Artec Truss Installation
I'm going to be adding the artec armor kit this weekend. For those who have done this, I was wondering how important do you feel it is to pre-heat and post-heat the cast section of the front axle? I have the means, but feel a little uneasy about heating it. Any other tips are also appreciated.
Thanks,
Gary
Thanks,
Gary
It really isn't necessary to weld to the cast section. You risk cooking the seals as well. Lastly, using regular MIG isn't going to produce a strong weld. Sure, you pre and post heat are perfect, it will hold.
If you're determined to weld to cast, TIG with ni55 or 99, or use a high nickel mig wire such as the one from crown. You done need much heat with those and they make solid welds.
Too much heat and you can crack the cast.
If you're determined to weld to cast, TIG with ni55 or 99, or use a high nickel mig wire such as the one from crown. You done need much heat with those and they make solid welds.
Too much heat and you can crack the cast.
I just did mine a few weeks ago. I didn't use heat (tried using propane torch but didn't get hot enough) but I did put some downward pressure on the axle tubes and wrapped it up over night to make sure it cooled slowly. I had some great looking welds - until it came to the welding the cast. Especially trying to weld the 1/8" sections.
Also - if you're welding on a new trackbar bracket, be sure to cut the old one off before welding on the truss. I didn't, and it was a pain.
Also - if you're welding on a new trackbar bracket, be sure to cut the old one off before welding on the truss. I didn't, and it was a pain.
Last edited by sea bass; May 22, 2015 at 06:39 AM.
Oh - and if you have a rubi - you're gonna have issues if you remove the plunger thingy. The instructions tell you to remove the electrical sensors - one is a plunger that is hooked over a thin ring that moves in and out to indicate when your front end is locked.
I had to re-pull my axles, pull my carrier partially out, and fish that puppy in there with an piece of wood keeping the plunger open until I was able to put the carrier back into place. It was super fun.
I had to re-pull my axles, pull my carrier partially out, and fish that puppy in there with an piece of wood keeping the plunger open until I was able to put the carrier back into place. It was super fun.
Oh - and if you have a rubi - you're gonna have issues if you remove the plunger thingy. The instructions tell you to remove the electrical sensors - one is a plunger that is hooked over a thin ring that moves in and out to indicate when your front end is locked.
I had to re-pull my axles, pull my carrier partially out, and fish that puppy in there with an piece of wood keeping the plunger open until I was able to put the carrier back into place. It was super fun.
I had to re-pull my axles, pull my carrier partially out, and fish that puppy in there with an piece of wood keeping the plunger open until I was able to put the carrier back into place. It was super fun.
Understand that no matter what, you're going to lay way more weld than is needed. Look at the stock frame side track bar brackets and think about how much leverage they experience constantly. Just avoid the cast and use minimal heat near the locker connections. There's just no need to over weld. Shoot, if you lay some legit tack welds on the truss, you could lift the jeep up by the truss with a crane.
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Thanks for the tips. You were right. I felt that I did not weld as much as they instructed and it was still overwelded. Was a little concerned because I come from a racing background where we weld on rear axles to induce camber. It really doesn't take much. Took it slow but did C's and LCA skids also. Lift goes on tomorrow along with 37's.


