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4.56 or 4.88

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Old Sep 1, 2015 | 08:23 PM
  #1  
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Default 4.56 or 4.88

I know this has been covered MANY times but I have not found any threads with the same build as mine. I have been recommended both 4.56 and 4.88 from local shops. Adding DANA rear gears and Yukon front with an ELocker in the rear. Here are my specs, please help as this is a lot of money to spend for me to regret later.

2007 2DR X 3.8L
3.21 Manual
35 KM2 (34") NOT GOING ANY LARGER
2" Lift
Keeping the build light weight
My DD that sees a lot of highway time

I am just worried that 4.88 is going to be too low for the interstate.
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Old Sep 1, 2015 | 08:31 PM
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A manual with 35s really like the 4:56 setup. That's what I would recommend
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Old Sep 1, 2015 | 08:31 PM
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Being a manual with a smallish 35, the 4.56 will be plenty.
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Old Sep 1, 2015 | 09:48 PM
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I don't know if you have or even seen this but here you go. I would echo what others are saying. I will be doing the same by the end of the year on my 2010 jk.
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Old Sep 2, 2015 | 01:42 AM
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Originally Posted by jstikel3
I know this has been covered MANY times but I have not found any threads with the same build as mine. I have been recommended both 4.56 and 4.88 from local shops. Adding DANA rear gears and Yukon front with an ELocker in the rear. Here are my specs, please help as this is a lot of money to spend for me to regret later. 2007 2DR X 3.8L 3.21 Manual 35 KM2 (34") NOT GOING ANY LARGER 2" Lift Keeping the build light weight My DD that sees a lot of highway time I am just worried that 4.88 is going to be too low for the interstate.
I have an 08 4door stick with 4.88's first I had 33's and it was definitely over-geared but I knew I was going to up to 35's but on 20" wheels got the 4.88 last summer and love it it feels perfect for for the 35's.
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Old Sep 2, 2015 | 04:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Mad Dog 21
I don't know if you have or even seen this but here you go. I would echo what others are saying. I will be doing the same by the end of the year on my 2010 jk.
Yes I have looked at this chart several times. That's why I am surprised I was even suggested 4.88 with a 34" tire on a light 2 DR build.
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Old Sep 2, 2015 | 06:44 AM
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Have you considered doing 4.10s from a Rubicon and the 4:1 transfer case too?

You are looking at 4.56 & 4.88 for better trail action, but that might be better served from a t-case swap. I haven't priced it out, but it might be the cheaper route too. ymmv.

Of course 4.88 gears with a 4:1 t-case will give you crazy crawling.
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Old Sep 2, 2015 | 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Almost There
Have you considered doing 4.10s from a Rubicon and the 4:1 transfer case too? You are looking at 4.56 & 4.88 for better trail action, but that might be better served from a t-case swap. I haven't priced it out, but it might be the cheaper route too. ymmv. Of course 4.88 gears with a 4:1 t-case will give you crazy crawling.
I have thought about that but have not come across a set that fits my needs. And even with 4.10s it would still be slightly underpowered. The 4.1 Rock Tracs seem to be going for ~1000. I will probably eventually pick one up but not right now. I'm 6 months into my 1st marriage so I don't want to press the budget too much.
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Old Sep 2, 2015 | 07:12 PM
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The gears really should be for road performance. The transfer case is the right way to go if you want better off road performance
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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 05:11 PM
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I recently did 4.56 on a light two door 2010 manual. Had 3.73 on 35" Mud Grapplers. I thought long and hard about this and I'm glad I didn't go 4.88. This is my daily driver and while I don't have expressways on my usual routes they're all over, and have to be taken to get to anywhere sweet for Jeeping. 4.56 feels great especially after being under geared and is spot on IMHO for DD that still gets wheeled often. I'm sure 4.88 would have me revving too high on expressways and probably more than I'd like at 55-60 too.

if you're around metro Detroit I'll let you drive it.
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