Got all the parts to build up my 1 tons (Zip locker, 538 gears, bearings seals etc) and shipped off my passenger side knuckle to weaver fabrication to get fitted with a high steer arm. Now I need to figure out something for a drag link and tie rod. I am thinking Chevy 1 ton TRE, but that means I need to drill out and ream the pit man arm, steering arm and both knuckles at the tire rod connection (Using tie rod in the stock location). I think one knuckle has a larger hole then the other, so hopefully its still able to be drilled out or I can find some sort of insert for it.

Do you guys know what size ream and TRE I need? Recommend a kit to go with? Should I go with heims joints instead?

Thanks for your help!

 

The super duty TREs are huge. You won't be able to team them for GM ends. And since the ford are far stronger, you'd be better with those. EMF makes after market ford joints. Bad ass joints, but really expensive. I assume you are using a high steer arm? WFO Concepts will your pitman arm for a GM end for $15. Then run a GM end at the high steer.

If you don't keep the factory tie rod, you'll need a custom one made. There are a ton of ways to solve the TRE situation. You can still out for heims and a guy makes spacer inserts (the opening of the TRE hole is .93"). You can use EMF joints. You can drill out and use tapered inserts for GM ends (I think, not sure how that would work on the passenger knuckle).

Really, take a look at my thread on JK Owners. I wrote up a whole thread on everything available for that front axle. Should answer everything.

 

I used heims. I see no problem with heims and no need to ream anything or send parts out. As said though you may need a reducer. I did on mine and its not a sterling.

 

I used heims as well. There is a guy on Pirate who made conical spacers for the super duty axle. Easiest way to go, imo.

 

I am leaning towards heims too. Did you have to drill out the taper for a bolt or did you run an insert? What size heims and hole? Did you run heims on the draglink with a high steer arm?

Thanks for all your help guys.

 

Both knuckles need to be drilled for the 3/4" heim bolt. I went high end and got a tie rod from bullet proof steering. They include tapered fittings. Or, if you go with standard heims, then get the shims from the guy on pirate. PM me and I can get you his info.

I used GM drag link ends for my drag link and had WFO Concepts ream the pitman arm. I chose the Reid Racing knuckle for the high steer on the passenger side and went with a WFO Concept high steer arm. The guy on pirate who makes the spacers, also will machine the stock knuckle for high steer (send your in and he sends one that is machined and has the arm on it).

I chose the GM ends for two reasons. One, I do still street drive mine and wanted to keep the steering a little forgiving (zero flex in a heim). Second, the GM end actually had more clearance and I need every inch I could get. I'm also running hydro assist, so those GM ends will last forever.

 

I drilled a 3/4 on knuckles and a 3/4 on pitman if i recall. I am running a reducer to fit a 5/8 bolt on the pitman. I have heims on each side.

 

What do you think about this solutions?

Tapered GM TRE insert

Drill a 1" hole and weld in these taperd GM TRE inserts? Now this could work ok for the tie rod, but could i use these for the drag link and pitman arm?

 

Are you planning to use high steer? I'll tell you now, that you will regret it if you don't. There will be far too much angle on the drag link. I have high steer and still don't like the angle. Also, the drag link is much longer than the track bar, so you want both of those to be as flat as possible so you are out of the arc.

That is a MASSIVE axle. I personally would not down grade the tie rod to GM ends. Honestly, why not just keep the factory tie rod? There is a Ford end from a van that you can swap in on the passenger side so that you don't have to attach the drag link there.

You need to use GM drag link ends at a min. If you are not going high steer, then you will most likely need some sort of high angle end.

If you want to really keep it cheap, reuse the drag link on the axle. Again, just pull the pitman arm and send it to WFO Concpets. $5 for a USPS flat rate box, they charge $15 to ream it. Sort of a no brainer vs. using a sleeve. Also, I felt that the pitman arm on the JK does not have enough material to be drilled out to 1" and sleeved.

There are endless options. If you want cheap, resuse the tie rod. Change out your passenger knuckle for the Weaver high steer. He'll ream the arm for whatever you want. Then do the same to the pitman. If you use heims, all you have to do is drill the piman (but use a step bit).

 

Yes sir, my knuckle is already at weaver getting converted to high steer now.

I ended up ordering rough stuffs high angle drag link ends and a reamer to get the proper taper on the pitman arm and high steer arm. I also orderd the gm tre's with the 7/8 inserts. Not sure if I will need the inserts or not but figure I would get um just incase. Hopefully I can make it all work, guess we shall see.