Yesterday I put new front brake pads on the rig. Drove to the store and smelled brakes burning and smoke coming from left front wheel. There is no leaking from the break lines. Went home bleed all four brake lines, brake fluid was a little dark to. greased the slides where the pads set, checked the metal clips for damage, no signs. Piston pushes out when brakes are applied when caliper is off the rotors. both mounting bolts float freely. Reinstalled caliper and bolted it down. When I applied the brake peddle and then released it while the front end was jacked up I could not spin the front left wheel freely. put the tire back on and could rotate the tire a little easier but it wasn't moving a freely as the right front tire. I think the left front caliper might be bad or the brake line. Any other Ideas? Input is appreciated!

 

You write "both mounting bolts slide freely." Do you actually mean the caliper slide pins? I just had one on my rear caliper fail with exactly the symptoms you describe. Bought replacement caliper slide pin set (enough for one caliper) for $12 at O'Reilly's (you can find cheaper online). Removed old slide pins--took big vice and bigger hammer for frozen one--cleaned out the hole in the caliper--lubed new caliper with CRC brake grease--reassembled--works great! Don't drive too much with it overheating or you'll be replacing the rotor, too.

 

Yep did this to me about four months ago. Time for a new caliper my friend.

 

You are correct Mark I meant to say "caliper slide pins" they do move freely. I did drive it to work today being it is my daily driver. However, the left front wheel isn't smoking anymore but there is still a slight brake smell coming from the wheel. Not nearly as bad when I first put them on but I am driving very carefully.

 

Update, Jacked up the front pulled the tire after work and did the following.

1) Got the caliper to stick
2) Opened the bleeder
3) Then the caliper was free after applying inward pressure.

If the caliper is still stuck, you have a bad caliper while applying inward pressure.
If the caliper is free, you have a bad hose.

This is after watching 3-4 videos and reading other car forums. No stores had JK hose in-stock so I ordered a new hose and I'll be installing it tomorrow, will post an update to confirm the steps above.

 

Replacing the pads puts the piston in an area in the bore that it hasn't been in for a long time. If the fluid hasn't been flushed every couple of years or so, there will be corrosion in the bore where the piston now wants to be.
This can lead to a dragging brake after a recent pad change.

 

Thanks for the input ronjenx! I haven't replaced the brake line yet because the part house here in Mass sucks just like the rest of the state! So im still waiting to see if it is the brake hose causing a check valve effect. If the hose isn't the issue I'll replace the caliper.

 

New caliper, new hose, and bled the brake fluid... equals success! Thanks to all that help!

 

The right front brake assembly on my son's 2012 JK Sahara was overheating intermittently. We replaced the pads, rotor, and caliper thinking this would fix the issue. As it turns out, the problem was the flexible brake hose between the caliper and the connection to the rigid brake line. The hose had collapsed internally at the crimped bracket that attaches to the spring base. Here are the photos:

On the left is the normal opening of the hose and on the right is the cross section of the hose crimped in the OEM clamp.

This is a photo of the OEM clamp and hose cut down the middle to show the crimped hose that caused the issue.