while doing gears, need advice on gussets, trussets, and/or sleeves
you can see my build in my sig, but basically running 35s on 3.5" lift. 37s are in my future but probably not for a while. i am going from my stock 4.10 to Yukon 5.13s and was wondering while the shop as the axles down what should i reasonably armor up? new diff covers obviously. i orignally figured i would just to gussets, but then thought maybe do the whole kit (gusset, trusset, lower control arm skids, and track bar mount). and if i am doing all that maybe get sleeves as well? i dunno, head spinning. shop is recommending just trussets until those 37s finally do come then do gussets and sleeves. but others just do gussets and wait on the trusset and sleeves until 37s.
anyone have any advice knowing gears are already expensive. i like taking advantage of the axle being down and worked on to get something beefed up. the shops knows gears and they are some serious welders.
anyone have any advice knowing gears are already expensive. i like taking advantage of the axle being down and worked on to get something beefed up. the shops knows gears and they are some serious welders.
So I had Chaos Fab Shop (near you) add 5.13 yukon gears, Artec truss kit (truss, C's, locker C-arm skids and trackbar brace) on my rubi D44 and I love it, also running 37's on my 2 door JK. No need to sleeve it if trussed, plus the axle needs to be heated up evenly to 400 degrees when welding the kit so you will need to replace the ball joints and do it while the gears are out.
Crush '12 JK 2 door, 3.5 metal cloak, FOX, 5.13, and roll'in 37's.... killin it in WV mountains!
Crush '12 JK 2 door, 3.5 metal cloak, FOX, 5.13, and roll'in 37's.... killin it in WV mountains!
Or grab a PR/Tera housing and swap all your parts into it and don't worry about any welding.
Or sell your axle and jump into a 60.
Or...
So I had Chaos Fab Shop (near you) add 5.13 yukon gears, Artec truss kit (truss, C's, locker C-arm skids and trackbar brace) on my rubi D44 and I love it, also running 37's on my 2 door JK. No need to sleeve it if trussed, plus the axle needs to be heated up evenly to 400 degrees when welding the kit so you will need to replace the ball joints and do it while the gears are out.
Crush '12 JK 2 door, 3.5 metal cloak, FOX, 5.13, and roll'in 37's.... killin it in WV mountains!
Crush '12 JK 2 door, 3.5 metal cloak, FOX, 5.13, and roll'in 37's.... killin it in WV mountains!
*edit*
and nthinuf, you are helping matters
Last edited by dalearyous; Feb 18, 2015 at 06:11 PM.
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Lol, glad I could help with the confusion. 
There really isn't a right answer, just what is right for you, with your budget, and your usage/needs. Just an opinion, but unless you are seriously considering a housing/axle upgrade, I would not wait until later to add the strength mods. No reason not to do it now while the axle is already torn apart.

There really isn't a right answer, just what is right for you, with your budget, and your usage/needs. Just an opinion, but unless you are seriously considering a housing/axle upgrade, I would not wait until later to add the strength mods. No reason not to do it now while the axle is already torn apart.
Jeep305 - that axle looks great. They sandblast the whole thing before adding all the brackets and gussets? It's almost too purdy to paint...think I'd just slap some sort of clear sealant on and call it good!
I agree with what others are saying. It's nice to have the piece of mind if funds allow and an axle swap isn't in your near future.
I agree with what others are saying. It's nice to have the piece of mind if funds allow and an axle swap isn't in your near future.



