I am new to the overlanding and wondering where to begin to build my 2014 JKU auto trans. I have lifted it 2" and put 305/70r17 KM2s and a 9.5K winch (and some other things like TBs that aren't important to the conversation).

I am looking to armor for the undercarriage as the next thing with suspension (steering & handling) , tuner, recovery, and a few creature comforts taken care of. I am capable to weld on plate for LCA skids so I will take care of that as well as C gussets & I am fixin to order Riddler covers. What I am unsure of is how far to go with the frame mounted skid plates.

1 - everything points to having to do something to the Evap Can: either plate it or move it. Moving seems more desirable ($60 kit from JeepSwag & no extra weight vs $100 plate....but I have been hesitant to "move" things for warranty. I managed to shim my vaccum pump and not move it for winch install).

So is moving it the better way to go (should be able to do this with exhaust mod right)?

2 - Basically, reading this forum, Mark D's Jeep seems be a great example to use. And he is extremely present on this forum (have even PM'ed him for OK trails). So I have read and digested his additions. It lists the LCA skids and a Rancho oil pan plate. Is that enough? Of course I do not know the differences between a 2007 3.8L standard trans and my 2014 3.6L auto underneath. OffRoad Elements (sponsor) who I buy 90% of my stuff from suggests the RockHard Oil/trans skid. Its big heavy, $200 more than the Rancho oil pan protection and seems to do away with the factory skid for the xfer case which makes me think I would need to buy their plate for that.

I don't plan to do serious rock crawling. I want to take it out with my kids and ride on trails and do some camping, I do however want it to be protected. I guess I would like to know where the fine line is between just enough and over-kill for my use. I will spend the $ to do what is needed but the list is too long to "waste" $ and I don't need extra un-needed weight

any thoughts/ideas/suggestions?

AB

 

Crawl under your JKU and you can see what is unprotected. You have your auto trans sump and trans line exposed same with the oil pan and the exhaust crossover/loop. For these I recommend the EVO Protek Skid System. It covers the oil pan, trans, and crossmember/exhaust. $399 for the set I believe. This is the bare minimum IMO. Everything else would just be adding weight and complicate trail repairs.

The transfer case and gas tank already have skids and they will do just fine.

As for the EVAP, it already comes with a skid. Although not as beefy as aftermarket, it will do fine for now if you are just overlanding and not playing in the rocks. If you do knock it off you can drive without it and its like a $50 part to replace. If you are concerned about it, relocating it would be the best option however I have heard that it will void the warranty. EVO just released a bolt on skid for the EVAP where you don't even have to remove the EVAP to install (those connectors tend to break). Price is $109.

Another thing to think about is flipping the steering stabilizer above the tie rod. I just ordered the Rough Country bracket for it ($20) and it uses the stock tie rod clamp.

You mentioned Riddler covers, unless your playing in the rocks I don't think you would need them and would be last on my list.

IMO, get the EVO Protek System and then go out for a weekend and see what you hit. You may find that you don't hit anything.

 

I have a 2014 auto Rubicon. I quickly realized that the first thing I needed to add was a trans/oil pan skid. During my first time playing in rocks I bent the 2-3 inch bar (by coming down on a rock) that runs in front of the transfer case skid. On the next trip out I tore the boot on my front drive shaft (the one that covers where the shaft slides) because it rubbed on the bent bar. So, I removed the bar and installed the Rock Hard oil pan/trans skid. I went this one because I like the way it bolts to the frame instead of bolting to the bottom of the engine,where the oil pan bolts on. It doesn't cover the exhaust loop though.

I am still using the factory transfer case and gas tank skids. However, my gas tank skid seems to be the weakest or most vulnerable of the two because it has many dents and scratches so my next skid will be the Rock Hard gas tank skid. The factory transfer case skid I think is fairly stout and seems to be holding up better than the others. As far as the evap canister goes, my Rubi came with a skid from the factory so that is what I use.

 

I've got the EVO Protek and although the price was good for an oil/trans/exhaust skid setup, it's an absolute pain to take off and install back on the transmission skid plate which needs to be taken off whenever the trans fluid needs to be changed. Granted you're not changing the tranny fluid every other month but it is a pain to install.

Because of this, among 1 other thing, if I were to do it all over again I would get the Rock Hard skids or maybe consider the M.O.R.E. skid but with these there is no exhaust protection.....maybe look into River Raider also.

You might be able to buy the EVO Protek exhaust skid and have it work with the Rock Hard oil/trans skid. I don't feel like getting under the Jeep right now to verify though. If you decide to run rocks, I can say that the Rubicon trail ate up the Protek exhaust skid. Probably wouldn't have happened if all 3 skids were lined up flat so nothing gets hung up. The revised Protek exhaust skid, which I have, does have cutouts to address any heat issues.

Gas tank skid is definitely the next thing I'm doing. Stock one is definitely too thin but might be good enough if you don't play in the rocks.

 

The install sheet for the Rock Hard oil/trans skid says to remove the factory transfer case skid but no does it say to reinstall. You are saying they do work together?


My 2014 has a thin plate on the EVAP Can as well. I just assumed that it was not adequate what with the way people are talking

Oh, also, reading Rock Hard's FAQ, it states that it specifically avoided plating the cross over pipe (and the loop?) to allow heat out. Its per design. Any 1 have any thing to add? Skid Row makes a small deflector/plate for the exhaust loop that probably would work and shouldn't trap much heat. Hell, with the Rock Hard in place, a piece of scrap 3/16" could easily be made for the loop


Thanks for the info

AB

 

I have the Rockhard engine/ tranny skid. The stock tranny skid gets tossed, but the stock transfer case skid gets put back.
They have a TC skid also , either or

 

yea they work together.