I utilized the provided rigid harness which includes a relay. I wired the blue wire from the harness that would normally go to their switch and spliced it to the white with orange stripe wire from the factory fog light wiring. I then spliced both black ground wires and didn't use the red wire that would normally illuminate the switch. Splices were soldered and heat shrink tubed. Mounted the relay near the battery and connected the rigid harness to the positive and negative terminals on the battery. They turn on however when driving they cut on and off. I double checked that everything was tight and secure and the problem cannot be duplicated by wiggling the wires anywhere along the harness etc.
I called Rigid and they advised I purchase and install "warning cancellers" which appear to be anti flicker modules just before each light. Has anyone else had to do this when running the led lights through a relay? If I have to use the warning cancellers could I just ditch the rigid harness all together and power the d2's right from the factory wiring? Any suggestions are welcome.

Thanks
Sean...

 

I ran a single 10" bar directly to the stock wiring without issue on my 2010.

 

If the relay isn't mounted where it gets airflow it may be getting hot.

Sent using smoke signals

 

It shouldn't be getting hot as this will happen as soon as I back out of my driveway.

 

I wonder if the 12+ models are different in this respect. I have read of several people who have either ran it with a relay or directly without issue. I asked Rigid about it and they couldn't explain it either...

 

I used Inspired Engineering cube lights. Plug n' play. No issues whatsoever. That's not what you want to read, but more info.

 

The fog light wires are from the canbus, so the computer sends signals through the wires to act as a built in test. The relay in yours could possibly be making the computer think there's a short and is cutting the power off. I have Inspired Engineering's plug and play cubes on my Jeep. They have the PWM inside the light to stop the flicker, and there's no relay. I also have a set of Rigid DOT fogs wired separately to a switch in the cabin that I use on the street so I don't blind people. Wiring it separately is the only way to guarantee the light will work the way it should.