Hi everyone, thanks for all the good information. I've been watching this board for a while waiting for my new JK (ordered in November!).I picked up my 2008 Rubicon unlimited a few weeks ago and just installed the OME lift. I used the writeup as a guide, but I have a few more specific questions:

1) it seemed that the brake lines were under tension under full droop, so I drilled and tapped new holes lower down on the frame rails. Have others had to do this?

2) Some posts here refer to needing swaybar extensions for the rubicon rear after the lift--why? I notice that the bolt holding the top end of the swaybar link seems fairly long and it may interfere with the panhard bracket I installed, so I was thinking about cutting off the excess length. Has anybody had issues with interference?

This is my third OME install in the last 6 years (2000TJ, 2000XJ) and each one has had its own set of problems/missing parts. This one the washers were missing for the panhard/trackbar bracket bolts, and the bracket had been formed too narrow for the supplied spacers (packers) to fit properly, so I had to machine about 0.090" off of them.

I've always been happy with the performance of the OME lifts, and am heading to the Canyonlands Maze in April with my favorite guru, Bill Burke. Learning from him was the most valuable Jeep mod ever. www.bb4wa.com if you're interested.

 

rubies need extended sway bar links on any lift over 2" to stop them from folding backwards.

Get new adjustable rear links and move the old rears to the front.

 

Had the same exact problem with mine.

 

I used the bumpstop and break line extensions ans sway bar extensions from a TF BB. Works great with the OME lift. See if you can pick some up in the For Sale Board.

 

It really is the extended lengths of the shocks that creates the problem. Anyone willing to post extended and comprssed lengths of the OME shocks before they install them. It might help many members here.

 

You can measure the shocks all day long but rubies still need extended sway bar links on lifts over 2".

 

Absolutely not. There is nothing about changing the ride height that will cause a problem with the ASB links. If the axle drops more you need them. See this thread, post #18. Post less, do some research. You are just wrong on this one.

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modified-jk-tech-2/shock-selection-limiting-factors-selection-process-25689/

I agree that most lifts come with longer than stock shocks, but some so not. In fact several vendors now carry OME springs. If you stuck with stock or stock extended length shocks you would not need new ASB links.

 

ok, your right. For people who buy lifts over 2" that keep the stock shocks may not need extended sway bar links.

My point is that in "This thread" the dude has over 2 inches of lift and longer than stock shocks. He needs longer sway bar links. true or false? I didn't want to write a freekin book on what he would need if he had a ome springs and stock shocks. That wasn't his question!

This was the Question

"Some posts here refer to needing swaybar extensions for the rubicon rear after the lift--why?"

Stop trolling....
You don't even have a lift on your jeep! Keep on web wheeling buddy

If you want to learn more read this:
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...+flex+sway+bar

 

I agree with the need for longer sway bar links on the OME lift: longer springs, longer shocks = more axle travel. That extra travel in extreme off camber situations with the Rubi sway bar electronically disconnected at the center hub can be enough to cause the extended side go over-center and then compress backwards. Think hyper-extension of your knee or elbow - it's designed to go one way and one way only Another way to explain the potential problem: with the stock links (which are now too short) if you fully flex your suspension and the drooped side reaches the point where the sway bar arm and link form a straight line you have a 50/50 chance that it will swing back in the correct position. It could just as easily go the other way.

The solution is to purchase 2" longer links for the rear and move the stock rears to the front (they happen to be about 2" longer than the stock fronts). This corrects the geometry so that even at full suspension travel the links cannot go over-center.

Brake lines at full travel are a bit tight and I'll eventually do extensions or longer braided lines if they ever stop making them out of gold!

 

Buster,

No one asked you to write a book. I simply added to your post (and did not challenge you) my first post. You are the one that gave me a for asking about shock length WHICH IS THE ISSUE HERE. If you are just on a mission to pick a fight when I contribute to a post, I suppose you contributed to the thread.

You stated that you don't want to write a book but this statement is incorrect and misleading ...

"rubies need extended sway bar links ON ANY LIFT over 2" to stop them from folding backwards."

I'll fix it for you since you can't be bothered ...

"rubies need extended sway bar links with any SHOCK OVER STOCK EXTENDED LENGTH to stop them from folding backwards."

No book was required. I do not have the money to lift my JK right now. However, I am no web wheeler and running a rig with no lift doesn't make me one. My stock Rubi has been on more wheeling trips than most of the modified rigs on this forum. Besides that I did the work, to show the research and I posted a link to my pictures to prove it. I even did the work and posted the picks when I had no other good reason to rip it apart, just because another member asked me to.

Back to the original post. Do we have measurements on the OME shocks that come with the OME kit? Without measurements or specs we really don't know what is needed. Like you I assume that the OME ones are longer. I'm sorry if my question offends you, but it matters.

Flame away internet hero