2.5" Lift, Wobble at speeds above 70
Hey guys. I just installed a lift on my JKUR; a 2.5" Max Travel RK kit sitting on atx ravines and 315/70/17 duratracs. At speeds that are about 70/75mph or above the car has a wobble. I got my tires and wheels rebalanced, which they said they were off by 9oz! The wobble is somewhat better but is still there.
I checked my torque on the track bar, it was tight. The thing to adjust your steering wheel on the DL was loose so I tightened that. I checked a bunch of stuff that Planman says to, but it all looked fine. My only thought is it is because my jeep's alignment is a little bit off (left camber -.67, calls for -.62 thru .12) I'm still running a stock rubi SS and my tire pressure is at 41.
Is there something I else should check or is this just something I have to deal with. I don't plan on these high speeds that often it just worries me the wobble is there.
I checked my torque on the track bar, it was tight. The thing to adjust your steering wheel on the DL was loose so I tightened that. I checked a bunch of stuff that Planman says to, but it all looked fine. My only thought is it is because my jeep's alignment is a little bit off (left camber -.67, calls for -.62 thru .12) I'm still running a stock rubi SS and my tire pressure is at 41.
Is there something I else should check or is this just something I have to deal with. I don't plan on these high speeds that often it just worries me the wobble is there.
Last edited by JK_Convert; Jun 17, 2014 at 07:35 PM.
Don't do planmans check list once. Go get a brew come back and start again. If you find something start the process again so you don't miss a step. I went through mine several times before fixing the problem.
Tomorrow I will be checking all of my torque as I just installed the lift a couple weekends ago. I run a decent amount of highway, 41 was just what the shop set it at. I'm going to do the chalk test tomorrow. My alignment should also be good as I just had it done twice, the caster was within spec, the only problem was the front left camber. I will also go through the Planman checklist to see if I find anything new.
Tomorrow I will be checking all of my torque as I just installed the lift a couple weekends ago. I run a decent amount of highway, 41 was just what the shop set it at. I'm going to do the chalk test tomorrow. My alignment should also be good as I just had it done twice, the caster was within spec, the only problem was the front left camber. I will also go through the Planman checklist to see if I find anything new.
Start your air pressure at 28lbs and work from there. The chalk test is not infallible. You can have a "good" pattern and not have enough pressure in the tire and you end up with the center tread not having adequate weight on it.
If all else fails, remove all the wheel weights and drive it again. This actually marks more often than not. I only ever bother balancing problem tires.
Well today was unsuccessful. Tried the check list, didn't find anything. We disconnected the factory SS and turned the steering wheel side to side full lock to see if we could find and imperfections but there was nothing. A buddy had a spare bds SS so I threw it on and it made a minimal difference, almost unnoticeable.
I'm thinking it may be in my alignment or like the post above me mentioned the lugs/wheels. I read some where that sometimes wheels don't accept afterfactory lugs very well but these are gorrilla lugs and they haven't given me trouble before. I just (as in on Friday) got my wheels REbalanced because the shop before screwed it up so badly, but they did this thing called the dynabead which is inside the tire.
If I find time this week I will try the suggestion above. Tomorrow I'll take a pic of my alignment specs and see what you guys think.
I'm thinking it may be in my alignment or like the post above me mentioned the lugs/wheels. I read some where that sometimes wheels don't accept afterfactory lugs very well but these are gorrilla lugs and they haven't given me trouble before. I just (as in on Friday) got my wheels REbalanced because the shop before screwed it up so badly, but they did this thing called the dynabead which is inside the tire.
If I find time this week I will try the suggestion above. Tomorrow I'll take a pic of my alignment specs and see what you guys think.
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Well today was unsuccessful. Tried the check list, didn't find anything. We disconnected the factory SS and turned the steering wheel side to side full lock to see if we could find and imperfections but there was nothing. A buddy had a spare bds SS so I threw it on and it made a minimal difference, almost unnoticeable. I'm thinking it may be in my alignment or like the post above me mentioned the lugs/wheels. I read some where that sometimes wheels don't accept afterfactory lugs very well but these are gorrilla lugs and they haven't given me trouble before. I just (as in on Friday) got my wheels REbalanced because the shop before screwed it up so badly, but they did this thing called the dynabead which is inside the tire. If I find time this week I will try the suggestion above. Tomorrow I'll take a pic of my alignment specs and see what you guys think.
Get rid of the dynabeads. Some swear by them, but I have never seen anything but problems from them. Most of the vehicles that say they work for them I believe could run no weight and achieve the same results.
I personally have removed beads from my own tires when I had a wobble and it cured the issue.
I'm aware of that, I just wanted to try it out seeing that I had the option. As for the beads they have helped the wobble, I can't see the hood shake when it happens but I still feel it. The steering wheel doesn't move(and didn't before). I'll try removing the dynabeads from my wheels of all else fails. I really am tired of dumping all kinds of money into it. Twice aligned twice tires balanced adds up on a budget.
I'm aware of that, I just wanted to try it out seeing that I had the option. As for the beads they have helped the wobble, I can't see the hood shake when it happens but I still feel it. The steering wheel doesn't move(and didn't before). I'll try removing the dynabeads from my wheels of all else fails. I really am tired of dumping all kinds of money into it. Twice aligned twice tires balanced adds up on a budget.
If that still doesn't work, get them balanced somewhere else. Balance at the pressure that you are actually running, not at the 40-45 they fill them to.


