Currie rear 60 vs Dynatrac Rear 60
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: United States
Currie rear 60 vs Dynatrac Rear 60
Hopefully by Julyish I will be ordering a rear 60 for my jku. I have narrowed my choices down to currie or dynatrac. I do not have the money for a full float and dont plan on going bigger than 37s because its a DD. My question is why is the Dynatrac an extra 1500 (other than the high clearence diff). Is there something I am missing? If not it seems like its a no brainer to go Currie. Does anyone have any personal experience with the Currie?
Cost: 5100 +Tax
Dynatrac Semi Float 60
ARB
4.88
35 Spiline
1350 Yoke
Cost: 3600 +Tax
Currie Semi Float 60
ARB
4.88
35 Spiline
1350 Yoke
Cost: 5100 +Tax
Dynatrac Semi Float 60
ARB
4.88
35 Spiline
1350 Yoke
Cost: 3600 +Tax
Currie Semi Float 60
ARB
4.88
35 Spiline
1350 Yoke
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: United States
JK Junkie
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,697
Likes: 2
From: Grosse Pointe, MI
Two comments.
1. A couple local club members on 37s went semi-float 60s end of last year. One has gone through two axle shafts, the other one axle shaft. Bent flanges, etc. Honestly, the rear JK 44 is a very solid axle. It is unlikely that you would ever have R&P issues with it. While you have a bit more strength in the 60, it isn't what you think. You can pick up a full float Ultimate Dana 60 for the same price. Use some adapters up front to get the correct bolt pattern to match.
2. I just looked at a build with a Currie and realized what I view as a couple drawbacks. The rotated diff while nice in the rocks, has a couple issues. First, it is a weaker design in terms of the case minimizing gear deflection. Blown R&P's on the RJ 60 are not all that uncommon. Second, if you run a 3 link rear or ever plan for anything using a truss, it is an ugly solution as the truss has to be removable (how else will you get the diff cover off and be able to service it). Yes, lots of people do it, but I would never trust four 1/2" bolts to hold a truss to an axle.
1. A couple local club members on 37s went semi-float 60s end of last year. One has gone through two axle shafts, the other one axle shaft. Bent flanges, etc. Honestly, the rear JK 44 is a very solid axle. It is unlikely that you would ever have R&P issues with it. While you have a bit more strength in the 60, it isn't what you think. You can pick up a full float Ultimate Dana 60 for the same price. Use some adapters up front to get the correct bolt pattern to match.
2. I just looked at a build with a Currie and realized what I view as a couple drawbacks. The rotated diff while nice in the rocks, has a couple issues. First, it is a weaker design in terms of the case minimizing gear deflection. Blown R&P's on the RJ 60 are not all that uncommon. Second, if you run a 3 link rear or ever plan for anything using a truss, it is an ugly solution as the truss has to be removable (how else will you get the diff cover off and be able to service it). Yes, lots of people do it, but I would never trust four 1/2" bolts to hold a truss to an axle.
JK Freak
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 775
Likes: 32
From: Colorado
This^. One of the Dynatrac guys told me on the QT a JK D44 housing is just fine up to about 6,500 pounds curb weight. Not many reports of failures considering the abuse they take. Swap in a quality set of shafts and go. Might consider getting the plug welds for the tubes drilled & re- welded if you see any of them cracking.
JK Jedi
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 4,482
Likes: 2
From: Neenah, Wisconsin
This^. One of the Dynatrac guys told me on the QT a JK D44 housing is just fine up to about 6,500 pounds curb weight. Not many reports of failures considering the abuse they take. Swap in a quality set of shafts and go. Might consider getting the plug welds for the tubes drilled & re- welded if you see any of them cracking.
