So I have a 2014 JKU Rubicon with rk 2.5 and 3.5s. In process of beefing up the front and rear axel. So far I have arb diff cover. Artec full truss to put on and new ball joints to install. So when I do the ball joints and artec install I wanted to do complete front axle to completion.

I am building an expedition rig so insurance of the front axle is important. Don't want to be 100 miles from pavment and be broke down.

What other parts should I add to the build to be damn near bullet proof in regards to axels I was thinking knuckles and aftermarket axel shafts. Was also thinking beefing up the stearing box wouldn't be a bad idea. I will be in cascade mountains so most trails will be good condition forest trails but there are some bit aggressive parts I could run into. I am just working on axels at this point. There will be lots of additional weight as well. I also do daily trips that are semi aggressive with friends.

Rear axel. Looking at rk 3 link which would give me truss. Not sure if knuckles and new axels are needed.

Should I add in aftermarket drive shafts.

Brands and experience would be great.

This build is going to be s couple years in the works. Right now just doing day and overnight trips that are not to far away from civilization. I have a long way to go but thought for the jeeping I do for fun on daily trips and overnight I should make my front axel next priority. Already full skidded, and other basic mods, bumpers winch LEDs and so on.


So the question is in regards to these axels at this point. I have a lot to learn and mod yet before I feel comfortable going on long trips. Thanks for advice

 

Something to check out that I have only looked into a little bit, but seem pretty tough. When my money tree reached a mature age I will likely get these. RCV axel shafts. http://www.quadratec.com/products/pr...e+Shafts&c=215

 

You have the right idea.

For he front: add c gussets. No need for knuckles. The axle shafts in the new rubicon are beefier than previous years (started late 2013 I think). Based on that, I'd say the only logical step up would be RCV shafts, which are nearly bomb proof.

For the rear, a set of chromo shafts.

Driveshafts is a complex topic....

 

what size tires? to me a d44 is not bulletproof , hell neither is a d60... Also the rk 3 link is more of a bridge than a truss... personally if i were you id upgrade as much as you can and carry all the take off parts as spares..

 

It depends a lot on how heavy of a foot you have, tire size, gearing. I wheeled my Dana 30 with sleeves and gussets, and 4.56 gears on 35's with zero issues. Eventually upgraded.

 

Thanks. Running 35s and I realize nothing is bullet proof in life. I have blown enough stuff up in my hot ridding days to realize that. Quess meant real strong to the point of supporting 37s some day maybe. Thank you.

 

JP magazine has a good article on the JK Dana 44 front axles in the most recent copy. They suggest axle sleeves, ball joints, gussets, and forged ends from EVO if you plan to run 35's, but they also suggest a complete new Danatrack Pro 44 axle if you plan to run 37's or larger.

 

Wheel with what you have . save your money and get a pr44 and never look back .

 

Terrible advice, especially for someone with a D44 already. Spend $2500-$3500 just to have a little beefier housing (numbers assume housing swap or sell stock axle for built PR44)? Unless you run a lot of lift, the caster adjustment isn't valuable. You can add ball joints, sleeves and gussets for about $400. That will be nearly as strong as a PR44 housing. If that is not strong enough, then you need a D60 or 9".

That idea is right up there with semi-float D60s...

 

lol x 2 here! even the caster adjustment can be corrected with offset bjs or even camber wedges.