Analyzing options for front axle, gearing and lockers
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 345
Likes: 2
From: Texarkana, TX
Analyzing options for front axle, gearing and lockers
I was analyzing my options for my front axle.
My rig and info:
- 2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited D30 front axle with 3:37 gears and factory limited slip differential
- 2.5 Rock Krawler Max Travel Kit with Rancho 9000 shocks. Kit includes their lower control arms (front & Back) and rear trac bar bracket
- Synergy front trac bar with their sector shaft brace kit
- Synergy steer stabilizer relocation kit (bracket that goes over factory axle side trac bar bracket along with clam on tie rod). Allows steering stabilizer to be up higher.
- Currently running Goodear Duratrac 315/70R17. May go to Nitto Trail Grapplers 35x12.50 in the future (heavier tire).
Option #1 - Beef up factory D30 axle with Artec Armor Kit, new Synergy ball joints, new gears
Option #2 - New Dynatrac PR44 front axle with all associated parts minus brakes, knuckles and hubs.
Obviously beefing up my D30 would be the cheaper route, but I started adding up all the parts and some labor for reinforcing my front D30. I have begun to wonder about the comparison.
D30 upgrades: Gears $600 parts, Synergy ball joints parts $250, Artec Armor kit parts $309, Welding $300 approx. I don't have all of the labor pricing for the axle removal, ball joints, etc., but I know the gear labor I was previously quoted when I was checking on re-gearing was $600 (total front & rear). So I'm already up to about $2,100 minimum and would mostly likely be close to $3,000 when all said and done.
The PR44 from what I could tell and have been quoted would run me about $4950 plus labor (not sure on how much the labor would be but I would suspect about $600). That's with housing, shafts, ball joints, gearing, and locker.
So would you just save up a little longer and put the PR44 in?
Also, given my info below what locker (true trac, e-locker, other) and gearing (4.56 or 4.88) would you recommend?
- My rig is my daily drive and see a lot of and mostly pavement time. Mostly day to day in town driving and a few road trips from time to time. However, I would like to get it where it's good for that but can handle some decent off-roading as well. Terrain around here is mostly rolling hills, muddy trails with ruts, however, we do have an off-road park about 2hrs away that offers some rocks.
- I've been told 4.56 or 4.88 on gearing just about equally depending upon who you talk to. FYI my rig does have some weight to it with front bumper & winch, rear bumper, Ace Sliders with Rubi rails. I was leaning towards 4.56 given my on road driving.
My rig and info:
- 2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited D30 front axle with 3:37 gears and factory limited slip differential
- 2.5 Rock Krawler Max Travel Kit with Rancho 9000 shocks. Kit includes their lower control arms (front & Back) and rear trac bar bracket
- Synergy front trac bar with their sector shaft brace kit
- Synergy steer stabilizer relocation kit (bracket that goes over factory axle side trac bar bracket along with clam on tie rod). Allows steering stabilizer to be up higher.
- Currently running Goodear Duratrac 315/70R17. May go to Nitto Trail Grapplers 35x12.50 in the future (heavier tire).
Option #1 - Beef up factory D30 axle with Artec Armor Kit, new Synergy ball joints, new gears
Option #2 - New Dynatrac PR44 front axle with all associated parts minus brakes, knuckles and hubs.
Obviously beefing up my D30 would be the cheaper route, but I started adding up all the parts and some labor for reinforcing my front D30. I have begun to wonder about the comparison.
D30 upgrades: Gears $600 parts, Synergy ball joints parts $250, Artec Armor kit parts $309, Welding $300 approx. I don't have all of the labor pricing for the axle removal, ball joints, etc., but I know the gear labor I was previously quoted when I was checking on re-gearing was $600 (total front & rear). So I'm already up to about $2,100 minimum and would mostly likely be close to $3,000 when all said and done.
The PR44 from what I could tell and have been quoted would run me about $4950 plus labor (not sure on how much the labor would be but I would suspect about $600). That's with housing, shafts, ball joints, gearing, and locker.
So would you just save up a little longer and put the PR44 in?
Also, given my info below what locker (true trac, e-locker, other) and gearing (4.56 or 4.88) would you recommend?
- My rig is my daily drive and see a lot of and mostly pavement time. Mostly day to day in town driving and a few road trips from time to time. However, I would like to get it where it's good for that but can handle some decent off-roading as well. Terrain around here is mostly rolling hills, muddy trails with ruts, however, we do have an off-road park about 2hrs away that offers some rocks.
- I've been told 4.56 or 4.88 on gearing just about equally depending upon who you talk to. FYI my rig does have some weight to it with front bumper & winch, rear bumper, Ace Sliders with Rubi rails. I was leaning towards 4.56 given my on road driving.
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 165
From: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
Decide on traction, get the rest of the labor costs, then do another side-by-side comparison.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...-build-274896/
You say you are already close to 3k, add another grand for a selectable locker, and a PR/Tera starts making a lot of sense. But, you will also get replies saying that a PR/Tera is a waste, and you should just move on up to some flavor of one-ton axle.
There are plenty of threads discussing the merits of the various traction devices to read through. If you don't 'need' lockers, (it sounds like you do not?) a pair of truetracs is a very good, and very cost effective, choice. Again, plenty of threads on them to read through.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...-build-274896/
You say you are already close to 3k, add another grand for a selectable locker, and a PR/Tera starts making a lot of sense. But, you will also get replies saying that a PR/Tera is a waste, and you should just move on up to some flavor of one-ton axle.
