So I installed a 4" lift on my jk and I know I need an adjustable track bar and relocate rear track bar bracket. Also adjustable control arms. Is there a preference on which one to do first? I was reading on the pitman arm as well not to sure if I would need to change that as well if it is necessary. I still have the stock rims and tires on, planning to put 33's on there soon. Thanks for the help guys!

 

Lots of questions here... 4" lift for 33" tires? The kit you installed did not come with anything to adjust the trac bars? The control arms are optional, but I would get them if I had a 4" lift. At 4" I would do a drag link flip and trac bar bracket first. You can handle flighty steering from castor being off, but you have to be able to keep it on the road. Drop pitman arm and trac bar bracket are cheaper but can stress your steering component. Good luck.

sent from my work leash

 

Yeah I was thinking of 33's is that not a good idea? Unfortunately the kit did not come with a relocation bracket or adjustable trackbar.

 

You can put 33s on your Jeep without a lift. You'll probably want wheel spacers or new wheels with 4.5" backspacing. That will really improve the looks of your Jeep. A 2" leveling kit or 2.5" spring lift will give a little height without all the problems of taller lifts. 4" is better reserved for 37" tires where the owner is prepared for the additional costs of driveshafts, control arms, welding (to reposition spring perches), etc. A 4" lift with 33s will underperform a stock Jeep with 33s because of the higher COG--not to mention reduced reliability.

At the top of each sub-forum are stickies. On a tab if using a phone app. Find the sticky "My thoughts on lifts" by Dirtman and read it over before you install that lift. Lots of good advice in that thread.

 

Thanks for the reply mark I will look into that sticky

 

You bought a 4" kit that included neither axle centering nor caster correction?? Spill it, which kit? You might list the specific components that are currently installed so we are all starting at the same place with recommendations.

But, at 4", low caster has to have you all over the road. That would be 'my' first priority. Then centering the front axle. And steering correction would be way down at the bottom of the list.

First, you should probably get a handle on what you are correcting with each component. As noted above, the FAQ's and Thoughts On Lifts threads are a great start. A few thoughts, fwiw...

-As you lift, the pinion tilts up, which automatically lowers the caster, which causes progressively flightier steering. No way around it, higher lift = lower caster = worse steering. So, how does it handle now, at 4", with no correction?

For your pitman suggestion: When the suspension is lifted, the front drag link and trackbar run at steeper angles. (one end connected to the axle, the other end up near the frame). A drop pitman/bracket, or a drag link flip/bracket, simply raises or lowers one end of both bars, which flattens the angles. Does this help your steering? Or would correcting the caster be your better choice?
(I know some people are going to jump on "bumpsteer" here, but think about it. When you lift, the bars stay parallel. From a bunch of previous posts, the general culprit for bumpsteer is adding a component that makes them not parallel - like a drop pitman without the corresponding bracket, or a bracket without a flip, or a bracket without the drop pitman. Not the fact that you lifted 2" or 3" or 4". They start parallel, they end parallel, just at steeper angles...)

 

The lift I installed was a pro comp lift
Pro Comp Suspension Part K3086B - 4 Inch Stage I Lift Kit with ES9000 Shocks - Fits 2007 to 2015 Jeep JK Wrangler Non-Rubicon 4WD - 4 Wheel Parts
The ride isn't bad at all steering is fine only noticeable difference is a little loose compared to stock. Problem is I got it installed at a shop(yeah I know I didn't do it myself, I wish I could but I would need help) they said they aligned it with the installation but I didn't know exactly what they did. I'm really new to working on automobiles I don't have much experience and that's why I went to the shop

 

Who told you to get a 4" lift if you are just going to run 33's at this time.

Like in the posts above a 2 or 2.5 would of been all you needed.

 

Well when i purchased the 4" lift I was looking at other threads (not on this website) of people who had 33s on 4" lift. Now I know it will be underpowered due to the info provided. Like previously stated 37s is ideal for for 4" lift, would 35s still be unlikely for this size lift?

 

Did they give you an alignment printout? If so, compare the numbers.

With stock components, the only things they can 'align' are to recenter the steering wheel and adjust the Toe. The toe did not change from the lift, so likely was not touched (unless you had previously smacked into something and knocked it out). The steering wheel was offcenter, but this takes all of 5 minutes to loosen two bolts and twist a turnbuckle until it is straight.

They did not adjust caster. They did not adjust camber. And they did not recenter the axles.

There are people running 33's on that size lift, and people running 35's, and people running 37's or 40's. It's all about you. If you are ok with the looks of 33's and that much wheel well space, go for it. If you want 35's, most people would agree that it will look better. But, then you also start getting into discussions about re-gearing for 35" or bigger tires.

There are a bunch of pic pic threads down in JK Show & Tell to look through. The search function on this site is kinda hit or miss, so use google. Type in "site:www.jk-forum.com" followed by your search string. Like site:www.jk-forum.com 4" 35's "
Which gives a list with this one at the top
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-s...-tires-147230/

On another note - make sure that you crawl underneath and check both driveshafts as part of your regular maintenance, paying attention to any grease spitting out of the joints at the transfer case end. You might also go flex it out and crawl under to check for driveshaft clearance before you take it out in the boonies.