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Neep input on water rush noise in pentastar JK.

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Old Oct 2, 2014 | 05:54 AM
  #1  
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Default Neep input on water rush noise in pentastar JK.

Gents, 2013 JKU Rubicon 10A,

Upon finally getting an appointment to change my oil pressure switch, I told the service that I could smell what I thought was coolant when the engine was hot.

Sure enough, they found that the thermostat housing was cracked and was leaking drops. So they changed it.

Ever since ( 2 days ago) I can hear water rushing in the dash on idle, and even worst when accelerating. I know this means I have air in the system. I immediately noticed it when I picked up the jeep and asked the service department about it. They said that it was indeed water in the system, that would bleed itself out of air, because you apparently cannot bleed the systems like it used to be done before.

They said 2-3 days max, that sound would be gone, since the air will be out.

Yesterday was the first day, and on my ride back home from work, I noticed that the sound was gone, or at least it seemed like it. But this morning, it seemed worst then when I first picked it up immediately after the service.


So, for those who are familiar with the pentastar and its cooling system, will it really bleed itself out, or not ??? and how long does it take ???

Is there a technique to bleed it faster ???

Thanks.
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Old Oct 2, 2014 | 07:07 AM
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Park on an Incline with front end up. Wait for engine to cool. Pop rad cap off. Fill to the max. Grap hoses and start squeezing.
There is a hose that goes over the engine, its has a high crest, maybe traps air. Refill radiator unit air is purged may take a few attempts.

It worked for me. Had gurgling noise, this fixed it.

Ernie
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Old Oct 2, 2014 | 07:08 AM
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This sounds like air in the system moreover air bubbles within the heater system.. which is part of the same setup.. I found that by using a pressure release radiator cap, can relieve any excess air pockets in the system.. Make sure your coolant reservoir is within an optimal range and be warned when lifting red lever while the engine has been running. If left un answered.. it can lead to other issues.. Your attempting to find the right balance in the coolant system and it may take a few tries.. each morning before start up.. remove the pressure cap.. gently squeeze the hoses and replace the cap.. checking the reservoir of course.. The system should see that there are gaps or air pockets and draw from the reservoir thereafter.

Last edited by AngryRedBird; Oct 9, 2014 at 01:45 AM.
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Old Oct 2, 2014 | 07:42 AM
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This is a common issue. Use the search button and you'll find plenty of threads on this already.
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Old Oct 2, 2014 | 12:55 PM
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As mentioned, you can fix this yourself. Make sure if you add fluid, add OAT not HOAT.

Last edited by Mello03; Oct 5, 2014 at 03:32 AM.
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Old Oct 2, 2014 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Tripletsi
This is a common issue. Use the search button and you'll find plenty of threads on this already.
Search help me find what I already know.... I want to know if it is a fact that the system will bleed itself out on a pentastar like the dealer said.

I know how to bleed a system like in the old days, as described above. But the dealer said you cannot bleed the cooling system the old way on the pentastar. They say it has to bleed itself out.

True or false.?!!
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Old Oct 4, 2014 | 05:14 AM
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Found on other site, and since no one seems to know here, I will share what I found.

1- it is a fact, that the pentastar V6 has a cooling system that is unbleedable. It is designed to bleed itself out of air.

2- however, it can happen that the bleed screw located on the thermostat housing, need to be tightened a bit, because when not totally tight, it lets air in as the cooling system decompresses.

3- while you are waiting for the system to bleed itself out, always keep an eye in the expansion(oveflow) bottle, to make sure that there is sufficient coolant in there to replace the air that will come out. Otherwise the system will suck more air in while attempting to fill itself with coolant.

So the old school.... Nose up, cap off and hose squeezing technique are not necessary with the pentastar.

Last edited by Da10A; Oct 4, 2014 at 05:16 AM.
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Old Oct 4, 2014 | 05:16 AM
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Da10A I've not seen any conclusive evidence that this is true of false.. after reading a few things at the pentastar site.. Most suggest running the engine rev 2K - 3K for about 2 mins.. or others have suggested just turn on the heater for a while.. Otherwise I can't verify any of this for you.
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Old Oct 4, 2014 | 10:57 AM
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Well, I checked and the bleeder screw needed a good 1/4 turn just to be snug. I also had to raise the coolant level to the MAX mark, to make sure that the system would not suck-in more air due to the low level.

Did this this morning, ran some errands and can confirm that I am now water noise free behind the dash.

It really worked that fast.
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Old Oct 6, 2014 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Da10A
Found on other site, and since no one seems to know here, I will share what I found.

1- it is a fact, that the pentastar V6 has a cooling system that is unbleedable. It is designed to bleed itself out of air.

2- however, it can happen that the bleed screw located on the thermostat housing, need to be tightened a bit, because when not totally tight, it lets air in as the cooling system decompresses.

3- while you are waiting for the system to bleed itself out, always keep an eye in the expansion(oveflow) bottle, to make sure that there is sufficient coolant in there to replace the air that will come out. Otherwise the system will suck more air in while attempting to fill itself with coolant.

So the old school.... Nose up, cap off and hose squeezing technique are not necessary with the pentastar.


Yep Nose Up, Cap Off and Squeeze worked for me. Still no Gurgling after 2 years.
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