Replacing stock door hinges on 08 JK Unlimited
I Have an 08 Wrangler JK Unlimited and I'm going to (hopefully) replace the stock door hinges with some billet ones I have. The problem lays when I try to remove the stock 50 Torx bolts...
I already replaced the mirrors because I found out the hard way that these Torx bolts strip VERY easy.
My question is, what can I do to help these little buggers come out without stripping every one?
Does anybody have any experience in doing this?
Thanks in advance!
I already replaced the mirrors because I found out the hard way that these Torx bolts strip VERY easy.
My question is, what can I do to help these little buggers come out without stripping every one?
Does anybody have any experience in doing this?
Thanks in advance!
You already know you're into trouble with those bolts and I hope you're ready to find no paint and E-coat priming under the old hinges. They are installed before the body heads into the paint shop. That said there's a lot of hidden work ahead most people discover too late thinking this is a one day job. To do the job right be prepared to be priming and painting after the originals are removed.
Back to the bolts. the problem with a painted over Torx is twofold. One is that the E-coat primer system is a fancy metallic resin based electro-galvanizing process. Has a tendency to seize up the underside and edges of the fasteners' heads in the countersink of the holes. Also the protruding threads on the inside of the door side are coated with it because the body cleaning and priming line is a system where it is completely submerged in a series of dip tanks. This is unlike the paint (colour) line where the robots only spray where you are going to see it. Example..no paint under padding of roll cage but is primed.
You will probably be replacing all the hinge bolts so my advice would be to use an impact driver-not gun on them. The type that's like a big heavy screw driver that twists as it's struck by a hammer. First of all I'd also be scraping as much paint as possible out of the Torx star pattern as possible. If not it acts like a lubricant and you know what happens when these things start to strip....may end up having to drill out
Back to the bolts. the problem with a painted over Torx is twofold. One is that the E-coat primer system is a fancy metallic resin based electro-galvanizing process. Has a tendency to seize up the underside and edges of the fasteners' heads in the countersink of the holes. Also the protruding threads on the inside of the door side are coated with it because the body cleaning and priming line is a system where it is completely submerged in a series of dip tanks. This is unlike the paint (colour) line where the robots only spray where you are going to see it. Example..no paint under padding of roll cage but is primed.
You will probably be replacing all the hinge bolts so my advice would be to use an impact driver-not gun on them. The type that's like a big heavy screw driver that twists as it's struck by a hammer. First of all I'd also be scraping as much paint as possible out of the Torx star pattern as possible. If not it acts like a lubricant and you know what happens when these things start to strip....may end up having to drill out
Last edited by 101gargoyles; Feb 16, 2015 at 03:42 AM.
I agree with removing the excess paint from the head of the fastener. I use valve grinding compound on driver tips when a fastener is nearly stripped out. Works great on the titanium panel screws on the jet I maintain because drilling titanium isn't fun.


