Who's running 40's?
I have a 2011 JK Unlimited Sport, I just got. I bought it with a 4'' Procomp short arm lift and trimmed fenders. I have 35's right now. Shooting for 40's. I realize this isn't as simple as wheels and tires. I plan on axle swaps and hydro assist before I do anything else, granted it will be piece by piece Anyone else running big tires that has any good advice? Looking at a prorock 44 front, and jockrock 60 rear at the moment. Thanks for any input.
I have a 2011 JK Unlimited Sport, I just got. I bought it with a 4'' Procomp short arm lift and trimmed fenders. I have 35's right now. Shooting for 40's. I realize this isn't as simple as wheels and tires. I plan on axle swaps and hydro assist before I do anything else, granted it will be piece by piece Anyone else running big tires that has any good advice? Looking at a prorock 44 front, and jockrock 60 rear at the moment. Thanks for any input.
With 40s you want a wider than stock front axle and no more than 3 1/2 inch backspaced wheels. Otherwise, the size of the tires and wheel offset make it very difficult to turn sharply. So, you'll want to 60 front instead of a 44.
JK Unlimited's can get very heavy when modified, and as a result, you want to full float rear 1 ton axle.
You want to 1350 drive shafts, Hydro assist steering, and you'll need a good amount of fender well trimming.
JK Unlimited's can get very heavy when modified, and as a result, you want to full float rear 1 ton axle.
You want to 1350 drive shafts, Hydro assist steering, and you'll need a good amount of fender well trimming.
I blew up a D44 ring and pinion with 37s on a light 2 door. Definitely go 60 front. Wide axles is good as well.
I'm going to 40s and using 2005+ super duty axles. 72" WMS to WMS. That's 6.5" wider than stock. Lots of room to play.
I'm going to 40s and using 2005+ super duty axles. 72" WMS to WMS. That's 6.5" wider than stock. Lots of room to play.
From what I have read the pro rock 44 has the same outer axle diameter as the 60, and the only real difference is the ring and pinion. I am looking at the complete axle with RCV's and ARB's. I am thinking pro rock 44 front because I am not running any real horsepower, lets be honest the stock 3.8l doesn't pump out the juice, Also I prefer to be under powered and over axled. I was thinking 1310's for the front and 1350's for the rock jock 60 rear. I would like to spin a joint before destroying anything else. I will look into full width options, turning sure is nice, I haven't picked out beadlocks yet, but they will most likely be 3.5's. I appreciate the input.
This is also an expo/crawl rig. I drive to where I am going to wheel and it will hopefully never see a trailer, so I have to be moderately street legal. I plan to take it to Alaska, and the Baja. I live in Oregon. Also on the hydro assist, I plan on getting that done with the axles, I have seen friends fight it with no hydro, and it's a must.
The front axle width is the issue of concern in order to be able to do a sharp full lock turn. You want as wide as possible.
I am pretty sure that the ProRock 44s are the same width as stock axles. If you run 40s with a stock width front, your turning radius will be about as bad as a crew cab longbed dually truck.
It doesn't make much sense to do a 1310 driveshaft with 40s unless you already own them. If you are buying new, do 1350s.
If you have a 3.8L automatic, 40s will suck for frequent highway travel--even with a supercharger and 5.38 gears. The engine rpm at highway speeds will be too low.
If you have a 6 speed, then you can get by with 5.38 gears. A RIPP supercharger works great with a 6 speed, 40s and 5.38s.
I am pretty sure that the ProRock 44s are the same width as stock axles. If you run 40s with a stock width front, your turning radius will be about as bad as a crew cab longbed dually truck.
It doesn't make much sense to do a 1310 driveshaft with 40s unless you already own them. If you are buying new, do 1350s.
If you have a 3.8L automatic, 40s will suck for frequent highway travel--even with a supercharger and 5.38 gears. The engine rpm at highway speeds will be too low.
If you have a 6 speed, then you can get by with 5.38 gears. A RIPP supercharger works great with a 6 speed, 40s and 5.38s.
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I do have the automatic and am going 5.38, I came from an 80 series Land Cruiser, and I can't imagine the power can be any worse on the highway. But I could be wrong, I would love a good hemi swap, but that easily pays for my axles.
Makes sense on the 1350's, might as well keep them both the same. I hope to eliminate the break factor by upgrading axles, but I do have a heavy foot. I just don't know if I can juice it enough stock to justify another 2 or 3k for a 60 front.


With 40s and 5.38s, and a 3.8L with an automatic, you will be turning about 2200 engine rpm at 70 mph. On a stock engine, that equates to about 75 rear wheel horsepower and less than 180 rear wheel torque.
75 RWHP and 180 RWTQ is not enough to turn 40s on a heavy rig.
To turn 40s and maintain speed on highway trips from Alaska to Baja, you need to be turning at least 2500 rpm at 70 mph with a supercharger, or you need to be turning closer to 2700-2800 rpm unmodified, with a Superchips or similar tuner at 70 mph (putting you closer to 110 RWHP and 200 RWTQ).
I'd suggest you go drive someone's automatic with a 3.8L and 40s with 5.38s before you make the investment in the axles, etc.
Last edited by planman; Nov 11, 2014 at 04:36 PM.