There are plenty of threads discussing the merits of the various traction devices to read through. If you don't 'need' lockers, (it sounds like you do not?) a pair of truetracs is a very good, and very cost effective, choice. Again, plenty of threads on them to read through.
JK Junkie
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,697
Likes: 2
From: Grosse Pointe, MI
Toss some gussets on and sleeve or truss the front axle. Then keep an eye out for someone selling an already built and geared set of Rubicon axles. I've seen them go from $3500-$4800 (depending how new and how built). Then you can sell your axles for $1200. Being conservative, your net cost for built D44s is $3000. The Prorock housing may be slightly stronger than a built stock housing, but not enough to justify the extra $2000 (+$1250 to regear and lock the rear).
In TX and running 35s, you don't need a D60. You don't really need a PR housing (remember that everything else is the same unless you pay to upgrade it). If you want 4.10 gearing, you can buy new Rubi axles for $3000 for a set. Net cost is about $2000 after selling your axles. Gusset and sleeve it for $150 and be done.
In TX and running 35s, you don't need a D60. You don't really need a PR housing (remember that everything else is the same unless you pay to upgrade it). If you want 4.10 gearing, you can buy new Rubi axles for $3000 for a set. Net cost is about $2000 after selling your axles. Gusset and sleeve it for $150 and be done.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 345
Likes: 2
From: Texarkana, TX
Toss some gussets on and sleeve or truss the front axle. Then keep an eye out for someone selling an already built and geared set of Rubicon axles. I've seen them go from $3500-$4800 (depending how new and how built). Then you can sell your axles for $1200. Being conservative, your net cost for built D44s is $3000. The Prorock housing may be slightly stronger than a built stock housing, but not enough to justify the extra $2000 (+$1250 to regear and lock the rear).
In TX and running 35s, you don't need a D60. You don't really need a PR housing (remember that everything else is the same unless you pay to upgrade it). If you want 4.10 gearing, you can buy new Rubi axles for $3000 for a set. Net cost is about $2000 after selling your axles. Gusset and sleeve it for $150 and be done.
In TX and running 35s, you don't need a D60. You don't really need a PR housing (remember that everything else is the same unless you pay to upgrade it). If you want 4.10 gearing, you can buy new Rubi axles for $3000 for a set. Net cost is about $2000 after selling your axles. Gusset and sleeve it for $150 and be done.
I've read where guys just gusset and sleeve their D30 and run them pretty hard. If I were to gusset and truss it, then from my understanding the weak link is the ring and pinion due to it being smaller in the D30. As far as buying someone's built rubicon axles, a big concern in my mind is how rough did they run them, what kind of shape are they in, was anything stressed but hasn't broke just yet.
Right now, I'm just exploring all my options and the prices associated with them.
JK Junkie
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,697
Likes: 2
From: Grosse Pointe, MI
I see your point and I may go that route. I just hadn't decided yet and I don't have all of my pricing done yet.
I've read where guys just gusset and sleeve their D30 and run them pretty hard. If I were to gusset and truss it, then from my understanding the weak link is the ring and pinion due to it being smaller in the D30. As far as buying someone's built rubicon axles, a big concern in my mind is how rough did they run them, what kind of shape are they in, was anything stressed but hasn't broke just yet.
Right now, I'm just exploring all my options and the prices associated with them.
I've read where guys just gusset and sleeve their D30 and run them pretty hard. If I were to gusset and truss it, then from my understanding the weak link is the ring and pinion due to it being smaller in the D30. As far as buying someone's built rubicon axles, a big concern in my mind is how rough did they run them, what kind of shape are they in, was anything stressed but hasn't broke just yet.
Right now, I'm just exploring all my options and the prices associated with them.
Figure out what gearing you want first. Lets say you want 4.10. It would be cheaper to buy a new front Rubicon crate axle. You can get one for $1700 or so and sell your front for $600-$700. Now you are regeared, locked, and have a D44 for just over $1000. Makes no sense to regear and lock a D30 at a greater expense. With 35s, 4.10s would work great.
JK Newbie
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: OkC, OK
I was just in the same boat you are in....weighed out all the options. I called Marcus at River City Offroad - The Wheelin Man's Friend and after working with him I ended up buying a PR44 Unlimited (non rubicon diff) with ARB air locker, 5.13 yukon gears Synergy Ball joints and to keep costs down, I went with the newly available but not yet advertised Ten factory 32 spline axle shafts. Assembled and Shipped $4700
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 345
Likes: 2
From: Texarkana, TX
I was just in the same boat you are in....weighed out all the options. I called Marcus at River City Offroad - The Wheelin Man's Friend and after working with him I ended up buying a PR44 Unlimited (non rubicon diff) with ARB air locker, 5.13 yukon gears Synergy Ball joints and to keep costs down, I went with the newly available but not yet advertised Ten factory 32 spline axle shafts. Assembled and Shipped $4700
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JK Jedi
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 4,482
Likes: 2
From: Neenah, Wisconsin
Ten factory will also work... They arent really apples to apples though. Rcv is a better shaft
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 345
Likes: 2
From: Texarkana, TX
From my research the RCV shafts are considered the best. However, if the Ten Factory shafts are good quality, strong, will work with the PR44 housing, and save me a good bit, then I may look at going that route. Might would help out on funds for other components like OBA for an ARB locker or something else. Thoughts on this?