While I am waiting for Jeep to build my 2015 JKUR, i've been looking at builds/parts constantly. I just ordered EVO's Protek oil pan and crossmember/exhaust skid (I ordered a manual so no need to protect it really since it sits up so high). I have some Christmas money left over and am thinking of a small lift now. I have decided to go with the AEV 2" BB or the Tereflex 2.5" BB. I plan on using the stock Rubicon shocks and stock tires (32's).

My question, is this size lift trouble free as in no steering issues/driveline issues/etc? The general consensus is anything over 3" needs front drive shaft and LCA. My fear is that I will install this kit and have issues with my brand new Jeep. Death wobble is also a concerned.

 

The only thing you'll need is exhaust spacers. Teraflex sells those. I have the Teraflex 2.5" coil/spring lift. And there's no issues. You'll just need the exhaust spacers.

 

Go with the TeraFlex 2.5" Budget Boost, simple, affordable, and you wont take a big hit for resale down the road.

Follow TeraFlex's videos on installation and you won't have a problem with installer error too. I had bump steer with my TF 2.5" BB but that was quickly fixed with some geometry correction brackets. Go with Rancho over AEV, much beefier. I twisted my AEV brackets and they made my control arms bind as well. Thin metal is not meant for rocks.

No exhaust spacer needed on my '12 JKU auto either. I would suggest to add some Spidertrax 1.5" wheel spacers. I bent my EVO crossmember skid pretty easily, right up into my exhaust. The front portion of the crossmember skid is cantilevered out over the exhaust and has no support. IT WILL BEND. I would look into other options before you install it. Great idea on protecting your investment though!

Good luck, welcome to the forum!

 

There was a write up over on wayalife where someone welded a bracket to prevent the bending. I plan on this. It was the only skid I could find that would cover the exhaust loop.

 

Any time you modify from stock you are introducing issues. As the lift height increases, the pinions tilt up, the caster goes down, and the steering gets flightier. Will you care? No idea. Both axles will shift to one side. Those lifts should come with correction for the rear axle, but not the front. Will you care? No idea. Among other things, Deathwobble can be caused by worn components or bolts not torqued to spec. Brand new jeep, worn components probably won't be an issue, so just be sure and install it correctly. Driveshafts, there is no magic number that says at this height you will have an issue, but at this height you won't. Any lift causes the joints to run at steeper angles. More height and steeper angles is more likely to cause issues, but people with 2.5" lifts have posted nice greasy pics in the past. Just be sure to crawl underneath and check the joints on a semi-regular basis.

 

I have an AEV 2 1/2 inch lift with geometry correction kit and was very methodical with install. I check torques every couple of months. Couldn't be happier

 

Very nice looking Jeep. What tire size are you running? Proportion of lift to tire size is bang on! Thanks

 

Same set up. Have been running this way for two years now and no issues

 

I'm with nthinuf.
When I bought my 2013 it had 26k on the clock, it had spent it's life stock and on the pavement. Not one scratch underneath, and no signs of gravel "pitting".
Before I bought the rig the dealer installed the TF 2.5" BB and RE adj. front track bar and 35x12.50's. I had them put 5.13's in it and off I went.
I though it drove great, slightly flighty steering, otherwise good driver. 2dr, and shortest vehicle I've ever owned so I assumed so of the twitchyness was part of the deal.
Then I got placed on a project that causes me to commute over an hour each way on well worn highway.
All of a sudden the slightly flighty steering was a problem, fighting worn wheel tracks, high cross winds with flighty steering got old real fast. Made the drive exhausting. I was contemplating trading for a 4dr.
Spoke with a long standing and reputable local shop, and at their suggestion I had adjustable upper control arms installed to dial in alignment and and double cardan driveshafts to allow pinion be dialed in.
Immediately, the the flighty steering was gone, and the Jeep never had driven so smooth. Guess there were vibrations/harmonics in the stock driveshafts that I had accepted... probably told myself it was the mud tires, but, then again coming from a 17year old beat up XJ on muds this thing was smooth sailing by comparison.

So, I too thought that a 2.5" lift was just fine, and required nothing else... until I started adding other things and realized how much better the rig became with them.

 

What do you plan to use this Jeep for? With the skids on the bottom that suggests maybe some hardcore rock crawling--you want to protect things from getting damaged. So, that being the case, what do you expect that 2-2.5" lift with the stock Rubi tires to give you that you don't have already? If you're looking at this as "temporary until I can afford a better lift", then how about setting the money aside so that you can afford that better lift sooner? Right now, your tires are giving you as much ground clearance as you can get. The lift will not help with that. It will give slightly better approach and departure angles, but not really much to write home about. And you'll be able to keep some of your components, such as electrical things, above water during slightly deeper river fords. And that's about it. Your penalty for that will be a higher center of gravity (COG), and greater wind resistance (thus lower gas mileage and seemingly less pep from the engine).

The big bang comes when you increase the tires size. You still suffer those penalties (though if you replace the OEM wheels with some at a more optimum offset you'll be wider, but not as tipsy with the higher COG). You do, however, gain critical ground clearance, along with those other things noted above. And, with selection of a proper lift, you'll gain articulation, which means your Jeep is better at keeping tires in contact with the ground, which makes rock crawling safer (imagine rocking back on forth on one front and one rear wheel because your tires can't keep contact with the ground). That's why the best approach is to lift only to provide clearance for your tires of choice. And the smart approach is to not spend money for the same mod twice.