I am needing to replace my front driveshaft as i found today that the boot is torn and grease everywhere and was researching different brands but coming across either oem flange style or a yoke replacement style. Not sure if one is preferred for certain applications. Could someone please inform me of what i am needing or best application for my jeep so i can order one asap? I have an '08 2dr rubicon with a 2.5" rk flex lift with 35" tires.

 

You can replace the boot. But itll get torn again. I ordered mime from noethridge 4x4 with a 1310 ujoint. It has worked perfect

 

The shafts that come with the flange that bolts to OEM yokes are great but I've heard that is
A weaker setup as opposed to going with the new yokes that go on pinion and T-case.
Kinda funny that even JE-Reel doesn't recommend their own OEM flange style reading
On there web site ?..Hmm...

 

It is no weaker to attach a new driveshaft to the stock flange. Here are two good reasons to keep the stock flange:

1. The pinion nut holding the flange on is also the nut used to set the pinion preload (amount of pressure on the pinion bearing). Contrary to what you may hear, it is very important that if you replace the yoke, you reset the pinion preload. That process requires that you drain the diff, pull the axle shafts from the diff, and then measure the current pinion preload (as they are all unique to the gear setup). Once you do that, you replace the yoke, and then set the pinion preload to the specified higher value that the service manual calls for. The actual torque range for the pinion nut is anywhere from 140 ft lbs to values well over 200 ft lbs. The preload itself is measure in inch pounds (you need to find a really nice torque wrench to do it). Preload from the factory is around 15 in lbs I believe.

Can you chance it and torque the new yoke down to 160 ft lbs? Or some other method? Sure. Will it work? Maybe. Some don't have any immediate known issues, while others burn up their pinion bearing in 1000 miles.

2. The flange protects the u joint from eating rocks. A standard yoke will let the joint get fed.

I have never heard of a flange adapter fail on a JK. It is essentially the same as the OEM design.

 

thanks for all who replied!

So there is:
1 vote to replace boot
1 vote for yoke
1 vote for flange

Sounds like a flange style would be better suited for me and easier to install. Really dont want to tear apart the axle to replace a driveshaft if i dont have to, but I would if necessary.

 

Yeah I hear what your saying Invest, just going from my experience . When I got ready to replace my
Front shaft I was going to go with OEM bolt on flange setup. I talked to some of the mechanics at the
Shop I do business with and they steered me to go with the new yoke style. It definitely is more involved
Procedure for sure. To each their own though I guess......

 

Thanks for the info, like the OP I'm keeping an eye on my front drive shaft. Any suggestions on after market flange style replacement choices?

Cheers

 

I have a j.e reel with the oe flange adaptor and like it a lot!

 

I'm a fan of Adams. Fair price, high quality, and you call directly and talk to the man himself and then they make to order. I think Adams and Tom Woods will both tell you that there is no weakness to the flange adapter style and that it is a myth.

 

When the adapter style first came out there was some concern about the thickness of the adapter, which moves the joint further out away from the pinion bearing and causes slightly steeper angles on the driveshaft. But this style has been used for years now and we haven't been flooded with talk of mishaps.

A pic from Tom Woods website. Adapter - left, no adapter - right.