I did do a search and didn't fine the answer to my question. I have a 15 2 door Willys and am looking to add 35s. I wheel it once a month or so and hot rocks and mud. I have decided on the Rock Krawler lift and wanted some feedback on the 2.5 max kit. It seems complete but the website shows the potential need for a front driveshaft. Anyone running the lift without? Any issues? I won't have heavy bumpers right away so will probably net 3.5" from the lift initially.

 

I needed a front DS (JKU though), despite others seeming to be able to do without. I'm guessing you'll need it for sure with a 2dr.

The only down fall of this kit is it only includes lower control arms. If you decide to go to 3.5" down the road, you'll need the uppers and a different set of lowers too. If you're confident that you'll be pleased with 2.5", you'll be fine.

 

No one can say whether you will or will not have issues with driveshafts. Since you have a 2door, you will need to crawl underneath and check them both as part of regular maintenance - not just the front. If you want to minimize the chance of a problem, don't disconnect. Don't flex it offroad. Load it down so you get less lift from the coils. Get shorter shocks. Run limit straps. And just plain ole be lucky.

How's that for a clear yes or no answer...

 

Thanks. I don't think I can avoid flexing with the wheeling I do on rocks. Come to think of it I don't want to avoid it. May just add aftermarket ds to be covered.

 

Thanks. I think I am happy with the 2.5 but who knows down the road. I guess that's the cost of starting with the smaller lift. I was also looking at the flex over the max to allow me to get the rear uppers and lowers separately to allow better pinion angle but it looks like the flex is not progressive springs.

 

The front driveshaft is the same on a 2 door and a 4 door. Seems implied otherwise.

Run the stock shafts until they fail. You can also just use exhaust spacers that they all sell and that lowers the crossover. That's the issue on the 2012+ JK. The runner boot of the shaft will contact the exhaust, melt, all the grease goes. Then the joint dies quickly thereafter.

 

No need to replace until you find a problem, it's possible that they will be ok. Or it's possible that you will lose both of them.

The big boots in the middle of the shafts don't matter much, as long as the middle of the front shaft isn't contacting the skid or exhaust or corner of the transmission pan. But keep an eye on the joints at both ends of the tcase. When you see one slinging a bunch of grease and drying out, you can decide if it's time to repair or replace. If/when you move to an aftermarket shaft, you will probably also want to adjust the pinion at the same time.

 

Thanks. Makes sense. Thoughts on starting with their flex lift over the max and adding rear upper and lower control arms together? I have read the max kit rear lowers aren't long enough to resolve the pinion angle once adding the uppers.

 

Yup. Run what you brung until it fails.

 

I have a 4 door (14 rubicon) with RK 2.5" lift and am running shocks up front that extend to 27.5" at full drop even with an aftermarket front drive shaft it rubs on the exhaust cross over. I initially went with the rancho exhaust mod but then the cross over hung down below the cross member so I went with the new drive shaft. If you run shorter shocks would not be a problem most likely.