $159
TeraFlex Monster HD Forged Front Adjustable Trackbar $244
Tires/Wheels: 35” Mickey Thompson, 5 17x9 with LT315/70R17 Baja MTZ Radial Tires $2,775
Rear Bumper: Olympic 4x4 Rear Smuggler Winch Bumper with Dual Pivot Tire Carrier $1,495
The reason for doing the TeraFlex 3” plus a 1” body lift is because I’d rather not have to replace the driveshafts just to accommodate a 4” suspension lift. Am I wrong here? Would a driveshaft replacement really improve the ride quality or performance?
I understand that I would have to regear from the stock 3.21 gear ratio to a 4.11-4.88, so far I think this is the only thing I’m incapable of doing. Should I have the shop install a rear locker at the same time? Dumb question, is the gear ratio changed on both the front and rear differential?
What else should I have done?
Any advise or recommendations is really appreciated!
Here’s what I got:
2007 Wrangler 4-door JK Sahara w/6 speed manual
Stock everything except for Smittybilt front bumper, rock guards, winch and aux lights.
Dana 30 Front Axle (stock), Dana 44 HD Rear Axle with 3.21 Axle Ratio (stock)
This Jeep will be a weekend warrior, tough trails but no major rock crawling. I want the suspension to perform very well both on and off the road.
My budget is around 8k and I want to do most of the work myself. (Tempted to have a shop do it but I won’t learn that way).
I haven’t purchased anything yet but here is what I’m thinking.
Suspension Lift: TeraFlex 3" Suspension System with 8 FlexArms with Shocks $2,279
Body Lift: Teraflex (1 inch) $159
TeraFlex Monster HD Forged Front Adjustable Trackbar $244
Tires/Wheels: 35” Mickey Thompson, 5 17x9 with LT315/70R17 Baja MTZ Radial Tires $2,775
Rear Bumper: Olympic 4x4 Rear Smuggler Winch Bumper with Dual Pivot Tire Carrier $1,495
The reason for doing the TeraFlex 3” plus a 1” body lift is because I’d rather not have to replace the driveshafts just to accommodate a 4” suspension lift. Am I wrong here? Would a driveshaft replacement really improve the ride quality or performance?
I understand that I would have to regear from the stock 3.21 gear ratio to a 4.11-4.88, so far I think this is the only thing I’m incapable of doing. Should I have the shop install a rear locker at the same time? Dumb question, is the gear ratio changed on both the front and rear differential?
What else should I have done?
Any advise or recommendations is really appreciated!
Sir,
You can put 35's under a 4 door with less lift then you had originally planned for as some others have stated here as well! If you have any questions about our suspension kits or components please don't hesitate to ask us some questions!
Good luck with the build,
RK